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Our Tailors is Visiting your city this month! Get fitted by our Expert Master Tailors! Order Custom made Suits, Custom Tailored Shirts, Blazers, Coats more. Hand Made in latest styles & colors you love! Customized by our expert craftsmen for the perfect fit. See our Tailoring Trunkshow schedule or Make an Appointment with the Tailor today!

Custom Tailoring Fabrics Glossary

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A term coined by Christian Dior to define a dress, coat or top that is close at the shoulders and gently flared at the hemline, resembling the letter A in design.
A-Line Dress
Form-fitting bodice that flares out from the waistline to a full skirt.
A-line Shape
A body style having a close-fitting top and a flared bottom.
A-Line Skirt
A skirt that is fitted at the waist and flares out in an A-line or tulip shape at the hem.
Accordion pleats
Narrow folded pleats shaped like the bellows of an accordion.
A cuff that can be adjusted in size.
A plain necktie collar which has spread points. The spread shortens the points. This collar also has slots for inserting collar stays. An Ainsley collar is a standard necktie collar that has a 45 inch to 60 inch angle at the tie space (place closest to skin at the neck - above the neck button). This is the most common type of collar used for shirts that are worn with neck ties.
Airsoft Finish
As the name implies, a finish giving a fabric a softer hand.
Exotic grains, long-wearing leather. Most are imported and are very expensive.
Fiber from an animal resembling a llama, it can be used in pile fabrics for insulated coats.
Fibre: True alpaca is a hair fibre from the Alpaca animal, a member of the Ilama family of the South American Andes Mountains. Also imitated in wool, wool and alpaca, rayon, mohair and rayon or cotton and a cotton warp and alpaca filling also synthetics - e.g. orlon. Weave: Various weaves, knits, and weights. Characteristics: Fine, silk-like, soft, light weight and warm. Has much luster and resembles mohair. If guard hairs are used it is inclined to be boardy. It is strong and durable. True alpaca is expensive so often combined with other fibres or imitated by other fibres - e.g. orlon. Uses: Men's and Women's suits, coats and sportswear, linings and sweaters. Some fine alpaca used for women's dresses. Also in pile or napped fabric for coating.
American Sleeve
A no sleeve design with a large diagonal cut from the base of the neck to the bottom of the armhole.
One yard and nine inches of warp thread
Angled pocket
See slanted pocket.
Fibre: Hair from the angora rabbit. Often blended and mixed with wool to lower the price of the finished article or to obtain fancy or novelty effects. Weave: Various weave and knitted. Characteristics: Very fine, light weight, extremely warm and fluffy. Has a tendency to shed and mat with time. Must be designated as angora rabbit's hair. Uses: Used mostly in knitwear - gloves, scarves, sweaters, etc. for children and women. Also blended with wool in dress goods and suits to give a softer feel.
Aniline Calfskin
Calfskin leather that has been dyed with aniline, an oily liquid. This process gives the leather a soft feel.
Antique Brass
Brass that has been darkened by the use of chemicals.
Antique Wash
A process that gives the fabric a worn, slightly washed out look.
Stitching in which a design is created by sewing pieces of fabric (or other materials) together onto a fabric background.
(Ape - lei - Kay) - A design applied to another surface, frequently with a decorative stitch.
Green peach tree branch with a string fastened from end to end to form a bow, used to remove small particles of dirt and debris from cotton and to unravel matted cotton to a soft fiber; an Osage orange branch bow used as an alternative to a green peach tree branch for the same purpose; bow, arch
Design often used for knitwear and hosiery: two or three colors in a diamond shaped design.
An opening in a garment through which the arm is inserted.
Fibre: Cotton, silk, wool, rayon, synthetics, and blends. Weave: Plain, twill, or rib, background often has a small design either acquard or dobby made with warp floats on surface giving a raised effect. Characteristics: Design is often in two colours and raised. The name was derived from original fabric, which was woven with a small interlaced design of chain armor and used for military equipment during the Crusades. Uses: a rich looking dress fabric, draperies, or upholstery
Art Linen
Fibre :Linen. Weave: Plain. Characteristics: It is woven with even threads that are especially good for embroidery. It is very easy to "draw" the yarns for drawn thread work. Comes bleached, or coloured. Has a soft finish. Uses: All kinds of needlework, lunch cloths, serviettes, etc.
High, round neckline with long scarf attached at center back, brought around, and one end looped over the other, ends hanging loose. Also called a stock neckline or tie neck.
Fibre: Wool. Sometimes made with a mohair warp to add lustre and curl to the surface. Poor grades often have cotton warp or back. Fur: Luxuriant fur, curly and wavy. Most popular shade is brown. It is a caraculs lambskin forms the Astrakhan section of Russia. Weave: Good grades woven with a pile weave and cut. Cheap grades are knitted. Characteristics: Resembles astrakhan fur. Deep pile with curled loops. Durable and warm. Uses: Coats, cloaks, trimmings and accessories.
Styles constructed of Lycra/spandex or other fabrics that promote movement and breathability.
A flap front briefcase where the flap closes halfway down the front, with a top handle.
One yard and nine inches of warp thread
Baby Doll
A short nightgown whose hem terminates just below the hip. A baby doll is longer than a crop top, but shorter than a chemise.
Back Drape
A length of material attached either at the shoulder or the waist that flows over the back to floor length. In some cases, it’s removable.
Back Yoke
A fitted or shaped piece at the top of a skirt or at the shoulder of various garments.
Back yoke
A function of design and fit. The back yoke is also known as a sire. The deeper the "v" of the back yoke on a pant, the more of a curve in the seat.
Badger Bristles
Short, stiff coarse hairs from the badger, used in our shaving brush.
Ballerina Neckline
A low neckline that is often paired with strapless or spaghetti-strapped dresses.
Ballerina/Ballet Flat
A flat shoe with a thin, skid-proof sole, often with a drawstring or elastic top line.
Balloon sleeve
A larger version of the puff sleeve. Also called a bouffant sleeve.
A closed-throat shoe with a laced front.
Band Collar
A collar having just the neckband, but no collar attached to it.
Traditionally, red or blue large cotton square folded into a triangle and tied around the neck. Has distinctive white or black print.
Bandeau/Tube Top
A band-shaped bodice.
Bar Stripe
A straight stripe or band that is much longer that it is wide.
Bar tacks
Closely spaced stitches that connect to form a band or a bar that reinforces stress points on jeans such as corners of front and back pockets, seams and buttonholes.
Fibre: Worsted, silk, rayon or silk or rayon warp combined with cotton or wool. Weave: An indistinct twill, plain or novelty. Usually a twilled hopsack weave. Characteristics: Fine textured, slightly pebbled surface. Appears to be cut off-grain. Very hard wearing. English in origin and originally made as a mourning cloth. It is still often dyed black. Uses: Women's suits and coats, men's evening wear, dress goods in light fibres. Also used in silk for cravat cloth and after five wear.
Barrel Cuffs
Single lined cuffs with a regular button and buttonhole closing.
Baseball Neckline
A collar similar to that of the uniform worn by a baseball player.
Variation of a plain weave fabric in which two or more yarns are worked in the warp and weft, used mostly in shirting.
Basque Waist/V-Waist
A dropped waist that starts at, or just below, the natural waistline, and dips in the center creating a "V" shape.
Bateau neckline
Also called a boat neckline; cut in shallow curve from shoulder to shoulder.
Bateau/Boat Neck
A high, wide, straight neckline that runs straight across the front and back, meeting at the shoulders; it has the same depth in the front and back.
Batik Print
Indonesian way of dyeing fabric in which waxed areas resist the dye and unwaxed areas are penetrated by it.
Fibre: Cotton, also rayon and wool. Weave: Plain Characteristics: Named after Jean Baptiste, a French linen weaver. Light weight, soft, semi-sheer fabric which resembles nainsook, but finer. It belongs to the lawn family; almost transparent. It is made of tightly twisted, combed yarns and mercerized finish. Sometimes it is printed or embroidered. In a heavier weight, it is used for foundation garments and linings in a plain, figured, striped, or flowered design. Considered similar to nainsook but finer and lighter in weight. Now usually made of 100% polyester distinguished by slubs in filling direction.
An implement used in the washing of clothing, wedge-shaped with a handle extending from the larger side of the wedge, carved from a single piece of wood
Fibre: Silk. Weave: Crosswise rib (plain or twill weave). Characteristics: Has brightly coloured stripes in the filling direction. Often black warp. The colour effects are usually startling or bizarre. Mostly produced in India. Name derived from the Bajadere dancing girl of India, dedicated from birth to a dancing life. The Bayadere costume includes the striped garment, a flimsy scarf or shawl, jeweled trousers, spangles, sequins, anklets. Uses: Blouses, dresses, after 5 wear.
Beaver Cloth
Fibre: Wool. Also sotton and napped on both sides - double faced. Weave: Twill and very heavily napped, and fulled. Characteristics: Originally English. Made to simulate beaver fur. Thick, gives excellent wear and very warm - resembles kersey. Length of nap varies with the cloth and its uses. Has a luxurious look. Has the longest nap of all the napped fabrics and usually somewhat silky. Often light coloured fibres added to nap to increase shine. Uses: Mostly used for warm coats. Cotton beaver is used for caps, shoe linings, work cloths, Maritime clothes and sports clothes where work is required.
Bedford Cord
Fibre: Wool or worsted but worsted is more popular. Also made in cotton, silk and rayon. Weave: Lengthwise rib. Sometimes stuffing emphasizes the ribs. Characteristics: Both Bedford, England and New Bedford, Mass. claim the name. Very pronounced rib. Very firm construction. Takes much hard wear. Have various qualities and weights. Uses: Suiting, coatings, riding breeches, uniforms and upholstery.
A fabric resembling the color of the beech tree (which has a smooth, gray bark).
Belgium Linen
Linen fabric made in Belgium
Bell Cuff
See circular cuff.
Bell Sleeve
Smooth fitting at armhole; flares to hem edge like a bell.
Bellow pocket
Patch type pocket with inverted or box pleat to allow for expansion; used on jackets, shirts, and safari style garments; also called safari pocket.
Belt loop
A small piece of fabric used on jeans and trousers, placed around the waistband to hold a belt up.
Bemberg Lining
Bemberg is a brand name of rayon fabric, of the finest quality. It is used for our suit and sportcoat linings, and is the softest, finest lining available
Bengal Stripe
Colorfully striped fabric shipped to world markets from Bengal, India; used for sportshirts, pajamas, and more.
Fibre: Silk, wool, rayon, synthetics, cotton. Weave: Crosswise rib, warp faced. Characteristics: First made of silk in Bengal, India. Ribs are round and raised. Often has wool or cotton dilling in the ribs, which doesn't show. Difficult to make bound buttonholes in it. Has a tendency to slip at the seams if too tightly fitted. Grosgrain and Petersham is bengaline cut to ribbon widths. The cloth is usually 40" wide. Uses: Coats, suits, millinery, trims, bouffant dresses with a tailored look, mourning cloth, draperies. A French term for bengaline made from a silk or rayon warp and worsted filling which is given a hard twist.
Bertha collar
Deep, flat collar that falls from neckline to shoulder opening at front or back.
Besom Pocket
A pocket sewn inside a garment with access through a welted slit-type opening.
Besom Pockets
Pocket with a stitched fold on both the upper and lower sides.
Bias Cut
Cut diagonally across the grain of a fabric. Used to create garments that follow the body curves closely.
Bias ruffle
Edging made from circular pieces of fabric; smooth at seam edge, fuller at hem edge.
A brief, close-fitting two-piece bathing suit.
Bikini Panty
Panties with full coverage in the front and back with high-cut sides.
Another name for a type of a man's wallet.
Fabric characterized by a small geometric pattern with a center dot resembling a bird's eye.
Fibre: In cotton and Linen or blend of rayon staple and cotton. Weave: Usually dobby Characteristics: Very soft, lightweight, and absorbent. Woven with a loosely twisted filling to increase absorbency. Launders very well. No starch is applied because the absorption properties must be of the best. Material must be free from any foreign matter. It is also called "diaper cloth" and is used for that purpose as well as very good towelling. Also "novelty" birdseye effects used as summer dress fabrics.
A plaid pattern in hunter/royal/black.
Blake Construction
Fancy name for the way upper leather is sewn to the sole of the shoe. It denotes a reinforced, well constructed shoe - similar to Goodyear construction.
Blanket Cloth
Fibre: Wool, worsted, cotton, blends, synthetics. Weave: Plain or twill. Characteristics: Soft, raised finish, "nap" obtained by passing the fabric over a series of rollers covered with fine wire or teasels. Heavily napped and fulled on both sides. Nap lose and may pill in laundering. Named in honor of Thomas Blanket (Blanquette), a Flemish weaver who lived in Bristol, England in the XIV century, and was the first to use this material for sleeping to keep warm. Uses: Bed covering, overcoats, robes.
Blazer Stripe
A fabric pattern with wide-spaced thin stripes.
Shoes having the tongue and vamp cut in one piece and the quarters lapped over the vamp and laced together for closing.
Bluff Edge
When the edges of a garment are not topstitched.
A warp box
A bobbin; a bobbin, spool, reel; a bobbin, spool
The torso area of a woman’s dress.
Body Briefer
A girdle/bra that extends from shoulder straps to the thighs.
Bolivia (Elysian)
Fiber: Wool. Sometimes contains alpaca or mohair. Weave: Twill- usually 3 up and 3 down. A pile weave (cut) with a diagonal pattern. Characteristics: Pile face, which varies in depth. Soft and has a velvety feel. Usually piece dyed. Usually has lines or ridges in the warp or in a diagonal direction on one side. Comes in light, medium and heavy weights. Uses: Cloakings and coatings and some suits.
Fibre: Usually have silk or rayon warp and worsted filling. Imitations are made in cotton. Weave: Plain or twill. Characteristics: Very fine English fabric. Name comes from Latin "bombycinum" which means a silk in texture. It is one of the oldest materials known and was originally all-silk. Uses: Infants wear. When dyed black it is used in the mourning cloth trade
Refers to trousers or jeans that are cut below the belly button and flare slightly from the knees to the ankles to accommodate any type of footwear.
Boston Bag
An overnight bag.
A fabric woven from curled or twisted yarn so as to produce small loops on the surface, giving it a kinky appearance.
Fibre: Wool, also in rayon, silk, cotton, linen, blends, hair fibres. Weave: Any weave, knit. Characteristics: From the French for "buckled" or "ringed". A drawn out or ringed, looped yarn is used to give it a kinky appearance at intervals. Made in a variety of weights. Boucle yarns are usually in both the filling and the warp. Fabrics are usually springy to handle on account of the highly twisted yarns used to achieve the boucle effect. Often ravels easily. Uses: Coats, suits, dresses, sportswear.
An uneven yarn made with threads of varying looseness for a luxurious, nubby texture.
A skein of yarn
A projecting nub or "button," achieved through hand-manipulation of the weft thread usually placed on coverlets at the intersection of warp and weft cordons; button
Box Pleat
A two-sided fold in the garment resembling a panel, with the edges facing opposite directions.
Box Pleat
Two folds of fabric brought together to form a pleat.
Two folds of fabric brought together to form a pleat.
Shorts, undergarments, or swimwear that have a close fitting leg that reaches to the top of the thigh.
Bra Cami
A fitted top, usually a cotton/spandex knit, with spaghetti straps and a built-in shelf bra.
Woven or knitted material used for trimming or binding.
An alloy consisting essentially of copper and zinc in variable proportions.
Breton Stripe
A fabric pattern with very widely-spaced thin stripes.
Bridle Leather
Type of leather that is used in traditional Saddlery ( saddles, whips etc.)
Cut to the waist, these panties feature full to medium coverage.
Plain, closely woven fabric, lighter than poplin, finely textured.
Fibre: Cotton and silk, and rayon. Very different than wool broadcloth. Weave: Plain weave and in most cotton broadcloths made with a very fine crosswise rib weave. Characteristics: Originally indicated a cloth woven on a wide loom. Very closely woven and in cotton, made from either carded or combed yarns. The filling is heavier and has less twist. It is finer than poplin when made with a crosswise rib and it is lustrous and soft with a good texture. Thread count ranges from high quality 144 x 6 count down to 80 x 60. Has a smooth finish. May be bleached, dyed, or printed; also is often mercerized. Wears very well. If not of a high quality or treated it wrinkles very badly. Finest quality made from Egyptian or combed pima cotton - also sea island. Uses: Shirts, dresses, particularly the tailored type in plain colours, blouses, summer wear of all kinds.
Broadcloth Habotai
Same as China Silk except heavier; wrinkles less; good for shirts weight: medium (10 mm) up
Fibre: Cotton brocade often has the ground of cotton and the pattern of rayon and silk. Pattern is in low relief. Weave: Jacquard and dobby Characteristics: Rich, heavy, elaborate design effect. Sometimes with coloured or metallic threads making the design usually against a satin weave background. This makes the figures stand out. The figures in brocade are rather loose, while in damask the figure threads are actually bound into the material. The pattern may be satin on a twill ground or twill on a satin ground. Often reversible. The motifs may be of flowers, foliage, scrollwork, pastoral scenes, or other designs. The price range is wide. Generally reputed to have been developed from the Latin name "brocade" which means to figure. Uses: All types of after 5 wear, church vestments, interior furnishings, and state robes.
Fibre: Silk, rayon, cotton, and synthetics. Weave: Jacquard - double or backed cloth. Characteristics: Originally supposed to be an imitation of Italian tooled leather - satin or twill pattern on plain or satin ground. It is recognized by a smooth raised figure of warp-effect, usually in a satin weave construction, on a filling effect background. True brocatelle is a double weave made of silk and linen warp and a silk and linen filling. Present-day materials may have changed from the XIIIth and XIVth Century fabrics, but they still have the embossed figure in the tight, compact woven warp-effect. While brocatelle is sometimes classed as a flat fabric, it shows patterns, which stand out in "high relief" in a sort of blistered effect. Uses: Draperies, furniture, coverings and general decorating purposes as well as all kinds of after 5 wear.
