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ASDP Standards of Quality

Member of the Custom Tailors and Designers Association of America

This model is used because it is the universally accepted model for a basic cut (fitting shell) in garment design. In evaluating all other clothing, the basis set forth in these standards can be adapted to any style. Please refer to the garment illustrations when reading the Fitting Standards. The overall custom fit of the garment should result in clothing that fits, looks and feels comfortable, and allows the body to move naturally.

UPPER BODY AND ARMS - (see fig. A, page 24)

Center Back and Center Front Seam or Fitting Lines -

1. The center back and center front seams are perpendicular to the floor.
2. The center back and center front seams are centered on the body.
3. The lengthwise grain is perpendicular to the floor and the crosswise grain is parallel to the floor.

Side Seam lines -

1. The side seams appear perpendicular to the floor.
2. The side seams divide the body into pleasing proportions.
3. The side seams appear as straight lines.

Darts -

1. Darts point toward the fullest part of the curved area being accommodated.
2. The darts end approximately 1 inch (2.5cm) short of the fullest part of the bust contour. In fuller busts, this measurement may vary.
3. Darts usually appear as straight lines on the body.
4. Darts are sewn to conform the fabric to the shape of the body surface.
5. Darts have no fabric strain, bubbles, or wrinkles, especially at the dart tip area.

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