A spike spindle used for spinning thicker yarns; a spit or stringer (for fish) in the form of a forked branch.
Our exclusive high performance, natural double-stretch wool. It provides exceptional comfort, ease of movement, and resists wrinkling. The midweight, all-wool fabric is soft and supple to the touch, and perfect for year-round wear.
Broomstick Dress
A dress (or skirt) characterized by numerous pleats and crinkled material.
- a spike spindle used for spinning thicker yarns; a spit or stringer (for fish) in the form of a forked branch
Brushed Brass
One type of textured brass having a matte finish produced by running a wire brush across the surface.
Fibre: Cotton, some in linen, synthetics. Weave: Plain Characteristics: Cheap, low-textured, loose weave, very heavily sized and stiff. Also, 2 fabrics are glued together; one is open weave and the other much finer. Some is also made in linen in a single fabric. Also called crinoline book muslin or bookbinding. Name from Bokhara in Southern Russia, where it was first made. Uses: Used for interlinings and all kinds of stiffening in clothes, book binding, and for millinery (because it can be moistened and shaped). Used to give stiffness to leather garments not as stiff and often coloured is called "tarlatan". Softens with heat. Can be shaped while warm.
Buffalo Check
Design of big squares or blocks, in fairly heavy fabrics. It is used for shirts and outerwear.
To polish metal with a coarse or smooth cloth.
Fabric with an alternating solid and sheer design, often in a floral or animal print.
A sleeveless, strapless top or dress held in place by boning, elastic or stretch fabrics. It is designed to help shape and enhance the bust line.
Butterfly Bowtie
Bow tie with flared ends, designed for a small knot.
Button Down Collar
Collar points are buttoned-down to the shirt.
A knitted stitch used that resembles a twisted cable. It gives the garment a textured appearance, and is used in sweaters.
Cadet collar
See Chinese collar.
An insignia bearing a staff with 2 entwined snakes and 2 wings at the top, symbolizing a physician.
A large hollow gourd used to hold cotton fiber during seeding and carding; a utility bowl for fibers; a gourd
Leather from a young calf, it is smooth-surfaced, fine-grained, and durable. It does not scuff easily, stretches only moderately, and cleans well.
Fibre: Cotton Weave: Plain - usually a low count. Characteristics: Originated in Calcutta, India, and is one of the oldest cottons. Rather coarse and light in weight. Pattern is printed on one side by discharge or resist printing. It is not always fast in colour. Sized for crispness but washes out and requires starch each time. Designs are often geometric in shape, but originally elaborate designs of birds, trees, and flowers. Inexpensive. Similar to percale. Very little on the market to-day, but the designs are still in use on other fabrics and sold as "calico print". Uses: Housedresses, aprons, patchwork quilts.
Fibre: Cotton, also linen. Weave: Plain Characteristics: Soft, closely woven, light. Either bleached or piece dyed. Highly mercerized, lint free. Calendered on the right side with a slight gloss. Lower qualities have a smooth bright finish. Similar to batiste but is stiffer and fewer slubs. Launders very well. Has good body, sews and finishes well. Originally made in Cambria, France of linen and used for Church embroidery and table linens. Uses: Handkerchiefs, underwear, slips, nightgowns, children's dresses, aprons, shirts and blouses.
Camel Hair
Fiber from a camel, ranging in color from natural to brown. It can be used alone or blended with wool. It comes from the underside of the camel, and is lustrous and very soft.
Camel Hair
Fibre: Hair from the camel. Sometimes blended with wool or imitated in wool. Weave: Twill or plain. Characteristics: Underhair is best. It is lightweight, lustrous and soft. It ranges from a light tan to a brownish-black colour. Usually left its natural tones but can be dyed-usually navy and some red. It has quite a long nap and is warm. Better grades are expensive. Sometimes blended with wool to reduce the cost and increase the wear. All wool camel hair is not as lustrous and is spongy. Can have either a rich nap or a flat finish. Wears fairly well, particularly if blended. Uses: Coats, women's suits, sports coats, sweaters, some blankets and put in some very expensive oriental rugs.
Camisole neckline
Top of dress or top cut straight across and above bust with straps over shoulders.
A fitted top with spaghetti straps that can be worn alone or as a layering piece.
Camp Pockets
Pockets that are sewn to the outside of the garment, usually squared off and characterized by seaming.
Candlewick Fabric
Fibre: Cotton - also wool. Weave: Plain Characteristics: An unbleached muslin bed sheeting (also called Kraft muslin) used as a base fabric on which a chenille effect is formed by application of candlewick (heavy plied yarn) loops, which are then cut to give the fuzzy effect and cut yarn appearance of true chenille yarn. May be uncut also. (True chenille is a cotton, wool, silk, or rayon yarn which has a pile protruding all around at slight angles and stimulates a caterpillar. Chenille is the French word for caterpillar). Uses: Bedspreads, drapes, housecoats, beachwear.
Candy Stripe
Equal-width stripes of a color and white on fabrics used for shirts and sportswear.
A spool
Canton Flannel
Fibre: Cotton Weave: Four-harness warp-faced twill weaves. Characteristics: The filling yarn is a very loosely twisted and soft and later brushed to produce a soft nap on the back, the warp is medium in size. The face is twill. Heavy, warm, strong and absorbent. Named for Canton, China where it was first made. Comes bleached, unbleached, dyed, and some is printed. Uses: Interlinings, sleeping garments, linings, coverings, work gloves.
Strong, closely-woven plain weave fabric, usually made from cotton, linen or hemp. Originally used to make sails.
Fibre Linen, cotton. Weave: Plain. Characteristics: Mostly rugged, heavy material made from plyed yarns. Has body and strength. It is usually manufactured in the grey state but some is dyed for different uses. Almost the same as duck in heavier weights. Has an even weave. Ada or Java canvas used for yarn, needlework, almost like mesh. Uses: Tents, sails, mailbags, sacks, covers, etc. Finer types used for embroidery and paintings. Hair canvas is an interfacing material in various weights.
Cap Sleeve
A very short sleeve that hangs over the edge of the shoulder without extending along the underside of the arm.
Cap Sleeve
A small, short sleeve that sits on the shoulder, either forming a stiff cap or falling on to the arm to provide minimal coverage.
Cap sleeve
A short sleeve that resembles a cap covering the shoulder.
Cap Toe
A separate piece of material covering the toe section of a shoe; used on oxford-type shoes.
Cape collar
A cape style oversized collar.
Cape sleeve
A loose sleeve resembling a hanging cape.
Caplet sleeve
A short cape sleeve covering half the arm and the upper bodice.
Capri Pants
Close-fitting women's pants that end above the ankle.
Capri Pants
Three-quarter length pants designed to hit mid-calf – first popularized on the Isle of Capri.
Cards, used for carding, aligning, fibers; a tool purchased from commercial producers; a carding brush; a card, a tool used to comb wool, cotton, etc.
Refers to any sweater or jacket that buttons down the front. It can have a round or v-neck.
Cardigan Jacket
A usually collarless sweater or jacket that opens the full length of the center front.
Cardigan neckline
See y shaped neckline.
Cargo Style
Pants or shorts with patch pocket or bellows pocket with a flap (usually a button flap).
Carpenter Pants/Shorts
Five-pocket pants characterized by a hammer loop – a stretch of material connecting the outside seam to the back pocket.
Cascade pleats
Three dimensional pleats that assume the form of a small waterfall.
Wool from the undercoat of the long-haired Kasmir goat, which is woven or knitted into soft fabrics that are luxurious to the touch. It is a fine, close weave.
Cashmere (Kashmir)
Fibre: From the Kashmir goat, a hair fibre found in Kashmir India, Tibet, Iran, Iraq, and South west China. Often mixed with wool or synthetics to cut costs and improve the wear. Weave: All weaves but mostly plain or twill. All knits. Characteristics: Fibre is cylindrical, soft and silken. More like wool than any other hair fibre. Has a very soft silky finish very light in weight. Doesn't stand up to hard wear on account of extremely soft downy finish. True colour is brownish, but can be dyed any shade. Comes in different weights. Uses: Knitted into sweaters for men and women, also women's dresses.
Cavalry Twill
Fibre: Woolen or worsted. Weave: 63 twill weave - right hand twill. Characteristics: Pronounced narrow and wide wale, in groups of 2. Strong rugged cloth. Quite elastic. Similar to U.S. elastic but elastic is smoother in rib, feel and effect, - (made of worsted yarn and a firmer weave). Also resembles tricotine but tricotine is much finer with a double diagonal. Uses: Riding habits, ski wear, sportswear, and uniform fabrics.
The wood of a tree of the pine family noted for its fragrance and durability.
Center Vent
A split in the center lower part of a garment (jacket or skirt).
Chain belt
Metal or plastic links hooked together around the waistline.
Challis (Chalys)
Fibre: From the Kashmir goat, a hair fibre found in Kashmir India, Tibet, Iran, Iraq, and South west China. Often mixed with wool or synthetics to cut costs and improve the wear. Weave: All weaves but mostly plain or twill. All knits. Characteristics: Fibre is cylindrical, soft and silken. More like wool than any othe hair fibre. Has a very soft silky finish; very light in weight. Doesn't stand up to hard wear on account of extremely soft downy finish. True colour is brownish, but can be dyed any shade. Comes in different weights. Uses: Knitted into sweaters for men and women, also women's dresses and children's dresses and blouses, comforters, kimonos, neckties, and sportswear. In slacks or shorts it would have to be lined.
Woven cotton, polyester, or rayon fabric with a colored warp and white filling; used for shirts and other apparel.
Fibre: Cotton Weave: Plain weave or dobby designs on a plain-weave ground. Characteristics: Made with a dyed warp and a white or unbleached filling. Both carded and combed yarns used. Has a white selvedge. Some woven with alternating white and coloured warp. "Faded" look. Has very soft colouring. Some made with stripes, checks or embroidered. Smooth, strong, closely woven, soft and has a slight lustre. Wears very well, easy to sew, and launders well. If not crease resistant, it wrinkles easily. Originated in Cobrai, France, where it was first made for sunbonnets. Uses: Children's wear, dresses, shirts and blouses, aprons, all kinds of sportswear.
Chamois Cloth
Fibre: Cotton Weave: Plain Characteristics Fabric is napped, sheared, and dyed to simulate chamois leather. It is stiffer than kasha and thicker, softer and more durable than flannelette. Must be designated as "cotton chamoise-colour cloth". Uses: Dusters, interlining, storage bags for articles to prevent scratching.
Fibre: Cotton, alos rayon and nylon. Weave: Knitted, double knit construction. Characteristics: A fine, firmly knit fabric. Has a very short soft nap. Wears well. Nylon chamoisette is more often called "glove silk". Uses: Gloves.
Chanel Style
Anything that is elegant, simple and easy to wear. Little black dresses and suits. Multi-chain jewelry. Named after Coco Chanel, the French couturière.
A lightweight silk, cotton, or manmade fiber dress fabric which is soft and drapes well. It is smooth, has a semi-lustrous satin face and a dull back.
Crepe backed satin; rich luster; drapes beautifully Weight:- medium; 16 or higher
A manmade, shiny, silk-like fabric.
A variety of patterns, including gingham, tattersall, houndstooth, plaid and checkerboard.
Fibre: Cotton Weave: Plain Characteristics: Originally used as a wrapping material for pressing cheese. Loosely woven, thin, light in weight, open in construction, and soft. Carded yarns are always used. It is also called gauze weave. When woven in 36" widths it is called tobacco cloth. When an applied finish is added, it is called buckram, crinoline, or bunting. Uses: In the gray cloth, it is used for covering tobacco plants, tea bags and wiping cloths. Finished cloth is used for curtains, bandages, dust cloths, cheap bunting, hat lining, surgical gauze, fly nets, food wrapping, e.g. meat and cheese, costumes and basket tops.
Chelsea collar
Flat collar formed from a v-neckline; long, pointed ends at front; popular during 1960s and revived in 1980s.
A woman's straight, loose dress.
Usually a short nightgown hemmed below the hip but above the knee. Held up by thin spaghetti straps, the gown should fit snugly at the bust and upper torso and fall loosely and flow flatterringly past the hips.
Chenille Fabric
Fibre: Cotton and any of the main textile fibres.Weave: Mostly plain weave. Characteristics: Warp yarn of any major textile fibre. Filling of chenille yarns (has a pile protruding all around at right angles). The word is French for caterpillar and fabric looks hairy. Do not confuse with tufted effects obtained without the use of true Chenille filling. Uses: Millinery, rugs, decorative fabrics, trimmings, upholstery.
Plain-back, slightly shaped overcoat, in either a single-breasted fly front or a double-breasted style. It may also have a velvet collar.
Fibre: Wool originally and mostly made from wool from the Cheviot sheep but today also made of blends, spun synthetics, crossbred and reused wools. Weave: Twill (modern version sometimes plain). Characteristics: Very rugged, harsh, uneven surface that does not hold a crese and sags with wear. Resembles serge but is much more rugged and coarse and will not shine because of the rough surface. Often sold as a homespun but true homespun has a plain weave and very heavy. Also sold as a tweed. Uses: Coats, suits, sportswear, sport's coats.
A transparent sheer fabric in a plain weave. Extremely light in weight but very strong, it usually has a soft finish.
Fibre: Silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics Weave: Chiffon (French for "rag") Fibre: Silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics Weave: Plain Characteristics: Lightweight, sheer, transparent. Made with very fine, tightly twisted yarns. The tightly twisted yarns could be either in the filling or the warp or both. It is very strong, despite filmy look. Wears very well. It is very difficult to handle when sewing and it is best to baste the pieces over tissue to make it easier. It has slightly bumpy look. It is best suited to shirring, draping, gathering, tucking, etc., because it is so limp. If made in a straight sheath style, it should be underlined with very firm fabric. e.g. faille taffeta. Uses: After 5 wear, blouses, scarves.
A lightweight, plain-weave, sheer fabric made with very fine, tightly twisted yarns. It is very strong, despite its filmy look.
China Silk
Fibre: Silk. Weave: Originally hand woven in China of silk from the Bonabyx mori. Very soft and extremely lightweight but fairly strong. Irregularities of threads caused by the extreme lightness and softness are characteristic of the fabric. Uses: Mostly for linings and underlinings and could be used for blouses.
Fibre: Cotton or wool, and some manmade and synthetics. Weave: Sateen or twill construction with extra fillings for long floats. Characteristics: Does not resemble true chinchilla fur. Has small nubs on the surface of the fabric which are made by the chincilla machine. It attacks the face and causes the long floats to be worked into nubs and balls. Cotton warp is often used because it cannot show from either side. Made in medium and heavy weights. Very warm and cozy fabrics. Takes its name from Chinchilla Spain where it was invented. Uses: In cotton, used for baby's blankets and bunting bags. In wool, for coats. Dark shades in wool are most popular, particularly navy and black.
Chinese collar
A band or stand collar that stands straight at the neck edge, about 1 inch high, and opens at center front. Also called mandarin, cadet, Mao or Nehru collar.
Chinese sleeve
See French sleeve.
Fibre: Cotton Weave: Twill (left hand) Characteristics: Combined two-ply warp and filling. Has a sheen that remains. Fabric was purchased in China (thus the name) by the U.S. Army for uniforms. Originally used for army cloth in England many years before and dyed olive-drab. Fabric is mercerized and sanforized. Washs and wears extremely well with a minimum of care. Uses: Army uniforms, summer suits and dresses, sportswear.
All cotton twill fabric used for trousers and sportswear.
Fibre: Cotton Weave: Plain Characteristics: Has bright gay figures, large flower designs, birds and other designs. Also comes in plain colours. Several types of glaze. The wax and starch glaze produced by friction or glazing calendars will wash out. The resin glaze finish will not wash out and withstand drycleaning. Also comes semi-glazed. Unglazed chintz is called cretonne. Named from the Indian word "Chint" meaning "broad, gaudily printed fabric". Uses: Draperies, slipcovers, dresses, sportswear.
Chukka Boot
Boot that extends above the ankle and fastens with a lace through two eyelets. It has a rubber or leather sole.
Cigar Clipper
An instrument for clipping or snipping off the end of a cigar.
Cigar Cutter
An instrument used for cutting a cigar, shaped like scissors.
Cisele Velvet
A velvet with a pattern formed by contrast in cut and uncut loops.
Clark Fit
Slim fit, plain front trouser.
A casual shoe on a wood base, usually closed toe with open back.
A dress styled like a coat, usually with a front buttoning from the neckline to the hemline.
Collar Stays
Thin brass or plastic strips that run down the inside of the collar to the points to give it a flat appearance; can be permanent or removable.
Column Skirt/Straight Skirt
Also referred to as a pencil skirt, this skirt is a straight line with no flare or fullness at the hem or waistline.
Combed Cotton
Combing is a process that removes all the short fibers, making it stronger and finer. It is a higher-quality fabric.
Concealed Snap/Velcro®/Button Placket
A slit in a garment where closures are hidden.
Convertible Collar
A rolled collar that can be worn open or closed. Sewn directly to the neckline.
Coolmax® is a remarkable fiber has the ability to wick moisture away from the skin and dry quickly. Soft, lightweight and very breathable.
Cord Stitching
On a man's moccasin, IT refers to the leather lace overcast stitching on the upper part of the shoe.
Leather from the hindquarters of the horse. It is non-porous, durable, resistant to scuffing, very expensive, and long-wearing.
A durable cotton pile fabric with vertical ribs or wales--the less ribs per inch, the wider the wale.
Fibre: Cotton, rayon, and other textile fibres. Weave: Filling Pile with both plain and twill back. Characteristics: Made with an extra filling yarn. In the velvet family of fabrics. Has narrow medium and wide wales, also thick n'thin or checkerboard patterns. Wales have different widths and depths. Has to be cut all one way with pile running up. Most of it is ashable and wears very well. Has a soft lustre. Uses: Children's clothes of all kinds, dresses, jackets, skirts, suits, slacks, sportswear, men's trousers, jackets, bedspreads, draperies, and upholstery.
Leather that has been processed with a vegetable dye.
Cotton Flake
Flake yarns are variations of the slub yarns. The yarn varies in thickness and softness, giving it a textured appearance.
Cotton Poplin
Medium weight durable textured fabric made with cotton or cotton blends.
Covered Heel
A heel that is covered with leather or man-made materials that match the color and texture of the vamp.
Fibre: Woolen or worsted, also cotton and spun rayon.Weave: Twill Characteristics: Made with two shades of colour e.g. (Medium and light brown). The warp is 2 ply (1 light; 1 dark) adn filling 1 ply (dark or same as warp). Very rugged and closely woven. Has a mottled or speckled effect. First used as a hunting fabric. Has a clear finish and hard texture. Wears exceptionally well and has a smart appearance. Light in weight. Uses: For overcoating for both men and women. It is also made waterproof and used a great deal in rain water.
Leather made from the hides of cows.
Cowl Neck
A neckline featuring a piece of material attached to a garment at the neck, which may be used as a hood or draped loosely in a swag from shoulder to shoulder at the front neckline or back.
Fibre Linen. Weave: Plain. Characteristics: It is very rugged and substantial in feel. Come in white or natural shades or could be dyed, printed, striped, or checked. The yarn is sstrong, irregular in diametre but smooth. Has a fairly good texture. Uses: Towelling, suitings, dresses, coats.
Fibre: Worsted cotton, wool, silk, man-made synthetics. Weave: Mostly plain, but various weaves. Characteristics: Has a crinkled, puckered surface or soft mossy finish. Comes in different weights and degrees of sheerness. Dull with a harch dry feel. Woolen crepes are softer than worsted. If it is fine, it drapes well. Has very good wearing qualities. Has a very slimming effect. Uses: Depending on weight, it is used for dresses of all types, including long dinner dresses, suits, and coats.
A light crinkled fabric woven of any various fibers.
A fabric characterized by a crinkled, puckered surface or soft mossy finish. Comes in different weights and degrees of sheerness.
Crepe De Chine
Silk warp and crepe twist silk filling 25 x 22. More ends than picks per inch. Has a soft hand and considerable lustre. Made of raw silk or rayon. It is easy to manipulate and handle. Very long wearing. Most of it launders well. It is fairly sheer. Could be piece dyed or printed. Has a slight rippled texture. Heavy crepe de chine is called "Canton crepe" which is slightly ribbed and now mostly made in rayon. Weight:- 14 mm popular but inferior; 16 mm is good blouse weight, heavier available
Crepe effect appears in direction of the warp and achieved by alternate S and Z, or slack, tension, or different degrees of twist. Originally a wool crepe but now made of silk and rayon. It is much stouter and more rugged than the average crepe. Has a wavy texture with the "waves" running in a lengthwise direction. Mostly used for prints. Uses: Dresses and ensembles.
Fibre: Cotton, linen, rayon. Weave: Plain or twill. Characteristics: Finished in widths from 30 to 50 inches. Quality and price vary a great deal. The warp counts are finer than the filling counts which are spun rather loose. Strong substantial and gives good wear. Printed cretonne often has very bright colours and patterns. The fabric has no lustre (when glazed, it is called chintz). Some are warp printed and if they are, they are usually completely reversible. Designs run from the conservative to very wild and often completely cover the surface. Uses: Bedspreads, chairs, draperies, pillows, slipcovers, coverings of all kinds, beach wear, sportswear.
Crew Neck
A round neck with ribbed banding that fits close to the base of the neck.
Crinkle Cotton
Cotton that is treated to give it a rich, pliss texture in the warp that requires no ironing.
A technique for making a garment or shoe with lacelike effect, involving a hook and yarn.
Cropped Pants
Pants cut to a length just above the ankles.
Cropped Top/Jacket
Hem is cut just above the waist.
Crow's Foot Pattern
A triangular-shaped pattern resembling the foot of a crow.
Waistband of solid or patterned silk or other fabric, made with or without pleats, for wear with a dinner jacket.
Cut Through Pockets
Pockets that allow easy access through both the shell and lining of a coat to your clothing pockets.
A double-ring closure where the strap pulls through both rings, then back through second ring to fasten; borrowed from fastenings on horse bridles and saddle straps.
Fibre Linen, silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics, wool, worsteds. Weave: Figured on Jacquard loom. Characteristics: Originally made of silk, that came to us from China via Damascus. In the XIII Century, Marco Polo gave an interesting tale about it. It is one of the oldest and most popular cloths to be found today. Very elaborate designs are possible. Cloth is beetled, calendared and the better qualities are gross-bleached. Very durable. reversible fabric. Sheds dirt. The firmer the texture, the better the quality. Launders well and holds a high lustre - particularly in linen. - Price range varies a great deal. There are two types of damask table cloths: 1) Single damask table cloths: construction. Thread count is usually around 200. 2) Double damask has an 8 shaft satin construction with usually twice as many filling yarns as warp yarns. This gives a much greater distinctness to the pattern. Thread count ranges from 165 to 400. - The quality of both depends on the yarn used and the thread count. - If the same quality and thread count are used, single is better than double because the shorter floats are more serviceable and the yarns hold more firmly. Double damask with less than 180 thread count is no good for home use
A fold of fabric stitched to a point at one or both ends, giving shape to a garment.
When a garment is cut very low at the neckline, revealing shoulders, back and bosom.
Decollate neckline
(den - co -eh- toy)-French adjective for garment cut very low at neckline revealing shoulders, neck and back, sometimes part of bosom. Also called a plunging neckline.
Skin of a female deer or antelope, usually in white or natural shades, but sometimes in colors.
Demi Bra
A half bra that leaves the top of the bustline exposed; perfect worn with low-cut tops or dresses.
Fibre: Cotton Weave: Twill - right hand - may be L2/1 or L3/1. Characteristics: Name derived from French "serge de Nimes". Originally had dark blue, brown or dark grey warp with a white or gray filling giving a mottled look and used only for work clothes. now woven in bright and pastel colours with stripes as well as plain. Long wearing, it resists snags and tears. Comes in heavy and lighter weights. Uses: Work clothes, overalls, caps, uniforms, bedspreads, slipcovers, draperies, upholstery, sportswear, of all kinds, dresses and has even been used for evening wear.
Diamond Neck
A diamond-shaped cutout that fastens at the front or back neckline.
Partial collar or neckline worn under a shirt, blouse or dress to accent the other garment or give additional warmth.
Fibre: Cotton Weave: Plain weave with a crosswise or lengthwise spaced rib or crossbar effect. Characteristics: A thin sheer with corded spaced stripes that could be single, double or triple grouping. Made of combed yarn adn is 36" wide. Has a crisp texture which remains fairly well after washing. Resembles lawn in the white state. It is easy to sew and manipulate and launders well. Creases unless crease-resistant. May be bleached, dyed, or printed and often printed with a small rose-bud design. It is mercerized and has a soft lustre. Uses: Children's dresses, women's dresses, and blouses, infant's wear, collar and cuff sets, basinettes, bedspreads, curtains, underwear. Has a very young look.
Dinner Jacket
Evening jacket for semi-formal or formal wear. It may be single or double-breasted, with lustrous facing on peaked lapels or shawl collar.
Made with a special loon that crates small, geometric figures Weight: - usually expensive fabric
Fabric with small figures woven in, such as dots, geometric designs, floral patterns, etc. They are found in shirt and tie fabrics.
A closely woven woolen worsted fabric with a slightly napped surface, used for sportswear and slacks.
Fibre: Wool and also rayon. Weave: A 5 or 8 harness satin weave. Rayon: Twill weave and napped on one side, or a small satin weave. Characteristics: Very smooth, lustrous surface made with a slight short nap very close and compact weave to look like fine leather. Weave not visible because of napping. Very high quality wool used. Needs care in handling. Medium weight. Uses: Women's suits and coats, and also in a lighter weight for dresses. Sportswear and riding habits for both men and women. Trousers and waistcoats for men.
Dog collar
See choker neckline.
Dolman Sleeve
Cut as an extension of the bodice, the dolman sleeve is designed without a socket for the shoulder, creating a deep, wide armhole that reaches from the waist to a narrowed wrist. Also called a batwing sleeve.
Dolman sleeve
A sleeve with a large armhole that narrows gently toward the cuff.
Domett Flannel
Fibre: Cotton Weave: Plain and twill Characteristics: Also spelled domet. Generally made in white. Has a longer nap than on flannelette. Soft filling yarns of medium or lightweight are used to obtain the nap. The term domett is interchangeable with "outing flannel" but it is only made in a plain weave. Both are soft and fleecy and won't irritate the skin. Any sizing or starching must be removed before using. Outing flannel is also piece-dyed and some printed and produced in a spun rayon also. Uses: Mostly used for infants wear, interlinings, polished cloths.
Fibre: Wool - also in rayons and cottons. Weave: Mostly plain but some in twill. Characteristics: Originally a homespun woven by the peasants in Donegal, Ireland. A rough adn ready fabric that stands much hard wear. Yarns are coarse with thick slubs and coloured nubs. Now made in other places as well - particularly England. Uses: Coats, heavy suits, sportswear. Has a tailored, sporty look
Dopp Kit
A men's travel size shaving/toiletry kit, with a zipper closure, side zip compartment, and inside pocket.
Dotted Swiss
Fibre: Cotton Weave: Plain weave for ground with a swivel, lappet or flocked dot. Characteristics: Dots could be a single colour or multicoloured. Placed regularly or irregularly on a semi-sheer usually crisp fabric which may or may not be permanent. First made on hand looms in Switzerland and some still is. It is made in 32" widths. The lappet is the most permanent. When hand woven with a swivel attachment the dots are tied in by hand on the back of the cloth. The ground fabric is usually a voil or a lawn. Uses: Children's and women's summer dresses and blouses, aprons, curtains, bedspreads. It is a young looking fabric.
Double Face Cloth
Overcoat material composed of two fabrics joined together with a binder yarn. Either side can be used as the face.
Double-bar Horizontal Repp
A stripe fabric pattern of two closely-spaced thin stripes, with one wide stripe in between.
Term applied to a jacket or coat in which the fabric overlaps by a few inches in the front. There are 2 vertical rows of buttons and a single row of buttonholes with a single button on the underside to secure the fabric on the inside.
A style of closure in which one edge of a garment overlaps another with a double row of buttons or other fasteners.
Double-face Satin
Yarn woven with two warps and one filling, to simulate a double satin construction. Has satin on both sides. Cotton filling is often used in cheaper qualities.
Double-Tee Top
A layered look with one T-shirt over another, usually connected.
Fibre: Cotton, wool, worsted, silk, rayon, and synthetics Weave: Circular or flat-needle bar type Characteristics: A two faced cloth, either face may be utilized as the rigth side. The fabric originated in Milan and Florence. Can be stabilized for shrinkage control and dry cleans satisfactorily.
Silk yarns made from the cocoon of two ilk worms that have nested toghether. In spinning, teh double strand is not separated so the yarn is uneven and irregular with a large diametre in places. Fabric is of silk made in a plain weave. The fabric is very irregular and shows many slubs - seems to be made in a hit and miss manner. It is imitated in rayon and some synthetics, and one such fabtic is called "Cupioni". Dupion yarns also used in shantung, pongee. Tailors very well.
The hang or fall of fabric when made into a garment.
Draped Bodice
An extra piece of material is draped over the bustline.
Drawstring forms gathered softness when pulled.
Drawstring neckline
Cord used to gather fullness either high or low on the neck; other names include peasant or gypsy.
Fibre: Cotton Weave: Twill. Left-hand twill. From top left to lower right. L2/1 or L3/1. Characteristics Closer, flatter wales that ganardine. Medium weight and course yarns are used. Also made in some other weights. Some left in the grey but can be bleached or dyed. When dyed a khaki colour it is known by that name. Uses: Uniforms, work clothes, slip covers, sportswear, and many industrial uses.
Dropped shoulder
An armhole seam that drops over and below the top of the shoulder 2-4 inches.
Dropped Shoulders
Characterized by the shoulder/sleeve seam falling off the shoulder.
An 8-12 shaft satin. It is a dress fabric. Very fine yarns are used, particularly in the warp with more ends/inch than picks. The material is string, has a high lustre, and texture, and it is firm. Usually 36" wide. Characterized by grainy twill on back.
Fibre: Cotton. Originally made in linen. Weave: Plain, but also crosswise rib. Characteristics: Also called canvas. Name originated in 18th Century when canvas sails from Britain bare the trademark symbol - a duck. Very closely woven and heavy. it is the most durable fabric made. There are many kinds of duck but the heavier weighs are called canvas. It may be unbleached, white, dyed, printed or painted. Washable, many are waterproof and wind proof. Made in various weights. Uses: Utility clothing in lighter weights, such as trousers, jackets, aprons. Also for awnings, sails, slipcovers, draperies, sportswear, tents, and many industrial uses
Duffel Coat
A heavy, usually woolen medium length coat with toggle fasteners and a hood.
Other related terms: dupion, douppioni, shantung; fabric containing slubs, uneven; forms when two silk worms make their cocoons at the same time thus joining together.
A long, open summer coat, with or without a button closure.
Fibre: Good quality wool. If made in cotton, is usually called suede cloth. Weave: Satin, 7 or 8 shaft. Characteristics: Close weave, brushed, singed, and sheared to conceal the weave. Has a smooth plush appearance resembleing a compact velvet. Similar to wool broadcloth but heavier and thicker. Has a good draping quality, soft and wears well if looked after. Spots easily and care must be taken when handling it. Back is often slightly napped also. Name derived from the French word "duvet" meaning "down". Uses: Women's coats, suits, and dresses, depending on the weight. Used a great deal in the millinery trade.
Elbow patch
A patch of fabric sewn over the elbow for reinforcement. Traditionally done in leather or suede.
Elliot Fit
Relaxed fit, pleat front trouser.
Leather treated with heat and pressure in a hydraulic press to give it a grained look.
Decorative stitching superimposed on fabric with contrasting thread; any design can be used.
A style that is designed with a high waist to create a flattering sweep.
Empire Bodice
A bodice that ends just below the bust, sometimes gathered.
Empire Seams
Seams that are sewn directly below the bustline.
Empire Waist
This waistline begins just below the bust.
A usually opaque substance applied by fusion to the surface of metal, glass, or pottery.
Broadcloth, chambray, madras, or other fabric having alternating warp yarn, usually one in color and one in white.
Involves the use of a machine to engrave geometric designs into metal.
English Moc Construction
Refers to the same piece of leather at the top of shoe is wrapped completely around & a sole is put on.
English Spread Collar
A plain "tennis" collar which has spread points. The spread, usually 4" or more, shortens the point.
Envelope Hem
A hemline open at the bottom with angular, overlapping flounces. Also applies to a shoe’s top-line detail, ie: envelope vamp.
Envelope pocket
Pocket is attached to outside of garment or accessory with flap and pleated sides; frequently used on handbags, luggage, and aprons.
Enzyme Washed
Use of a catalytic substance secreted by living organisms which brings about a chemical change in a fabric.
(ep-a-let) -A tab cut as part of shoulder and sleeve or a separate section; can also be used at hem edge for roll up sleeve.
Epaulet sleeve
The armhole line is extended up into the neckline creating an epaulet-like shape along the shoulder.
A strap stitched to or buttoned on the shoulder of a garment.
Any shoulder ornament, usually a button strap; often seen with braiding or other trim.
Eponge (Souffle)
Fibre: Wool, also rayon and silk. Weave: any weave - usually a novelty - plain warp, novelty filling or reverse. Characteristics: Derived from the French term eponge for "spongy". Very soft and spongelike in a variety of novelty effects with loose weave of about 20 x 20. Also known as ratine in cotton. Rayon and silk is soft, loose, and spongy, something like terry cloth. Does not have surface loops. Many stores now call eponge "boucle". Uses: Suits, dresses, coats, sportswear, and summer suits
Shoe with a flexible sole made of rope or rubber and a fabric upper. Originally worn as a bathing shoe.
Exposed zipper
A zipper sewn into a garment while leaving the teeth of the zipper visible.
Extended Waist
A waistband with an extended inner edge, usually with a button or hook to fasten on the inside. This provides for a smoother look.
A fabric punched with decorative holes embroidered with purl stitching.
Circular and decorative hole edged with close zigzag stitch.
Fabric Terms
There are many types of silks. Listed below are a few of the more popular ones found in the US. To assess a silk one needs to consider three factors. They are: Silk Type, Silk Weight, and Silk Weave. Silks of the same type might have different characteristics because of different weights or weaves. For example, Crepe de Chine, one of the most popular fabrics for women's blouses, come in a variety of weights. Generally speaking, we feel that a Crepe de Chine of a 14 momme weight is inferior and will not show off all the best characteristics of the fabric. Thus, we only carry a weight of 16 momme or higher in our ready-to-wear line. However, many department stores and especially discount stores will carry Crepe de Chine blouses of 14 momme. These blouses may be advertised as 100% silk (which they are) but will not perform satisfactory as a garment. Likewise, with the so-called washable silks. If they are made from an 8 or 10 momme weight fabric (usually China Silk), they will wrinkle easily and generally wear out rapidly. Silks are naturally strong and wrinkle resistant. If your silk garment does not have these characteristics check their weight or weave.
Fabric Weaves
Silks are woven fabrics. Fabric weave helps determine such characteristics as strength and durability or the fabric as well as beauty. Since silk is so strong naturally, less durable weaves may be used to achieve a particular look not capable in other fabrics.
Fibre: Silk or rayon. Weave: Figured weave or "burnt-out" finish. Characteristics: Faconne in French, means fancy weave. Has small designs all over the fabric. Fairly light in weight, and could be slightly creped. Background is much more sheer than teh designs, therefore the designs seem to stand out. Very effective when worn over a different colour. Drapes, handle, and wears well. Uses: Dresses, blouses, scarves, after 5, dressy afternoon and bridal wear.
Faconne Velvet
Patterned velvet made by burnt-out print process. The design is of velvet with background plain.
Fibre: Silk, rayon. Weave: Crosswise rib. Characteristics: Has a definite crosswise rib effect. Very soft material that drapes well. Finer than gros grain but in that family - ribs are also flatter than in grosgrain. Some belongs to the crepe family. It is rather difficult to launder. Will give good wear if handled properly. Has a lustrous finish. Uses: Dresses, blouses, soft evening purses, some dressy coats
Faille Taffeta
Made with a crosswise rib weave. Has a distinct rib effect and is usually quite heavy and firm.
Fair Isle
Sweater of an allover colorful design, originally hand-knitted on Fair Isle, off the coast of Scotland.
A French word meaning imitation or fake. Used most often in connection with gems, pearls, leathers, and furs.
Feather Edge
On a belt, it refers to edges that are not topstitched.
Fibre: Wool, reprocessed wool, reused wool, scrap fibre, can be mixed with other fibres, cotton, rayon. Weave: Not woven but felted. Characteristics: A very compact fabric in various weights and thicknesses. Has grain so can be cut any way. Needs no hemming or finishing, because it does not fray. Uses: Many industrial uses, such as: piano hammers and in the printing industry. Many novelties, such as: pennants, slippers, lining of many kinds, insoles, and toys. Hats and felt skirts
Fichu collar
An oversized collar. The collar employs a triangular piece draped over the shoulders.
Thread or yarn
Fine Wale
In a woven fabric, this refers to a rib or raised cord, as in corduroy.
Fine-Gauge Knit
A smooth sweater knit garment that has little or no texture.
Fishtail Train
Fitted around the hips and flares out from the knee to the hemline, longer in the back.
A silhouette that is close-fitting at the top, and spreads outward, or flares, at the bottom.
Fitted Point Sleeve
A long, narrow sleeve that tapers to a point that rests against the back of the hand.
Fixed Underwire
With the look and feel of a traditional underwire bra, the fixed underwire offers the most support and definition for full-busted women.
Flange dart
A tuck at the back shoulder and armhole intersection of a shirt or blouse that allows more movement in the arms.
A loosely woven fabric with a napped surface to conceal the weave, made mainly of wool in men's apparel.
Fibre: Wool, worsted, cotton, rayon.
Fibre: Cotton Weave: Plain and twill. Characteristics: A heavy, soft material with a napped finish, usually only on one side. In cheaper qualities the nap comes off. Launders well, easy to manipulate and is warm to wear. There are many types on the market. It may be bleached, dyed, printed, or woven in coloured stripes. Uses: Infants and children’s wear, men's, women's and children's sleeping wear, pocket linings, quilts, shirtings.
Flap pocket
A pocket with an overhanging flap.
Flap Pockets
A pocket with an extended flap forming the closure, as on an envelope.
Flap-over Inset Pockets
Pockets made by slitting the garment, binding the cut edges, and lining, with an envelope-like flap at the opening.
Flap-over Patch Pockets
A flat pocket applied to the outside of a garment, with an extended flap forming the closure, as on an envelope.
Flare Pants
Pants that flare at the hem. Also called bell-bottoms.
Flat Crepe
Also called French Crepe or Lingerie Crepe but not exactly the same. It is the flattest of all the crepes with only a very slight pebbled or crepe effect hard twist alternating 25 x 22 in filling; warp has ordinary twist. It is very soft and pliable, which makes it good for draping. It is very light weight - 2 times as many ends as picks. It may be white, coloured, or printed. Most of it launders well. Uses: Accessories, blouses, dress goods, negligees, pyjamas and other pieces of lingerie and linings
Flat-Front Pants
Straight pants, often seamless and pocketless.
Fibre: Wool specialty hair fibres, cotton. Weave: Plain, twill, pile or knitted. Characteristics: Has a deep, soft nap or pile, obtained by heavily napping with wire brushes or with a pile weave. This provides air space giving good insulating properties without too much weight. The interlacings are will covered by the nap. The nap wears out in time, but good quality cloth gives good wear. Range from cheap to expensive clothes. Material is often cumbersome and bulky, therefore it may be difficult to manipulate. Also, the name for the entire coat of wool taken from a sheep at shearing time. Uses: Mostly used for coats for men, women, and children.
Woolen material with a napped fuzzy surface, used mainly in outerwear.
Floating Underwire
The floating underwire has a sleek appearance and easy fit while providing more support for average to full-busted women.
Flood Pants
Pants cut at, or just above, the ankle.
Florentine Neck
A wide, square-cut neckline extending to the shoulders.
Florentine neckline
Extends form shoulder straight across front and back; inspired by Renaissance painters.
The flounce is cut from two circles creating a full flare at the hem and a smooth fitting line at the point at which it is attached to the garment.
Fly front placket
A placket that completely covers the buttons.
Straight from waist to ankle except for a slight curve around the hip.
Forward Pleats
Pleats that point toward the center of the garment.
Forward Point Collar
Traditional shirt collar-not buttoned down (also known as a Tennis Collar).
Fibre: Silk, rayon, very fine cotton, very fine worsted. Weave: Twill, 2 up 2 down. Characteristics: Very soft, light fabric. Noted for its soft finish and feel. It is usually printed with small figures on a dark or light background. Similar to Surah and Tie Silk, but finer. Was originally imported from India. Uses: Dresses, robes, scarves, and neckwear of all kinds. First made for the handkerchief trade
The most common tie worn by men today; tied in a flat knot at the neck; long strands hang down.
French Cuff
Have square or round edges that turn back and are worn with cuff-links.
French cuff
A double-layer cuff with folded back sleeve ends held in place by a cuff link.
French Fly
This closure has a front fly with an inside button tab; this keeps the fly laying smooth. It also has a hook & eye closure and extended outer tab with buttons.
French Front Placket
Construction detail in which the shirt front is simply folded under, eliminating the raised placket that runs down the front of the shirt.
French front placket
The placket is turned back on the lining.
French sleeve
In Europe and the USA the French sleeve is the same as a kimono sleeve, but in Japan it indicates a slightly longer sleeve. Also called a Chinese sleeve.
French Terry
A woven fabric, usually cotton, with loop pile on one or both sides.
Fringe trim
Unraveled cloth ends as seen on hems, shawls and western styles.
Fibre: Rayon most popular, also mohair and silk and synthetics. The ground or backing yarns are usually made of cotton. Sometimes jute or hemp are combined with the cotton. Weave: Pile (looped). Characteristics: Made usually with uncut loops in all-over pattern. It is sometimes patterned by shearing the loops at different lengths. Some made with both cut and uncut loops in the form of a pattern. Uses: Upholstery, also used widely as transporation fabric by railroads, buses, and airplanes. Frise is also spelled Frieze but frieze really refers to a rough, fuzzy, rizzy, boardy woolen overcoating fabric which originated in Friesland Holland. Often used for overcoating material for soldiers. Much adulteration is given the cloth. Irish frieze is quite popular adn more reliable and is called "cotha more".
Frog toggle
Decorative cording attached to front of garment; one side forms loop buttonhole.
A distinctive diagonal warp twill, tightly woven fabric.
Fibre: Worsted cotton, rayon, or mixtures. Weave: Steep twill (63 degrees). Characteristics: Clear finish, tightly woven, firm, durable, rather lustrous. Can be given a dull finish. Has single diagonal lines on the face, raised twil. Wears extremely well. Also comes in various weights. Inclined to shine with wear. Hard to press properly. Uses: Men's and women's tailored suits, coats, raincoats, uniforms, and men's shirts
A sturdy, durable, lightweight twill fabric of cotton, wool or rayon.
A long, narrow triangular cloth piece of fabric; usually seen on a skirt along the hem.
Garment Dyed
Fabric dyed after the garment is sewn
Garment Washed
Process where the garment is washed after construction, rather than prior to construction.
Gathered raffle
Edging made from strip of straight grain fabric; fullness, same at seam and hem edge, is created by gathering or pleating fabric.
A technique that creates fullness by tightening threads in a row of stitching.
Wide-legged pants or divided skirt reaching mid-calf.
Gauntlets cuff
A cuff styled after the glove style armor cuff worn by the medieval knight.
Highly creped sheer silk fabric, used for dresses and blouses.
Characterized by its crispness, body and outstanding durability, georgette is a sheer fabric of silk or synthetic material with a dull, slightly crinkled surface.
Georgette Crepe
Lightweight, heavy, sheer fabric. Has quite a bit of stiffness and body. gives excellent wear. Has a dull, crinkled surface. Achieved by alternating S and Z yarns in a high twist in both warp and filling directions. Georgette has a harser, duller, more crinkled feel and appearance than crepe de chine. Uses: After 5 wear and dressy afternoon and weddings, lingerie, scarves, etc. Same uses as crepe de chine.
Fabric with dyed yarns introduced at given intervals, both vertically and horizontally, to achieve block or check effects.
Fibre: Cotton, man-made, and synthtics. Weave: Plain-Word derived from Italy "Ging-gang" meaning "striped". Characteristics: Medium or fine yarns of varying quality are used to obtain the checks, plaids, stripes, and plain effects. The cloth is yarn dyed or printed. The warp and the filling are usually balanced and if checks of two colours, usually same sequence in both the warp and the filling. It is strong, substantial, and serviceable. It launders will but low textured, cheap fabric may shrink considerably unless preshrunk. Has a soft, dull lustre surface. Wrinkles unless wrinkle-resistant. Tissue or zephyr ginghams are sheer being woven with finer yarns and a higher thread count. Uses: Dresses, blouses, for both women and children, trimmings, kerchiefs, aprons, beach wear, curtains, bedspreads, pyjamas.
Glen Plaid
Scottish tartan of mostly gray, blue, brown, or greenish casts with multiple colors, in which a group of stripes run vertically and horizontally to form a boxlike pattern.
Gloss Finish
A finish giving off a surface luster or brightness.
Glove Silk
Fibre: Silk, rayon, synthetics. Weave: Knit - two bar doubleknit tricot. Characteristics: Made on a warp knitted frame. Very finely knit but very strong. Now called nylon Simplex. Uses: Gloves and underwear. Similar to chamoisette (cotton).
A triangular piece of fabric sewn in to a skirt or sleeve for extra fullness.
Gold Filled
A layer of gold covering a base metal by fusing.
Gold Inlay
Refers to when a design is cut right into a stone.
Gold Plated
Layers of gold over a base metal deposited on all surfaces by electroplating. The more layers deposited, the more durable the finish.
Goldtone Buckle
Gold color buckle
See gadget.
Gore Skirt
A full skirt that gets it's fullness from the gores. A gore is a tapered or triangular piece of fabric that is fuller at the bottom than at the top.
Grand Fancy Repp
A richly textured diagonal twill weave, with the weave resembling a herringbone pattern.
Graph Check
A fabric pattern resembling graph paper.
Graphic Stripes
A fabric pattern with ivory ground & Bold contrast.
An eyelet that is reinforced with metal or plastic; used as a durable closure or decoration.
An eyelet made of metal.
Gros Point de Venise
High relief needlepoint lace.
A heavy, rather prominent ribbed fabric--used mostly in ribbon.
Guard Stripe
A diagonal fabric pattern of even width stripes.
Guipure Lace
Tape lace in large, dramatic patterns executed on coarse mesh.
A triangular or diamond-shaped piece of cloth inserted in a garment to strengthen or enlarge it.
A pocket with a piece of material inserted at the side seam to allow extra fullness.
Gypsy neckline
See drawstring neckline.
Fibre: Silk. Weave: Plain. Characteristics: Very light weight and soft. A little heavier than China Silk, but similar. Sold by weight measure known "momme" (1 momme = 3.75 g). Made from waste silk that can be twisted. It is piece dyed or printed and sized. Has many defects in the cloth which has a "shot-about" appearance but this does not effect the cloth. Comes from Japan - originally woven in teh gum on Japanese hand looms. Lighter than shantung but heavier than silk. Uses: Dresses, coats, shirting, lampshades, lingerie, curtains.
Hairline Stripe
Very narrow stripes, made by weaving single threads in color to contrast with the background color.
Halter neckline
Strap, band, or tie that holds backless garment at neck.
Halter Top
A sleeveless bodice with a high choke or wrap-neck that is usually backless.
Manipulation of the weft thread usually placed on coverlets at the intersection of warp and weft cordons; button
A method of finishing seams that gives garments a smooth, flat appearance.
Handkerchief Style
The hem of a blouse or skirt that is gently jagged to form flowing points.
Harris Tweed
All are hand woven on the islands off the Northern coast of Scotland (outer Hebrides). There are two types of Harris Tweed: 1) Fabric woven from hand-spun yarn. 2) Fabric woven from machine-spun yarn. Now very few are woven from hand spun yarns as it takes too much time and labor. It is always stamped to that effect in addition to the label, which any Harris Tweed always bears. Much is woven in 27" and 28" widths, but also in 54". When damp, it smells mossy and smokey.
Refers to the bottom part of a garment.
Hemp is a bast fibre that was probably used first in Asia. The fibre is dark tan or brown and is difficult to bleach, but it can be dyed bright and dark colours. The hemp fibres vary widely in length, depending upon their ultimate use. Industrial fibres may be several inches long, while fibres used for domestic textiles are about 3/4 inch to 1 inch (1.9 to 2.54 cm) long. The elongation (1 to 6 percent) is low and its elasticity poor. The thermal reactions of hemp and the effect of sunlight are the same as for cotton. Hemp is moth resistant, but it is not impervious to mildew. Coarse hemp fibres and yarns are woven into cordage, rope, sacking and heavy-duty tarpaulins. In Italy, fine hemp fibres are used for interior design and apparel fabrics.
Hemstitched pocket
See piped pocket.
Decorative border in which some threads have been removed and some bundled to create an evenly spaced openwork.
Henley neckline
An open front, buttoned crew neck; usually with 2-3 buttons.
A broken-twill weave giving a zigzag effect produced by alternating the direction of the twill.
Fibre: Cotton or wool Weave: Plain Characteristics: Coarse, rugged yarn is used. Originally an un dyed woolen cloth spun into yarn and woven in th ehome, by peasants and country folk the world over. Has substantial appearance and serviceable qualities. Made with irregular, slightly twisted uneven yarns. Has a spongy feel with a hand-loomed tweedy appearance. Genuine homespun is produced in a very limited quantity and much powerloom cloth is sold as genuine homespun. Many qualities made - the best is an ideal rough-and-ready type of cloth. Uses: Coats, suits, seperates and sportswear.
Hidden in seam pocket
See seam pocket.
Hidden zipper
A zipper sewn into a garment so that the teeth of the zipper are hidden within the seam.
High Cut Brief
Panties that feature a high-cut leg and full front and rear coverage.
High Twist Wool
More durable than regular wool, it is resistant to dirt and holds both creases and it's shape.
High-Low Hem
A hemline higher in the front or on one side for a dramatic flounce effect.
Low-slung pants, skirt or belt worn below the natural waist, creating the impression of a longer, leaner torso.
Any type of panty that are cut so the waist rests on or slightly below the hips.
Fibre: Wool. Weave: Plain. Characteristics: Coarse, rugged yarn is used. Originally an undyed woolen cloth spun into yarn and woven in the home, by peasants and country folk the world over. Has a substantial appearance and serviceable qualities. Made with irregular, slightly twisted uneven yarns. Has a spongy feel with a hand-loomed tweedy appearance. Geniune homespun is produced in a very limited quantity and much powerloom cloth is sold as genuine homespun. Many qualities made - the best is an ideal rough-and-ready type of cloth. Uses: Coats, suits, seperates, and sportswear.
Fibre: Silk, also from man-made synthetics. Weave: Plain Characteristics: The best grade of wild silk. Very similar to "pongee" but finer. Made from wild silkworms raised in the Honan area of China. The only wild type that gives even dyeing results. Do not fit too tightly. Uses: Dresses, ensembles, blouses, lingerie.
Soft draped collar that also serves as a soft head covering.
Hook-and-Eye Closure
A 2-part fastening device consisting of a metal hook that catches over a bar or into a loop.
Fibre: Cotton, man-made, and synthtics. Weave: Plain-Word derived from Italy "Ging-gang" meaning "striped". Characteristics: Medium or fine yarns of varying quality are used to obtain the checks, plaids, stripes, and plain effects. The cloth is yarn dyed or printed. The warp and the filling are usually balanced and if checks of two colours, usually same sequence in both the warp and the filling. It is strong, substantial, and serviceable. It launders will but low textured, cheap fabric may shrink considerably unless preshrunk. Has a soft, dull lustre surface. Wrinkles unless wrinkle-resistant. Tissue or zephyr ginghams are sheer being woven with finer yarns and a higher thread count. Uses: Dresses, blouses, for both women and children, trimmings, kerchiefs, aprons, beach wear, curtains, bedspreads, pyjamas.
Horn Buttons
Buttons made from the actual horns of an animal.
Horseshoe Neck
A deep scoop neck resembling the shape of a horseshoe.
Horseshoe neckline
See u shaped neckline.
Check with jagged edges resembling a dog's tooth.
Fibre Linen, cotton. Weave: Dobby or basket. Characteristics: It is strong. Rough in the surface finish but finer, shinier than cotton huckaback. Has variation in weaves but most have small squares on the surface that stand out from the background. Comes in white, colours, or coloured borders. Also stripes. The motif is made from a series of floats, some of them rather long, which gives a loose effect in certain areas. This, if well spaced, acts as a good absorbing agency. Uses: Mostly used for towelling.
A case for storing cigars in which the air is kept at the proper humidity.
Fibre: Silk. Weave: Gauze or made on bobbinet machine or knotted. Characteristics: A very fine, all-silk tulle which originated in France. It has a cobweb appearance. Hexagonal open mesh. Made in 52 inch and 72 inch widths. Uses: Veilings, particularly for weddings, trimmings.
The inside seam of a pant leg.
The seam on the inside of the pant leg.
Inside of a shoe, usually covered by a sock lining.
The arched middle part of the foot between toes and ankle.
Italian term for an inlaid mosaic of wood or other materials. In knitting, the term is applied to a similar design with the pattern in solid colors on both sides of the fabric.
Term applied to a closely knit fabric produced on a machine with alternating long and short needles.
Inverted Pleat
Reversed box pleat with folds meeting at the top of the pleat.
Inverted pleats
Pleats that reverse the fold of the box pleat.
Play or reflection of multiple colors attained by using different colors in the warp and filling of a fabric.
Irish Linen
Thin linen woven of Irish flax, used for shirts, trousers, and sportcoats.
Italian Linen
Thin linen woven of Italian flax, used for shirts, trousers, and sportcoats.
A fabric of intricate variegated weave or pattern.
Intricate weaving creating complex designs in the fabric Weight: - popular
A raised design or pattern woven into a fabric as opposed to being printed on the fabric.
Term applied to a fabric with an arrangement of fine stripes formed by light, medium, and dark shades of a given color. It gives the appearance of a heather-twisted yarn.
Fibre: Wool, worsted, silk, cotton, rayon, andsynthetics. Weave: Knitted on circular, flat-bed or warp knitted methods (later popular as a tricot-knit). Characteristics: Right side has lenghtwise ribs (wales) and wrong side has crosswise ribs (courses). Very elastec with good draping qualities. Has special crease-resistant qualities due to its construction. Is knitted plain or has many elaborate tweed designs and fancy motifs as well as printed designs. Can look very much like woven fabric. Wears very well and if washable, it washes very well. First made on the Island on Jersey off the English coast and used for fisherman's clothing. Stretch as you sew. Uses: Dress goods, sportswear, sportshirts, suits, underwear, coats, gloves, sweaters, hats Knitted fabric with a slight rib on one side.
Jersey Wool
Wool Jersey Fibre: Wool, worsted, silk, cotton, rayon, and synthetics. Weave: Knitted on circular, flat-bed or warp knitted methods (later popular as a tricot-knit). Characteristics: Right side has lenghtwise ribs (wales) and wrong side has crosswise ribs (courses). Very elastec with good draping qualities. Has special crease-resistant qualities due to its construction. Is knitted plain or has many elaborate tweed designs and fancy motifs as well as printed designs. Can look very much like woven fabric. Wears very well and if washable, it washes very well. First made on the Island on Jersey off the English coast and used for fisherman's clothing. Stretch as you sew. Uses: Dress goods, sportswear, suits, underwear, coats, gloves, sweaters, hats.
Jewel Neck
A basic,A high round neckline resting simply at the base of the neck.
Jewel neckline
Simple, round, plain neckline suitable for many types of neck jewelry.
Jockey Stripe
A fabric pattern with alternating colors of even-width thin stripes.
A 1-pc. swimsuit usually with a tank or maillot bodice, full-cut attached shorts, inner panty; hides tummy, hips, thighs; comfortable for swim, sports.
Johnny collar
Small, flat collar frequently used on shirts and shirtwaist dresses.
Johnny Collar Polo
A sleeveless collar polo.
Judo belt
Long tie belt worn with judo gi (uniform) and usually made of heavyweight twill tape. The color indicates achievement level: black is the highest; brown is inter- mediate; and white is for the novice.
A sleeveless dress for wearing over a blouse, etc.
Jute And Burlap
Jute is used in textiles for interiors, especially for wall hangings and a group of bright, homespun-effect draperies and wall coverings. Natural jute has a yellow to brown or gray colour, with a silky luster. It consists of bundles of fibre held together by gummy substances that are pectinaceous in character. It is difficult to bleach completely, so many fabrics are bright, dark, or natural brown in colour. Jute reacts to chemicals in the same way as do cotton and flax. It has a good resistance to microorganisms and insects. Moisture increases the speed of deterioration but dry jute will last for a very long time. Jute works well for bagging, because it does not extend and is somewhat rough and coarse. This tends to keep stacks of bags in positin and resist slippage. It is widely used in the manufacture of linoleum and carpets for backing or base fabric.
A full-cut, dramatic top with dolman-style sleeves and a collarless square or boat neckline.
Kangaroo Pocket
A pocket formed by sewing a piece of cloth over the garment leaving two open ends.
A leather or metal device for holding the end of a belt in place.
Square scarf folded in a triangle and tied at head or neck. Commonly worn by women.
Fibre: Wool - poor quality, can also be made of re-used or remanufactured wool. Weave: Double cloth. Characteristics: Medium to heavy weight, similar to melton and beaver. Well fulled in the finishing with a rather lustrous nap caused by the use of lustrous crossbred wools. Nap often has direction. Gives good wear and is dressy looking. Blues, browns and blacks are the most popular colours. Originatedd in Kersey, England in 11th century. Very similar to beaver but it is fulled more, has a shorter nap and a much higher lustre. Uses: Men's overcoating, uniforms, women's coats, and skirts.
Keyhole neckline
a shaped hole opening at front of garment; can be rounded or wedge shape.
Shoe or glove leather from skins of goats; very soft and fine to the touch.
Kiltie Loafers
A loafer with a tongue of fringed leather that is draped over the instep.
Wrap style of a robe with full-cut sleeves and a sash, of Japanese origin.
Kimono sleeve
Long or short sleeve cut in one with body of garment; derived form Japanese kimono; sometimes a separate section called a gusset is added at underarm.
A leather, canvas, or other fabric bag for carrying items on the back.
Knife pleat
A pleat with a sharp, blade like stitch.
Knitted cuff
A cuff with rib knitting, often seen on a blouson sleeve.
Lace front neckline
A type of open front that is laced-up with a string and tie.
Lactose collar
A rib knit collar with a placket that has 2-3 buttons. Also called a polo collar.
The first fleece sheared from a lamb about 6-8 months old. It is a very fine quality, softly textured, but not as strong as fully developed wool of the same sheep.
French for "trimmed with leaves of gold or silver"). Fibre: Silk or any textile fibre in which metallic threads are used in the warp or the filling. Lame is also a trademark for metallic yarns. Weave: Usually a figured weave but could be any. Characteristics: Often has pattern all over the surface. The shine and glitter of this fabric makes it suitable for dressy wear. The term comes from the French for "worked with gold and silver wire". Uses: Principally for evening wear.
Extension of the front-opening edge of a garment at the point where it joins the collar, folded back to show the facing, which is called the reverse; cut in a variety of shapes formed with the collar, e.g. notched, fish-mouthed, clover-leaf, etc.
A form made of wood or metal that is shaped like a foot, over which a shoe is designed and manufactured.
Fibre: Cotton Weave: Plain Characteristics: Word derived from Laon, a city in France, where linen lawn was manufactured extensively. Light weight, sheer, soft, washable. It is crispier than voile but not as crisp as organdy. Made with fine high count yarns, silky feel. Made with either carded or combed yarns. Comes in white or may be dyed or printed. When made with combed yarns with a soft feel and slight luster it is called nainsook. Uses: Underwear, dresses, blouses, night wear, curtains, lingerie, collars, cuffs, infant wear, shirtings, handkerchiefs.
Lawyer's Bag
A briefcase with a flap closure, top handle, and inside gusseted pockets.
The dressed or tanned hide of an animal. Any of various articles or parts made of leather. It is protective, comfortable, and it breathes.
Leg-of-Mutton Sleeve
A loose, full sleeve, rounded from the shoulder to just below the elbow, then shaped to the arm, often ending in a point at the wrist.
Open weave using twisted fibers Weight: - weak weave
Lettuce Edge
A thin ruffle at neckline, cuff or hem.
Fabric that is cooler, stronger and more absorbent than cotton; woven from threads made from the flax plant. Fabric made of fibers removed from the stem of the flax plant; it was probably the first textile fabric to be used.
A cotton fabric that has been processed to give it a smooth finish. The process burns off lint and threads as well as fuzz and fiber ends, leaving
A symbol used by as corporation or business etc. as its emblem.
Constructed from a cord, fabric, or crochet thread and attached at edge of garment to hold buttons.
Low Vamp
The upper covering of shoe if the forepart is low.
Lug Soles
Soles with ridges on the bottom for increased traction.
Lycra Spandex
Brand name of a spandex fiber manufactured by Du Pont. Lycra has elasticity and retains its shape.
Lyons Velvet
A stiff, thick pile velvet. Used for hats, coat collars, also for suits, coats and dresses, when thick velvets are fashionable
Fibre: Wool. Ordinary grade of wool and often has shoddy re-used or remanufactured wool mixed in. Sometimes a cotton warp is used. Weave: Twill or double cloth. Weave is concealed. Characteristics: Very heavily fulled or felted and napped on both sides to conceal the weave. Much of the fabric is in a plaid or large check design or brightly coloured, or different colours on each side. Heavy and thick, very similar to melton. Named for MacKinac Island, Michigan. Also called ski cloth or snow cloth. Uses: Miners, lumbermen, hunters, trappers, fishermen, and cowboys use much of the fabric for jackets, mackinaws and coats. Also used for blankets, shirts, and some heavy sportswear, windbreakers.
Fibre: Cotton - some in rayon and silk. Weave: Plain, also dobby or jacquard for designs. Characteristics: Originated in Madras, india and it is a very old cloth. Much of it has a plain coloured background with stripes, plaid, checks, or designs on it. Has a high thread count adn fine. Made with combed or carded yarns depending on the quality. Some is mercerized to make it lustrous and durable. Often the dyes are not fast and with each washing, colour changes take place. Uses: Men's and women's sportswear of all kinds, dresses, separates, shirts.
(Pronounced “my-yo”). A 1-pc. swimsuit with sewn-on straps and scoop, squared or sweetheart neckline; designed to flatter most figure-types.
Man-tailored collar
see convertible
Mandarin Collar
A short, band collar, adopted from the close-fitting Asian collar.
Mandarin collar
see Chinese
Mao collar
a standing collar turned over. The Mao collar takes its name from former Chairman Mao Tee - Tug of China, and the look from Chinese ethnic wear. Also called mandarin, cadet, Chinese or Nehru collar.
Marquisette Fibre: Silk, cotton, rayon, synthetics. Weave: Gauze or lino. Characteristics: Very lightweight, open, sheer, mesh fabric. Wears very well and launders very well. Comes in white, solid colours and novelty effect. Sometimes with a swivel dot or clip spot (marquisette). Uses: Window curtains, dressy dress wear, such as bridal parties or after 5 wear.
Matelasse French for "cushioned or padded". Fibre: Figured made on jacquard or dobby loom, in double cloth weave. Characteristics: The pattern stands out and gives a "pouch" or "quilted" effect to the goods. Crepe yarn in double weave shrinks during finishing causing a blistering effect. in upholstery, coarse yarns cause blistering. Comes in colours, novelty effects, and some with metallic yarns. Gives good wear and drapes well. If washable, it must be laundered with care. It is very attractive and suits quite plain styles. Uses: Some cotton matelasse used for bedspreads, dresses, suits, ensembles.
Matte Finish
A non-glossy, dull finish.
Matte Jersey
Fine-knitted fabric with a flat finish.
Medallion Cap Toe
Design perforated in the leather of the shoe tip.
Mega Shirt
An extra-long and full bigshirt.
Melange Stripe
A French term for mixture effects in fabrics.
Melton Fibre: Wool, sometimes combined with synthetics. Weave: Twill or satin weave. Characteristics: Thick well fulled or felted wool with a smooth surface. Napped and very closely sheared. Coarse meltons are similar to makinaws but made of finer yarns and finished with a smoother, more lustrous surface - used for "under collar cloth" in lighter weights. Very solid cloth due to the finishing processes that completely conceal the weave. It wears very well. Wind resistant. if made in tan or buff colour in a coarse quality, it is called "Box cloth". It is classed with kersey, beaver, and broadcloth. Originated in Melton, Mowbray, England, which is a fox hunting report in england. It was first made as a hunting cloth. Looks like wool felt - pressed flat. Uses: Mostly used for men in overcoating, uniform cloth of all kinds (army, navy, etc., as well as polie and firemen), pea jackets, regal liverly. Used for heavy outer sports garments and coats for women
Smooth, lustrous fabric resulting from the treatment of cotton yarn or fabric with a solution of caustic soda; this strengthens yarns, adds to absorptive qualities, and improves dye penetration.
A heavy silver-white metallic element.
Merino Wool
From the Merino sheep, it is a strong, fine fiber with superior warmth, and is considered the best wool.
This skirt hugs the body until it reaches the knees or just below and then ends in a dramatic flare.
Merrow Stitching
The type and name of machine to stitch overlock edges of emblems.
A fiber or yarn made of or coated with metal, giving it an iridescent look.
Micro Sidewheeler
Small paddle wheel.
The fabric is exceptionally strong and has a silky feel to it. It is more porous, and "breathes" better than other polyesters. Microfiber is naturally water repellent, and is used in rainwear.
A polyester fleece, very soft and dense, but not bulky or fluffy.
Middy collar
See sailor collar.
Mitered Vents
Slits in the lower part of a garment, for ease of movement.
Soft loafer-like leather heelless shoes constructed with lacing to attach the sole brought up the sides of the foot and over the toes where it is joined with a puckered seam to a U-shape upper. Often elaborately beaded. Derived from designs of Native Americans.
Mock pocket
A flap sewn on outside garment that looks like a pocket but is not.
Mock turtleneck
Separate band stitched down to simulate a turtleneck collar.
Embossed item that resembles crocodile skin.
Mohair Fibre: From the angora goat. Some has cotton warp and mohair filling (sometimes called brilliantine). Imitation mohair made from wool or a blend. Weave: Plain or twill or knitted. Characteristics: Angora goat is one of the oldest animals known to man. It is 2 1/2 times as strong as wool. Goats are raised in S.Africa, Western Asia, turkey, and neighbouring countries. Some are in the U.S.A. Fabric is smooth, glossy, and wiry. Has long wavy hair. Also made in a pile fabric of cut and uncut loops similar to frieze with a cotton and wool back and mohair pattern. - Similar to alpaca. Uses: Linings, pile fabrics, suitings, upholstery fabrics, braids, dress materials, felt hats, and sweaters.
Fibre: Silk, rayon, cotton. Weave: Plain or crosswise rib. Characteristics: Has a watermarked finish. Fairly stiff with body in most cases. It is produced by passing the fabric between engraved cylinders which press the design into the material, causing the crushed and uncrushed parts to reflect the light differently. The pattern is not permanent, except on acetate rayon. Uses: After 5 wear, formals, dresses and coats, draperies, bedspreads
Synthetic materials that have been developed specifically to channel perspiration away from the body. Used in active wear and athletic shoe linings.
A cotton or synthetic twill fabric that has a warm, brushed hand.
Silk weight; a silk of 6 momme (mm) is very light; a silk of 22 mm is very heavy (suit weight);
Mongolian Wool
Long, curly woolen fibers used as a fluffy collar or trims on garments.
Monk's Cloth
Monk's Cloth Fibre: Wool, cotton, linen, silk, rayon, or synthetics. Weave: 4 x 4 basket weave. Characteristics: Quite heavy, due to construction. It is difficult to sew or manipulate as the yarns have a tendency to slide, stretch and fray. May sag in time depending on the compactness of the weave. It can also be made in other basket weaves. Quite rough in texture. Uses: Draperies, all types of upholstery and house furnishings. Also used for coats and suits for women and sports coats for men.
Moss Crepe
Moss Crepe Mossy Crepe or Sand Crepe (trade mark). Has a fine moss effect created by plain weave or small Dobby. Made with a spun-rayon warp adn a filament rayon filling. The two-ply warp yarn is very coarse and bulkier than the filling. Mostly made in rayon and synthetics but some in silk.
The hard, smooth, iridescent inner lining of the shell oysters, mussels, and other mollusks.
Mousseline De Soie
Fibre: Silk. Weave: Plain. Characteristics: It is silk muslin. Sheer, open, and lightweight. It is something like chiffon but with a crisp finish produced by sizing. It does not wear well and it does not launder. Uses: Evening wear, and bridal wear. Trimmings. Also used in millinery as a backing.
Sheepskin with a short or medium length pile, dyed in deep tones.
Shoes with high or low heel in which the vamp does not reach far beyond the toes.
Mule Slipper
A slipper without quarter or heel strap, also known as a scuff.
Nacre Velvet
Nacre Velvet another, so that it gives a changeable, pearly appearance.
Nainsook Fibre: Cotton Weave: Plain Characteristics: nylon. Weave: Knotted, made on a lace machine or gauze or leno weaves. Characteristics: A mesh fabric made in a variety of geometric-shaped meshes of different sizes and weights. It is very open and light. Uses: It forms the foundation for a great variety of laces, curtains, millinery, fancy pillows, trims, evening and bridal wear. In cotton, some is used for mosquito netting and screening.
Nappa Leather
A leather made by tanning sheepskins and lambskins with a soap-and-oil mixture; producing a soft pliable leather.
Natural Waist
A seam or waistband that secures or falls at the natural curve of the body, which is the indentation between the hips and the rib-cage.
A silver-white hard metal capable of a high polish and resistant to corrosion.
Night Shirt
Oversized (usually knee-length) shirt designed to be worn while sleeping. Pullover sleeping garment of woven cotton extending to above ankle length.
Ninnon Ninnon
Ninnon Fibre: Rayon. Synthetics. Weave: Plain, open mesh. Characteristics: A sheer, fairly crisp fabric, heavier than chiffon. Much like voile, but more body. The warp yarns are often grouped in pairs. Washes well, particularly in the synthetics. Uses: Mostly used for curtains, and some for evening or bridal wear.
No-Waist Waistline
Leaving the waistband out of pants or a dress to achieve an elegant simplicity and a smoother silhouette.
Noil (raw Silk)
Spun silk with nubby texture; appearance of soft cotton or wool; easy care, wrinkle resistant; travel well Weight:- medium to heavy
Short fibers that create a slubbed effect on the surface of a fabric.
Notch Lapel
Type of lapel on which the top line slants down in line with the collar seam.
Notch Neck
A round neckline having a small triangular cutout in the front center.
Notched Collar
A two-piece collar that can be only worn open.
Notched lapel
A collar with a v shaped notch where the collar meets with the lapel.
Cattleskin given a suede finish to appear as buckskin. Suede that is sanded down to a skin-like smoothness and softness.
Nylon Taffeta
Plain weave fabric that is finished smooth on both sides and has a sheen.
With the combined strength of nylon and the supple elasticity of spandex, this fabric is ideal for foundation garments and shape-giving lingerie.
Obi belt
A wide band worn high under the bosom and tied with narrow cord. Used on the kimono of Japanese women. Adaptations popular during the 1970s, 1980s and 1990s.
Off-seam Pockets
Pocket in which the opening does not lie along the seam.
Off-the-Shoulder Neck
A neckline that lies gently hovering across the top of the bustline with the shoulders uncovered.
Off-the-shoulder neckline
Neckline that falls below the shoulders but can have sleeves over arms.
A preserving process for leather in which oil is rubbed into the skin. This process is known as tanning.
Ombre Stripe
Term applied to a fabric woven or dyed in a graduation of shades.
On-seam Pockets
Pocket in which the opening lies along the seam.
One way pleats
Pleats all folded in the same direction. Also called side pleats
One-shoulder neckline
Asymmetric neckline, starting under one arm and continuing diagonally over opposite shoulder leaving one shoulder bare.
A variety of quartz that is very porous and layered with different shades of black and white. All onyx is artificially colored to enhance coloration and structure of the stone.
Open Sleeve
Refers to a short sleeve shirt that has no rib trim at the end of the sleeve.
Open Stitch
Woven or knit fabrics that are loosely-stitched, achieving a semi-transparency.
Opera Pocket
Hidden pocket on the inside of a cummerbund for storage of opera tickets, etc.
Opera Slipper
A slipper that is low cut on the sides, having no quarter strap, but having a section at the back of the foot.
Organdy Fibre: Cotton. Weave: Plain. Some has lappet, swivel, or flocked designs. Characteristics: Made with tightly twisted yarns. Crispness is due to a finish with starch and calendering which washes out, or a permanent crispness obtained with cemicals (Heberlein process). Wrinkles badly unless given a wrinkle-free finish (bellmanizing). May be bleached, dyed, printed, frosted, flocked, embroidered, or plisse. Uses: Fussy children's wear, trims, collars and cuffs, baby's wear, bonnets, artificial flowers, dolls clothes, millinery, summer formals, blouses, curtains, bedspreads, aprons.
Plain weave; sheer silk made of tightly twisted, fine yarns; use for interfacing, veils, under gownsWeight:- Crisp, Sheer Organza Fibre: Silk, rayon. Weave: Plain. Characteristics: Fine, sheer, lightweight, crisp fabric. It has a very wiry feel. It crushes or musses fairly easily, but it is easily pressed. Dressy type of fabric, sometimes has a silvery sheen. Uses: All types of after 5 dresses, trimming, neckwear, millinery, and underlinings for delicate, sheer materials, as well as an underlining for other fabrics that require a bit of stiffness without weight.Fine, sheer, lightweight, crisp fabric with a stiff feel. It crushes or musses fairly easily, but it is easily pressed. Dressy type of fabric, sometimes has a silvery sheen.
Ottoman Fibre: Silk, rayon, wool or synthetics. Weave: Crosswise rib. Characteristics: Heavy in weight - larger rib than both faille and bengaline. Very pronounced flat ribs in the filling direction. Ribs are made by a cotton, worsted, silk, or rayon filling which does not show on either the face or the back, because the warp covers the filling entirely. Is called Ottoman Cord or Ottoman rib when a warp rib is employed. Fabric is stiff and connot be gathered or shirred. Like othe ribbed fabrics, it has a tendency to slip at the seams and crack, so it cannot be fitted too tightly. Uses: Evening wraps, formal coats, dressy suits, dressy afternoon wear, and after 5 wear.
Ourdir - to warp, to hatch, to weave
Ourdissoir - a warp beam, carrying fifty andes of thread; bobbin holder; warping frame; a device called a warping frame or mill with pegs on which threads of equal length can be stretched and laid parallel in the preparing of a warp for the loom
Out seam
Opposite of inseam. The seam that runs along the outside of the pant leg.
Over-Dyed Denim
Interesting color-on-color effect obtained by adding color dye during the washing process; the more dye added, the more intense the color.
Overall clasp
Two part button usually made of metal and used to attach shoulder strap to bib of overalls.
A skirt worn over another skirt.
Oxford Fibre: Cotton - some in rayon. Weave: Plain variations - usually basket 2 x 1. Characteristics: Warp has two fine yarns which travel as one and one heavier softly-spun bulky filling which gives it a basket-weave look. Better qualities are mercerized. rather heavy. Usually is all white but some has a spaced stripe in the warp direction. Launders very well but soils easily. When made with yarn dyed warp and white weft, it is called oxford chambray. The one remaining commercial shirting material made originally by a Scotch mill which bore the names of four Universities - Oxford, Cambridge, Harvard, and Yale. Uses: Men's shirts mostly. Also used for summer jackets, shirts, skirts, dresses, and sportswear. A plain weave fabric of medium or heavy weight. The majority of oxfords are of combed yarns, and are given a silk-like luster finish. It has a characteristic pebbly basketweave construction.
A shoe cut below the ankle that is held on the foot by means of laces in the center of the instep.
Padded Bra
A bra with padded lower cups for a fuller bustline.
Pagoda sleeve
A type of bell sleeve that flares toward the cuff in tiers, resembling an Oriental pagoda.
Paillasse - mattress covers; straw mattress; straw mattress (usually made of teased corn shuck)
Small glittering disk, similar to a sequin, sewn together with others on fabric to create a fishscale effect.
A woven or printed pattern resembling the patterns of woolen shawls. Fabric in rich, swirling print either woven in or screened. Based on fine Scottish wool fabrics designed in yarn-dyed colors.
Pajamas, 2-pc.
Sleepwear set that includes a top and matching bottoms.
Pajamas, 3-pc.
Sleepwear set that includes a tank or cami, a (usually) long-sleeve over-shirt, and matching bottoms.
Panier - a basket used for textile processing acquired by bartering with Coushatta or Chitimacha Indians for cotton blankets or other goods; basket, hamper
Panne Velvet
Panne Velvet Has a longer or higher pile than velvet, but shorter than plush. It is pressed flat and has a high lustre made possible by a tremendous roller-press treatment given the material in finishing. Now often made as knit fabric.
Pant Weight
Durable heavier weight.
Paper Taffeta
Paper Taffeta Plain weave, very light in weight and treated to give a crisp, paper-like finish.
A versatile rectangle of printed fabric worn as a shawl, swimsuit cover-up, skirt, dress or scarf. Based on garments worn by natives of Pacific Islands.
A soft delicate hue.
Patch pocket
A pocket that is sewn on from the outside.
Patchwork Pattern
Woven fabric that combines together pieces of different prints and designs with stitching sometimes quilted. Often seen in romantic or country looks. Can also be achieved in knits by combining elaborate patterns of stitching.
Patent Leather
A smooth, shiny finish leather. A plastic urethane coating is put on the leather to give it the shine.
Pea Coat/Pea Jacket
It is a heavy, double-breasted dark blue woolen jacket,originally worn by sailors. warm hip-length woolen jacket with double-breasted front and a wide notched collar; originally worn by sailors in the color known as navy blue.
Fabric that is processed to achieve a surface that has the soft sueded feeling of a fresh peach.
Peak Lapels
A type of lapel on which the top line slants up from the horizontal, coming to a point and leaving only a narrow space between the collar and lapel.
Peasant neckline
See drawstring neckline.
Peasant Top
Romantic style often characterized with a low neckline, ruffles, or free flowing material.
Peau De Soie
Peau de Soie Soft, satin-face, good quality cloth. It hasa dull lustre. Has a grainy appearance, and is a characteristic in teh cloth which may have a single or double face construction. Fine close ribs are seen in the filling direction. With the best grades, the fabric can be used on either side. Lower qualities are finished on one side only. Name means "skin of silk". Some cloth sold as peau de soie is really a delustered satin. It doesn't have the grainy appearance. Because of crosswise rib, fabric difficult to ease. Also sold as "delustered satin".
A regular texture produced on the surface of leather by the embossing process.
Pedal Pushers
Straight cut pants, often cuffed, that fall just below the knee.
Any part of the garment which has been cut out to reveal skin.
Peignoir Set
A loose dressing gown and robe.
Penny Loafer
Mocassin-style shoe with a slotted strap stitched to the vamp.
A short overskirt or ruffle attached at the waistline of a jacket, blouse, dress or skirt.
Short flounce attached to a snugly fitting waistline.
A separate section between the waist and hipline, usually on a jacket. Section can be pleated or gathered to create flare.
Percale Fibre: Cotton Weave: Plain Characteristics:Medium weight, firm, smooth, with no gloss. Warps and washes very well. Made from both carded and combed yarns. Comes white or can be printed. Percale sheeting is the finest sheeting available, made of combed yarns and has a count of 200 - carded percale sheeting has a count of 180. It has a soft, silk-like feel. The thread count ranges usually from 180-100. First made by Wamsutta Mills. Uses: Dresses, women's and children's, sportswear, aprons, and sheets.
Petal sleeve
A sleeve shaped like a flower petal
Peter Pan Collar
A small flat close-fitting collar with rounded ends that meet in the front.
A stitch with spaces in between each stitch.
A row of small loops woven along the edge of fabric in ribbon or lace for a decorative effect.
(pee-co)-A series of tiny loops decorating an edge; frequently used on ribbons and lingerie.
Piece Dyed
Term applied to material that is dyed after it has been woven.
A look created by sewing several pieces of material together to form the garment, much like a quilt.
Pier rot collar
A very wide ruffled collar as worn by the French pantomime character, Pier rot.
Yarns colored with material that is of animal, vegetable or mineral origin before they are spun into fabric.
Leather made from the skin of a pig. Stronger than cowhide with a distinctive grain: groups of three tiny holes from which the fibers have been removed.
Pima Cotton
Made by weaving two thin vertical yarns with a single thicker horizontal yarn. The yarns are more slender, making the fabric feel thinner, lighter and lustrous. Pima can also be knitted into sweaters, characterized by their luster and fine handfeel.
Pin Check, Pinhead, Pick And Pick
Pin Check, Pinhead, Pick and Pick Fibre: Worsted, also made in cotton and rayon. Weave: Twill. Characteristics: A minute check effect caused by a combination of weave and colour. It has the appearnce of tiny white dots appeating in rows, vertically, and horizontally. Holds a sharp crease, tailors and wears exceptionally well. In time, it is inclined to shine with wear. Uses: Men's suits, women's tailored suits and skirts. In cotton, it usually has a white dot on a blue ground and it is used for work clothes.
Pin tucks
See tucks.
A fabric with very narrow ridges or ribs in it.
A very tightly woven fabric with a very high thread count per inch, making the fabric very soft, like a silk or broadcloth.
Fine stripes resulting from the use of white, gray, or other yarns in series in the warp of a worsted fabric.
Narrow, sewn-down pleats, usually on the front of a garment.
Narrow fold, braid, or cord used to decorate or finish the edges or pockets of a garment.
Narrow cord or bias fabric stitched between a seam; made of matching or contrasting fabric color.
(Pronounced “pee-kay”). Durable, knit or woven fabric with raised lengthwise cords or squares which are part of the weave.A dobby weave fabric with a diamond design.
Pique Fibre: Cotton, rayon, synthetics. Weave: Lengthwise rib, English crosswise rib or cord weave. Characteristics: Originally was a crosswise ri but now mostly a lenghtwise rib and the same as bedford cord. Ribs are often filled to give a more pronounced wale (cord weave). Comes in medium to heavy weights. It is generally made of combed face yarns and carded stuffer yarns. It is durable and launders well. Wrinkles badly unless given a wrinkle-free finish. Various prices. Also comes in different patterns besides wales. The small figured mtifs are called cloque. Some of the patterns are birdseye (small diamond), waffle (small squares), honeycomb (like the design on honeycomb honey). When the fabric begins to wear out it wears at the corded areas first. Uses: Trims, collars, cuffs, millinery, infants wear, aprticularly coats, and bonnets, women's and children's summer dresses, skirts and blouses, shirts, playclothes, and evening gowns.
It is a finished opening in a garment section. On the front of a shirt, it is used for placement of buttonholes.
Slit at neckline in a dress, blouse or skirt, usually reinforced with a fold of fabric.
An opening just below the collar extending down the center front of a shirt or dress (usually buttoned)
Yarns runs alternately over and under one another; most common weave Weight:- appearance is changed by looseness of weave
Plain Collar
A woman's shirt collar, equivalent to a men's forward point collar (not buttoned down).
Fabric with a puckered surface. French word meaning gathering, folding, pleating.
Plisse Fibre: Cotton, rayon, and others. Weave: Plain Characteristics: Could be made from any fine material, e.g. organdy, lawn, etc. Treated with a caustic soda solution which shrinks parts of the goods either all over or in stripes giving a blistered effect. Similar to seersucker in appearance. This crinkle may or may not be removed after washing. This depends on the quality of the fabric. It does not need to be ironed, but if a double thickness, such as a hem, needs a little, it should be done after the fabric is thoroughly dry. Uses: Sleepwear, housecoats, dresses, blouses for women and children, curtains, bedspreads, and bassinettes. Often it is called wrinkle crepe and may be made with a wax/shrink process (the waxed parts remain free of shrinkage and cause the ripples).
Boots with extra fullness at the wide part of the calf of the leg.
Plush Velvet or velveteen where the pile is 1/8" thick or more. e.g. Cotton velour, hat velour, plush "fake furs".
Pocket Jotter
A small leather accessory similar to a pocket secretary, but with corner slots for a notepad, credit card slots, and an inside pocket.
Pocket Secretary
A small leather accessory similar to a pocket jotter, but with 4 inside pockets and 6 credit card slots (no note pad).
Poet Style
See Bohemian.
Point D'esprit
Point d'esprit Fibre: Cotton - some in silk. Weave: Leno, gauze, knotted, or mesh. Characteristics: First made in France in 1834. Dull surfaced net with various sized holes. Has white or coloured dots individually spaced or in groups. Uses: Curtains, bassinettes, evening gowns.
An open-hole stitch usually in the shape of a V, flower or diamond.
Polished Brass
Brass with a high shine to it.
Polo Coat
A single- or double-breasted outercoat of heavy or light camelhair with set-in or raglan sleeves, patch pockets with flaps, and a half-belt or all-around belt.
Polo Dress
A long or knee-length sheath designed as an extension of the classic, cotton knit polo shirt.
Polo Shirt
A close-fitting pullover with a button placket and a knit collar.
Name given to natural and synthetic protein fibers and nylon.
A wrinkle resistant fabric made from synthetic resin.
Straight piece of fabric, usually waterproof, with an opening in the center for the head. Originally a Latin American garment in colorful woven fabrics that is used as outerwear.
Pongee Fibre: Silk, cotton, rayon. Weave: Plain. Characteristics: Originally from China and originally woven on hand looms in the home. Light or medium weight. Tan or ecru in colour. Woven "in the gum". Some is dyed, but colour is not quite uniform. Some printed. warp is finer and more even than filling. Nubs or irregular cross ribsl produced by uneven yarns. It is woven from wild tussah silk and it is a "raw silk". a variation of tussah; slight rib and texture; inexpensive Weight:- light weight; traditional summer fabric Uses: Dresses, ensembles, blouses, summer suits, in a medium weight. It used to be a great deal for drapery linings. Pongee cotton is made of combed yarns and given a variety of finishes.
Pont Knit
A tight knit weave that’s soft with just enough stretch for comfort.
Tightly woven,durable cotton made with a plain weave and a more pronounced rib than broadcloth. A finely ribbed fabric, usually made of cotton. Poplin Fibre: Cotton, wool, and other textile fibres. Weave: Crosswise rib. The filling is cylindrical. Two or three times as many warp as weft per inch. Characteristics: Has a more pronounced filling effect than broadcloth. It is mercerized and has quite a high lustre. It may be bleached, or dyed (usually vat dyes are used) or printed. Heavy poplin is gien a water-repellent finish for outdoor use. Originally made with silk warp and a heavier wool filling. Some also mildew-proof, fire-retardant, and some given a suede finish. American cotton broadcloth shirting is known as poplin in Great Britain. Uses: Sportswear of all kinds, shirts, boy's suits, uniforms, draperies, blouses, dresses.
Popover Dress
A one-piece dress that pulls over the head with a back zipper closure; may be designed to look like two pieces.
A hard, fine-grained, translucent white ceramic ware that is fired at high temperatures.
Porte - carried
Porte Filsa
Porte filsa - warping paddle; carry thread
A hinged cover or flexible case for carrying loose papers, pictures, or pamphlets.
Porti’s - draperies; door curtain.
Princess Seams
Close-fitting and usually with gores or panels from the neck to the bottom of the garment. Seams that can be found in the front or the back of a garment that create a figure-flattering, form-fitting shape.
Polyurethane coating. Makes fabric water repellent.
Pucker Knit
A pliss fabric with a crinkled or puckered effect; usually some spandex is required to create this textured, stretchy surface.
Puff Sleeve/Pouf Sleeve
A full sleeve of varying lengths, created by generous gathering around the armhole.
Slip-in shoe with a medium to high heel for day or evening.
Purl Stitch
Knitting stitch employed to create a ribbed effect.
Quarter Top Pocket
Also known as slash pockets, the opening edge forms a diagonal from the waistband to the side seam.
Three layers (top, padding and lining) of fabric used to give a puffy look; layers are held together with a variety of quilt-design stitching.
A fine palm leaf used for decorative effects. Can be woven into shoes or hats.
Raglan Sleeve
A sleeve with a seam extending at an angle from the armhole to the collar.
Raglan sleeve
Sleeve and shoulder section cut as one piece and attached to garment body with an angular seam.
Rajah (trade name) Fibre: Silk, rayon. Weave: Plain - warp yarn is 4 thread organzine - filling is heavier. Characteristics: Made from a tussah silk or certain silk wastes. It belongs to the pongee family of silks. Made from irregular yarns, so has slubs and irregularities but thicker than shantung. it is rather compact and strong. Has a pebble-like feel and appearance. Comes in all colours as well as natural ecru shades, but often warp and filling are different colours (irridescent effect).
Ramie Ramie is a natural woody fibre resembling flax. Ramie Ramie Ramie is a natural woody fibre resembling flax. Also know as rhea and China grass, it is obtained from a tall shrub grown in South-east Asia. China, Japan, and southern Europe. The fibre is stiff, more brittle than linen, and highly lustrous. It can be bleached to extreme whiteness. Ramie fibres are long and very fine. They are white and lustrous and almost silklike in appearance. The strength of ramie is excellent and varies from 5.3 to 7.4 grams per denier. Elastic recovery is low and elongation is poor. Ramie lends itsef to general processing for textile yarns, but its retting operation is difficult and costly, making the fibre unprofitable for general use. When combed, ramie is half the density of linen, but much stronger, coarser, and more absorbent. It has permanent luster and good affinity for dyes; it is affected little by moisture. Ramie is used as filling yarn in mixed woolen fabrics, as adulteration with silk fibres, and as a substitute for flax. The China-grass cloth use by the Chinese is made of Ramie. This fibre is also useful for rope, twine, and nets.
Raw Silk
Refers to spun silk that has been brushed to give a cotton effect; popular; easy care; inexpensive
Silky, lustrous material manmade from natural fibers, with excellent drape and dyeability.
Reactive Dye
This type of dye provides bright colors on cottons and can dye acrylics, nylon, silk, and wool. It holds up well to light exposure and washing.
Regimental Stripes
Colors identified in England with various regiments and used in ties worn by their officers in civilian dress. Similar colors and arrangements are used in neckwear in England and the U.S.
Relaxed Fit Shirt
A dress shirt fit designed with deeper armholes, a deep back yoke, and wider shoulders with dual side pleats that provide greater freedom of movement, assuring you of extraordinary comfort.
Closely woven ribbed fabric with a transverse cord effect; used for neckwear, accessories, and sportswear.
Repp Or Rep
Repp or Rep Fibre: Wool, worsted, silk, rayon, wool ottoman, cotton or a blend. Weave: Crosswise rib. Characteristics: Has a pronounced narrow cylindrical rib in the filling direction - less distinct than bengaline; more distinct than poplin. Sometimes a very distinct rib is alternated with a small rib. It is similar to poplin but heavier in cotton. Can be dyed, printed, or white. Frays badly. Difficult to press (may flatten rib). Uses: Heavy suits, and coats for men's and boy's wear, and also for some women. Also used for upholstery and drapery.
(re-veer)-Another name for lapel, actually the facing of the lapel, which folds back to show the reverse side or reveres.
Reverse Pleats
Pleats that point away from the center of the garment.
Reverse Stripe
A pattern in which the stripes are white, with a colored background.
Variation of plain weave in which the yarns in one direction are heavier than the other creating a rib effect Weight:- a strong fabric weave
a narrow, flat, or tubular piece of closely woven fabric used as a trim. Types; include embroidered and grosgrain (go-grain).
The measurement from the crotch to the top of waistband (either in front or back).
See back yoke.
Any loose, open-front garment worn before dressing, while lounging, or after a bath or swim. Usually closed by a tie around the waist.
Roll neckline
A collar that rolls naturally as in a sweater knit.
Rolled collar
Collar extending upward from neckline and turning over, the roll higher at back than in front.
Roueta - "low" or "treadle" wheel used for spinning by the Acadians; spinning wheel
(Pronounced “rooshing”). Shirring or pleating for a textured effect, or an applied border of pleated ribbon for a ruffled effect.
Strip of cloth, lace or ribbon at the edge of a garment that creates a rippled effect.
Strip of fabric that forms a ripple at edge of garment.
Rugby Stripe
Alternating stripes of 2 or more colors, wide but of equal width.
Sack Jacket
Undarted. Straighter cut with a narrower shoulder stance, set-in besom flap pockets. Easier fit. Classically worn with only the center button closed.
Saddle Bag
A business case with a full flap front with a buckle (resembling a horse saddle).
Saddle Shoulders
A sweater or other knitted garment in which the sleeves are attached with seams extending from the armholes to the collar in front and back.
Saddle Stitch
Small running stitches visible on the outside of shoes and accessories.
Safari Style
Safari Style Garments adapted from bush jackets worn by hunters on African safaris; including such features as bellows pockets, belting and epaulettes.
Sailcloth Fibre: Cotton, linen, nylon. Weave: Plain, some made with a crosswise rib. Characteristics: A strong canvas or duck. The weights vary, but most often the count is around 148 x 60. Able to withstand the elements (rain, wind and snow). Sailcloth for clothing is sold frequently and is much lighter weight than used for sails. Uses: Sails, awnings, and all kinds of sportswear for men, women, and children.
Footwear consisting of a sole with a strap upper in front and a buckled strap extending from the back over the instep.
A shoe held on by straps or a wide-banded vamp.
A process using sand to wash either fabric or finished garment, giving it a slightly worn or faded appearance and making it very soft.
Sarong Skirt
Long cloth that is wrapped around the entire body.
A small bag for carrying clothes, books, etc.
Sateen Fibre: Cotton, some also made in rayon. Weave: Sateen, 5-harness, filling-face weave. Characteristics: Lustrous and smooth with the sheen in a filling direction. Carded or combed yarns are used. Better qualities are mercerized to give a higher sheen. Some are only calendered to produce the sheen but this disappears with sashing and is not considered genuine sateen. May be bleached, dyed, or printed. Difficult to make good bound buttonholes on it as it has a tendency to slip at the seams. Uses: Dresses, sportswear,louses,robes,pyjamas, linings for draperies, bedspreads, slip covers. A smooth, durable lustrous fabric, usually made of cotton in a satin weave. Lustrous cotton or rayon, this fabric has a smooth hand with a soft sheen.
Satin Faconne jacquard figured fabric with an all-satin weave background. Various types of striping effects are obtained. Jacquard figure on a satin ground.
A smooth fabric woven with a glossy face and a dull back.
Satin-back Satin on one side and anything on the other. e.g. very good velvet ribbon has velvet on one side and satin on the other.
Satin-back Crepe
Satin-back Crepe A reversible cloth with satin on one side and crepe on the other.
Edges either cut, knit or crocheted in a tight wave pattern.
A series of circular curves frequently used as hem edge.
Scarf collar
A scarf, wrap style, oversized collar.
Schooner Leather
A handsewn leather boatshoe.
Scoop Neck/Round Neck
A low, U-shaped or round neckline.
Scoop neckline
Low, rounded, curved neckline.
Scotch Grained Calfskin
Heavy chrome-tanned side leather with a deeply embossed pebbled surface.
Seam pocket
Inside pocket attached to both sides of seam; can be top stitched on outside or left free.
Seed Stitch
A knitted stitch pattern resembling a seed in shape.
Fibre: Cotton, rayon, synthetics. Weave: Plain, slack tension weave. Characteristics: Term derived from the Persian "shirushaker", a kind of cloth, literally "milk and sugar". Crepe-stripe effect. Coloured stripes are often used. Dull surface. Comes in medium to heavy weights. The woven crinkle is produced by alternating slack and tight yarns in the warp. This is permanent. Some may be produced by pressing or chemicals, which is not likely to be permanent - called plisse. Durable, gives good service and wear. May be lalundered without ironing. Can be bleached, yarn dyed, or printed. Some comes in a check effect. Uses: Summer suits for men, women, and children, coats, uniforms, trims, nightwear, all kinds of sportswear, dresses, blouses, children's wear of all kinds, curtains, bedspreads, slipcovers. Term derived from the Persian "shirushaker", a kind of cloth, literally "milk and sugar". The woven crinkle is produced by alternating slack and tight yarns in the warp. Washable fabric with crinkled stripes made by altering the tension of the warp threads. It comes in stripes, plaids, checks, or prints, and is used for sportswear, pajamas, and robes.
Self Belt
A belt made of the same material as the garment with which it is worn.
Self Collar
Same fabric as the rest of the shirt.
The narrow, white woven edge of fabric parallel to the warp; usually visible inside a pant along the inner leg.
Semi-raglan sleeve
Similar to the raglan sleeve, yet the armhole curves to the middle of the shoulder seam as opposed to the shoulder neckline intersection.
Serge Fibre: Worsted - also unfinished worsted, wool, cotton, silk, rayon, and synthetics. Weave: A very distinct twill (2 up/2 down) which shows on both sides of the fabric. Characteristics: On the face, the distinct diagonal runs from the lower left to the upper right - piece dyed. Has a smooth, hard finish that wears exceptionally well but will shine with use. The shine cannot ne removed permanently. It is a good cloth in tailoring as it drapes and clings very well. Made in various weights. Unfinished worsted and wool are not quite as clear on the surface. French Sere is made of very fine soft yarns and has a very fine twill. It is used for dresses or very soft suits. Uses: Coats, suits and sportswear.
The gum that protects the fiber in its natural state
Set in sleeve
The armhole is attached in the ordinary way to the sleeve.
Shantung Fibre: Cotton, silk, rayon, synthetics. Weave: Plain. Characteristics: It is a raw silk made from Tussah silk or silk waste, depending on the quality. It is quite similar to pongee, but has a more irregular surface, heavier, and rougher. Most of the slubs are in the filling direction. Wrinkles quite a bit. Underlining helps to prevent this as well as slipping at the seams. Do not fit too tightly, if long wear is expected. Comes in various weights, colours and also printed. Uses: Dresses, suits, and coats. A heavy fabric with a rough, slubbed surface usually made of silk or some other soft material (often rayon or cotton).
Undergarments with special features including tummy-control panels, thigh slimmers, and bust support.
Sharkskin Fibre: Worsted. Some wool. Also made in rayons and synthetics (particularly Arnel) but they are quite different. Weave: 2 x 2 twill weave (1 white, 1 black up and same down). Characteristics: The yarns in both the warp and filling are alternately white (or very light yarns) and coloured. The combination of weave and colour results in coloured lines running diagonally to the left opposite to the twill lines in a "step" effect. Has a very sleek, smooth, feel and appearance. Although it is fairly lightin weight, it has a very substantial feel. Gives excellent wear and sheds dirt readily. Has many variations. : Has a heavy, semi-crisp texture. It is very smooth and slippery. Has a flat look. It is mostly made in white but some also comes coloured. It wears well and launders well particularly in Arnel. Has a tendency to turn yellow with age, but the Arnel remains pure white Uses: Used for men's and women's suits, lightweight coats and sportswear
Shawl Collar
A turned-over collar of a garment that combines with the lapel forming an unbroken curving line. A one-piece collar that is turned down to form an elegant, continuous line around the back of the neck to the front of a garment.
Shawl collar
A soft roll collar cut with body of garment and seamed at back; sometimes lapel section is notched.
Skin of a tanned lamb or sheep with the wool retained; used for lining material with the wool side in or out, for outerwear, and for gloves.
A straight narrow dress fitted to the body with vertical darts or a set-in waist.
Sheer Fibre: Any fibre. Weave: Mostly plain but could be various weaves. Characteristics: Any very light-weight fabric (e.g. chiffon, georgette, voile, sheer crepe). Usually has an open weave. They mostly feel cool
Shelf Bra
A bra that is built into a garment and offers the lightest support. It has a smooth, seamless appearance.
Shetland Fibre: Wool from Shetland sheep in Scotland. Sheep have a coarse outer coat and a very fine undercoat which gives added warmth. The best is the undergrowth. It is not shorn but pulled out by hand in the spring. Other wools sometimes called shetland if they have a similar appearance. Weave: Twill, plain, or knitted. Characteristics: Has a very soft hand and a shaggey finish of protruding fibres. - a pulled wool; the soft undergrowth of the shetland sheep. Very lightweight and warm. Much is made by hand and comes in distinctive soft colouring. Often the natural colours ranging from off-white, various greys to almost black and brown are used and not dyed. Real Shetland wools are expensive, high quality products. - In the same family group as homespun, tweed and cheviot. Uses: Coats, suits, and sportswear for both men and women. Fine shetlands are made into fine shawls, underwearm crochet, work and hosiery. Warm,lightweight wool from sheep raised on the Shetland Islands, off the Scottish coast.
A loose-fitting or semi-fitted dress.
A straight lined basic dress of the 1960s, hanging away from the body.
Shirred Waist
A decorative gathering (as of cloth) made by drawing up the material along two or more parallel lines of stitching.
A gathering of fabric made by drawing up the material along 2 or more parallel lines of stitching. Gathering of material usually used for visual figure enhancement.
Shirt Dress
A dress cut similar to a man’s shirt with buttons down the front. A tailored dress patterned after a shirt and having buttons down the front.
Shirt Jacket
A jacket designed in the style of a shirt.
Shirt Jacket
A button front top that can be worn as a shirt or layered as a jacket over another top.
Shirt sleeve
The straight-line sleeve seen on the ordinary button front shirt. Usual has a sleeve placket (gantlet) and cuff.
Shot Taffeta
Shot Taffeta Usually plain weave, woven with one colour in the warp and another colour in the filling, which gives the fabric an iridescent look. If fabric is moved in the light this colour changes. Silk version of chambray.
Side pleats
See one way pleats
An extremely soft, natural fabric made from the secretions of silkworms.
Silk Charmeuse
A fine, semi-lustrous crepe in a satin weave, made of silk.
Silk Chiffon
A very sheer fabric made of silk.
Silk Crepe De Chine
A type of silk that is tightly twisted to give it a crinkled look.
Silk Organza
A sheer dress fabric resembling organdy and usually made of silk.
Silk Ottoman
Textured, closely woven fabric of raised crosswise ribs, made of silk; used for neckwear.
Silk Satin
Silk fabric with a highly lustrous surface and usually a dull back; it is made in different weights according to its' uses.
Silk Shantung
Nubby silk fabric, used for suits, accessories, and sportswear.
Silk Tussah
Creeper drier hand spun 100% silk with more natural form.
Silver Plate
Having a thin coating of silver applied to an item.
Simulated Linen Fabrics
Simulated Linen Fabrics Various rayons, cottons, synthetics, and blends are woven with threads of uneven thickness to simulate linen. They lack the cool, firm, yet soft feel of linen. Their irregularities are too even when seen beside real linen.
Sisal Sisal is one of a group of fibres obtained from the leaves of plants. It is obtained from a plant that belongs to the Agave family and is raised in Mexico, especially in the Yucatan peninsula. The fibre is also cultivated in Africa, Jva, and some areas of South America. Sisal can be dyed bright colours, by means of both cotton dyes and acid dyes normally used for wool. It is important in the manufacture of such items as matting, rough handbags, ropes and cordage and carpeting.
A fitted, sleeveless dress, usually with a flaring skirt.
Shorts that have a front covering to resemble a skirt.
Slash Pockets
Pocket set into a slash opening, usually vertically or at a slight angle.
Any style of backless slip-on shoe.
Slide Buckle
A buckle to be used with a strap belt that does not have holes at the end for inserting the prong.
Slim Fit
Trimmer than the regular body model, it is shaped closer through the chest and waist. The box pleat has been eliminated to further reduce fullness.
Any shoe with an open back and strap around the heel.
Usually silk, polyester, or nylon, these sleeveless women’s undergarments are worn under skirts and dresses to prevent visible creases caused by foundation garments as well as static cling.
Slip Dress
Bias-cut dress with a fitted top, no waistline and camisole straps.
Slipper Satin
Slipper Satin Strong, compactly woven with quite a bit of body. It is used chiefly for footwear. Textures are high and the material comes coloured, black or white, or richly brocaded efects. - Shiniest satin.
A dress that has a shoulder yoke with gathering for a full sweep.
A transparent to translucent mineral, it has a vitreous or greasy luster.
Soft Roll Polo Collar
Also called a button-down collar, where the points are held down by small buttons at the points. It was invented in England by polo players, thus its name.
With light support and a sleek, smooth appearance, soft cups give just the right amount of support for small to average-busted women.
(Pronounced “sootash”). Woven, satin braid used as a decoration for dresses and suits.
Spaghetti Strap
A thin tubular strap that attaches to the bodice, named for its likeness to a strand of spaghetti.
An elastic fabric made from a polymer containing polyurethane.
Split Neck
A round neckline that looks like it has been cut in the center to form a small "V".
Split Toe
A style of shoe where the toe cap, or tip of the shoe, has vertical stitching down the center front.
Spun Rayon
Spun Rayon Fibre: Rayon. Weave: Plain. Characteristics: Simulated cotton or wool made with staple fibers in a continous strand to give this effect. Wears well and is washable. Made in different weights. Comes in plain colours and prints. Has soft, fuzzy surface. Blends well with cotton. Uses: Dresses, suits, sportswear, men's shirts.
Spun Silk
Shorter lengths of silk filaments that are spun together much as cotton or wool yarns are spun. Spun silk is soft, but not as lustrous, strong, or elastic as reeled silk. It is less expensive, and is used in summer wash silks and dress trimmings. Short silk threads that are spun together to form a longer filament; a lower quality silk.
Square Neck
An open-yoke neckline shaped in the form of a half square.
Stacked Heel
A heel constructed from individual layers of leather or manmade material laminated together for strength, durability and pattern.
Stainless Steel
An alloy of steel with chromium (and sometimes another element) that is practically immune to rusting and ordinary corrosion.
Sterling Silver
A standard of 925 parts of silver to 75 parts of copper in the silver alloy.
A pumps or slingback with a high narrow heel.
Stirrup Pant
A pant with a piece of fabric or elastic attached at the bottom of the leg. This is generally used to keep the pant leg inside one's boots. The stirrup can be permanent or detachable.
A washing process during manufacture that includes use of abrasive stones to create a softer look.
Storm Flap
On a zip front jacket, it is the flap that snaps closed over the zipper for added protection from the weather.
Straight Legs
Pant legs that are cut an equal width from the waist to ankles.
Stretch Cotton
A cotton fabric usually with spandex or Lycra® spandex for greater comfort, a better fit and superior wrinkle resistance.
A thong panty.
A set of solid buttons with a shank or eye on the back inserted thru a buttonhole; used on dress shirts and formal shirts.
Suede Fibre: Wool, cotton, rayon, synthetics and blends. Weave: Plain, twill, or knitted. Characteristics: Napped on one side to resemble suede leather. Short, close nap gives a soft, smooth hand. When made in cotton, it resembles duvetyne, but heavier. Uses: Cleaning cloths, gloves, linings, sports coats. Leather in which the flesh side of the skin is buffed to a velvet finish, giving it a nap. Leather that is buffed on the inside to raise a slight nap -- giving it a textured appearance.
Brand name of oxford cloth made of unusually long-staple cotton fibers from the southwestern part of the United States.
Surah Fibre: Silk, rayon, and synthetics. Weave: Twill (2 up and 2 down). Characteristics: soft and flexible. Lightweight and lustrous. Has a decided twill on the fabric. Wrinkles fiarly easily. Underlining helps to prevent this, as well as to prevent slipping at the seams. Some have a endency to water spot. Very similar to "foulard", but heavier. Uses: Dresses, suits, ensembles, dresses and coats, cravats, ties, scarves, blouses, jacket and coat linings.
Sweetheart Neck
A graceful, open yoke, shaped like the top half of a heart.
A band of fabric that is buttoned or studded into place. It can be used on pockets and fastenings or to control fullness.
Tab Collar
Has an easy to use snap or button tab, which is attached to the collar.
Tab Shorts
Has an easy to use snap or button tab, which is attached to belt loop area.
Plain weave fabric of silk or other fibers that is finished smooth on both sides and has a sheen.
Taffeta Fibre: SIlk, rayon, synthetics. Weave: Usu ally plain with a fine cross rib. Characteristics: A cloth supposed to have originated in Iran (Persia) ad was called "taftah" (a fine silk fabric) - (in 16th century, became a luxury for women's wear). It is made in plain colours, fancy prints, watered designs, and changeable effects. It is smooth with a sheen on its surface. The textures vary considerably. They have a crispness and stiffness. Taffeta in silk will not wear, as long as other high quality silks, since weighting is given the fabric to make it stiff. If it is overweighted, the goods will split or crack. Uses: All kinds of after 5 wear, dressy evening wear: suits and coats, slips, ribbons, blouses, umbrella fabric. It is quite a dressy fabric
A high-cut panty.
A top similar to an undershirt with narrow straps, a U neck and deep armholes.
A two-piece bathing suit with the upper portion resembling a tank top. A tankini provides the coverage of a maillot and the freedom of a bikini.
Tapered Legs
Pant legs that become progressively narrower toward the ankles.
A plaid design of Scottish origin consisting of stripes of varying widths and colors usually patterned to designate a distinctive clan.
Tassel Loafers
A men's low step-in dress shoe with a tassel trim on the vamp of the shoe (top of the foot).
A uniformly square pattern of lines of two or more colors forming squares on a solid background.
Tea Length
A dress hemmed to end at the shins.
Knit shirt with short or long set-in sleeves.
Tennis Cardigan
A button-front cardigan, usually with a v-neck, tipping trim, and sometimes with cable detailing.
Tennis Collar
Traditional shirt collar-not buttoned down (also known as the Forward Point Collar).
Tennis Skirt
An elastic waist, short, slightly flared skirt; very comfortable for easy movement.
Terry Cloth
Terry cloth Fibre: Cotton and some linen. Weave: Pile, also jacquard and dobby combined with pile. Characteristics: Either all over loops on both sides of the fabric or patterned loops on both sides. Formed with an extra warp yarn. Long wearing, easy to launder and requires no ironing. May be bleached, dyed, or printed. Better qualities have a close, firm, underweave, with very close loops. Very absorbent, and the longer the loop, the greater the absorbency. When the pile is only on one side, it is called "Turkish towelling". Uses: Towels, beachwear, bathrobes, all kinds of sportswear, children's wear, slip covers, and draperies. A fabric having uncut loops on both sides. It can be solid or patterned.
A sandal held on the foot by a strap between the first and second toes.
Thong Panties
Briefs with a single strap back, V-shaped front and elastic waist.
Three-quarter sleeve
The length is three-fourths that of the ordinary sleeve. Usually falls halfway between the elbow and the wrist.
Throat Latch
The extra throat latch itself has three holes. The middle hole is used to attach it to the lapel when not in use. The two end holes are used to secure the lapels together when the collar is turned up.
Ticket Pocket
A small pocket on the right-hand side of a jacket or coat just above the regular pocket. It provides a conveniently accessible place for tickets or coins.
see four in hand
Tie neck
See ascot.
Tie-Cinched Waist
The waist is pulled tight around the body with a tie.
Tiking Fibre: Cotton Weave: Usually twill (L2/1 or L3/1), some jacquard, satin, and dobby. Characteristics: Very tightly woven with more warp than filling yarns. Very sturdy and strong, smooth and lustrous. Usually has white and coloured stripes, but some patterned (floral). Can be made water-repellent, germ resestant, and feather-proof. Uses: Pillow covers, mattress coverings, upholstering and some sportswear. "Bohemian ticking" has a plain weave, a very high texture, and is featherproof. Lighter weight than regular ticking. Patterned with narrow coloured striped on a white background or may have a chambray effect by using a white or unbleached warp with a blue or red filling.
A band or strip of fabric or other material at the edge (neck, sleeve, hem, etc.) of a garment.
Tissue Taffeta
Tissue Taffeta Plain weave, very light weight and transparent.
A crosspiece of wood, metal, or other material attached to a rope, cord, or chain and designed to be inserted in the loop of a cord as a closure on a garment.
Oblong button frequently used with frog or toggle closings.
The upper edge of a shoe.
Machine stitching showing on the right side of a garment for decorative effect. Also a shoe detail or decoration.
Track Stripe
A fabric pattern resembling railroad tracks.
Traditional Fit
The "Brooks" shirt, it is a generously cut shirt with a box pleat on the back which allows for a more comfortable fit. It is suggested for the man who prefers a loose fitting shirt.
Transparent Velvet (Chiffon Velvet)
Transparent Velvet (Chiffon Velvet) Lightweight, very soft, draping velvet made with a silk or rayon back and a rayon pile.
Trapeze Top
Tank top style with a fuller bottom sweep.
A waterproof overcoat styled along military lines.
Trench Coat
A double-breasted raincoat with deep pockets, wide belt, cape yoke, shoulder epaulets, and an extra deep inverted back pleat.
Tricot Fibre: Silk, rayon, synthetics. Weave: Knit, warp knitted. Vertical wales on surface and more or less crosswise ribs on the back. Characteristics: Has a thin texture, made from very fine or single yarns. Glove silk is a double bar tricot (very run-resistant). Uses: Underwear, sportswear, bathing suits, gloves
Tricotine Fibre: Worsted, wool, rayon, blends with synthetics. Weave: 63 twill, left to right (double). Characteristics: Has a double twill rib on the face of the cloth. Has a very clear finish. It drapes well, and tailors easily. Medium in weight. Has exceptional wearing qualities. Very much like cavalry twill, but finer. In the same family as whipcords, coverts, and gabardines. Uses: Men's and women's suits and coats. It is also used for ski slacks in a stretch fabric
Trier Le Cotton
Trier le coton - the process of selecting cotton, and taking out all dried leaves, large pieces of vines, and dried grass trier -to pick o
Triple Sheers
Triple Sheers Heavier and flatter than sheers. Almost opaque. Many are made from "Bemberg", which wears, drapes, and washes well. Sheers are used extensively for after 5 wear, as well as afternoon dresses in heavier weights, and some coats, lingerie, curtains, trims, etc.
Tropical Wool
Suiting weighing from 6 to 11 ounces per yard, made in a variety of weaves; it is used for suits and sportswear.
Tropical Worsteds
Tropical Worsteds Fibre: 100% worsted. If just called tropical, it can be made up in any fibre or blends of wool and a synthetic. Weave: Plain and rather open weaves. Characteristics: The yarns are very tightly twisted adn woven to permit a free circulation of air. It is lightweight ad is ideal for summer and tropical wear. It has a clear finish. Wears and tailors very well. Uses: Both men's and women's suits and coats.
Trouser Skirt
A skirt styled after a man's trousers, with fly front, constructed waist, and usually belt loops.
Tube Top
A strapless top made with stretch fabric.
Parallel folds of fabric stitched on outside or inside of garment; called pin tucks when many tucks are used close together with a narrow fold.
A fine sheer net fabric. Tulle Fibre: Silk, nylon, cotton. Weave: Guaze, knotted, leno, made on a lace machine. Characteristics: derived name from Tulle, France. First made by Machine in 1768. Has a hexagonal mesh and is stiff. It is difficult to launder. Comes is white and colours, and is very cool, dressy, and delicate. Uses: It is a stately type of fabric when used for formal wear, and weddings. It is also used for ballet costumes and wedding veils.
Tumbled Leather
Soft leather with a slightly pebbled grain.
A simple slip-on top that usually falls below the hips or longer.
A high, close-fitting, turnover collar used especially for sweaters and knit tops.
High band collar, usually knitted, that fits very closely on the neck and rolls over, sometimes twice; introduced in the 1860s, popular in the 1920s and 1930s and revived 1960s and 1980s.
Tussah Fibre: Silk. Weave: Usually plain but also in twill. Characteristics: Made from wild or uncultivated silkworms. It is coarse, strong, and uneven. Dull lustre and rather stiff. Has a rough texture with many slubs, knots, and bumps. It is ecru or tan in colour and it is difficult to bleach. It usually doesn't take an even dye colour. Wears well and becomes more rough looking with wear. It wrinkles a little, but not as much as some. Various weights. Appears in filament and staple form. Uses: In lighter weights, dresses. In heavier weights, coats and suits and ensembles. Wild silk, generally from India, loosely woven Weight:-heavy.
Tweed Fibre: Wool, also cotton, rayon, silk, linen, and synthetics. Weave: Twill, novelty variations, or plain. Characteristics: It is the Scotch name for twill and originated along the banks of the Tweed river, which separates England from Scotland. Sometimes known as "tweel". Sistercloth of homespun cheviot and shetland. They are the same in texture, yarn, weight, feel, and use. Originally only made from different coloured stock-dyed fibres, producing various colour effects. There are a wide range of rough surfaced, sturdy fabrics. There are also some closely woven smoother, softer yarn fabrics, and many monotone tweeds. May also be plaid, checked, striped, or other patterns. Does not hold a crease very well. Uses: Wide range of suits, coats, and sportswear for men, women and children. Lighter weight, used for dresses. A coarse wool or synthetic fabric used chiefly for casual suits and coats.
Basic weave characterized by diagonal lines on the surface of the fabric. An expensive weave Weight:- an expensive weave. A basic weave characterized by diagonal wales on the face.
A cardigan sweater over a matching sleeveless or short-sleeve sweater.
Two - piece sleeve
A sleeve made of two pieces. Usually seen on a tailored jacket.
Two-Way Stretch
The quality of woven or knit garments made with spandex that enables them to stretch vertically and horizontally.
Two-way zipper
A zipper that has a zipper pull at both the top and the bottom
U shaped neckline
deeply scooped neckline shaped like a horseshoe.
An anti-bacterial finish that protects against odors.
Registered trademark of Springs Mills, Inc. for luxury suede-like fabric.
This traditional style underwire bra offers the most support and definition for full-busted women.
Utility loop
Mostly seen on jeans, carpenter pants and painters pants. The loop is used to carry tools such as a hammer.
V zone
Refers to the v shaped area where a jacket collar is open.
An open yoke coming to a "V" shape midway down the bodice.
Valet Key Fob
A 2-ring key holder, 1 of which detaches from the holder and is used for valet parking, etc. when you don't want the attendant to have all of your keys.
Valet Stand
A device (as a rack or stand) for holding clothing or personal effects.
The section of the upper part of a shoe extending forward to the toe cap and part or all of the way to the rear seam. The upper part of a shoe or boot covering the instep.
Having streaks, marks, or patches of different colors – distinguished or characterized by a variety of different colors.
Vegetable Dyes
Natural dyes obtained from flowers, nuts, berries, and other forms of plant and vegetable life.
Name for a hook-and-loop fastener consisting of 2 tapes. One has little hooks; the other, tiny self-loops. When pressed together, they hold together with considerable strength.
Trademark for a closing consisting of a tape woven with minute nylon hooks that mesh with loops on an opposite tape. First used by astronauts.
A strong, durable cream-colored paper.
Velour Fibre: Cotton, wool, or spun rayon. Weave: Thick, plush pile, with a plain or satin ground, or sometimes knitted. Characteristics: The pile is characterized by uneven lengths (usually two) which gives it a rough look. The two lengths of pile create light and shaded areas on the surface. A rather pebbled effect. This type of velour was invented and made in Lyons, France, in 1844. "Velours" is the French term for velvet. "Cotton velour" is simply cotton velvet. Uses: Hats, dressing gowns, dresses, waist-coats, upholstery. Now most commonly sold as knit velour. Soft velvety thick pile fabric made of various fibers and yarns. Used primarily for coats, warm-up suits, knit shirts and dresses.
A clothing fabric characterized by a short, soft dense pile. Velvet Fibre: Silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics, and a little wool and worsted. Weave: Pile, made with an extra warp yarn. Characteristics: Mostly made with a plain back but some with a twill. Some are made with a silk pile and a rayon or cotton back. Terms comes from the Latin "vellus", meaning a fleece or tufted hair. Comes in many types, qualities, and weights. Good velvet wears fairly well adn is inexpensive. The cheaper cloths give little service and look well only a few times before beginning to deteriorate. Better velvet may be crush resistant, water resistant, adn drapes well. Has to be handled with care, and pressed on a velvet board. Cut all one way. For the maximum amount of depth in the colour, cut with the pile running up. it also wears better when cut this way. Velvet should be cut with very simple lines in the garment, so not to destroy the beauty of the fabric. It has the tendency to add weight to the figure. Uses: All types of after 5 wear, at home wear, draperies, upholstering. Pile fabric often containing some rayon; gorgeous drapeWeight:- medium to heavy Fabric made of various fibers in different weights woven with an extra yarn in the warp. This fabric is cut and brushed to form a soft, luxurious pile.
Velvet Satin
Velvet Satin A satin weave is used as the base for this luxurious figured silk, made with a cut pile effect.
Velveteen Fibre: Cotton, sometimes rayon. Weave:Filling pile, very short. Characteristics: Woven with a extra filling yarn with either a plain or a twill back (twill back is the best). Warp yarns 80/inch - weft ranges from 175 to 600 depending on the desired density of the pile. Mercerized with a durable finish. Strong and takes hard wear. Poor quality rubs off. Some of it can be laundered. It is warm. Comes in all colours, gradually piece dyed or may be printed. Has to be cut all one way. Press carefully, preferabley on a velvet board, or tumble dry after laundering (no pressing needed). Uses: Children's wear, dresses, coats, draperies, lounge wear, seperates. Cut-pile fabric (often cotton) made with an extra filling yarn. The pile is not more than 1/8' high. Used primarily for dresses, suits and sportswear.
Viyella Fibre: A blend of 55% wool and 45% cotton. Weave: Twill. Characteristics: Has the appearance of very fine flannel. It is soft, fine, and warm. Holds a good pleat. Washable by machine. If made up in a slim skirt for women, should be underlined, as it has not much body. Uses: Excellent for all kinds of children's and baby's wear, sportswear, men's and women's tailored shirts and dresses.
Venetian Nubuck
Style of shoe ( penny without the stay across the top.) & leather that has been brushed to give it suede like nap.
A slit cut into the rear hem of a jacket or sides of a shirt that is designed to enhance freedom of movement.
A gold finish on sterling silver that is durable and tarnish-resistant.
Versatile Plaid
A pattern consisting of colored stripes which cross each other at right angles. This design can be used with different color garments.
A viscous golden-brown solution made by treating cellulose with caustic alkali solution and carbon disulfide and used in making rayon.
Voile Fibre: Cotton - also wool and called "Voile de laine". Weave: Plain, loosely woven. Characteristics: Sheer and very light weight. Usually made with cylindrical combed yarns. To obtian a top quality fabric, very highly twisted yarns are aused. Voile drapes and gathers very well. The clear surface is obtained by singeing away any fuzzy yarns. Has a hard finish and crisp, sometimes wiry hand. "Voile de Laine" is wool voile. Uses: Dresses, blouses, curtains.
Waffle Pique
A cotton fabric made in a honeycomb weave, and used for sportswear.
A band going around the waist of a pant or skirt.
A vest usually worn under a tuxedo jacket.
Warp-print Taffeta
Warp-print Taffeta Usually a plain weave, the warp yarns are printed before the filling is inserted. The fabric has a very fuzzy design when design is distorted as fabric is woven.
Watch Pocket
A small pocket just below the waistband of men's trousers.
Wedge sleeve
The armhole line is a wedge shape.
Welt Construction
A shoe construction using a narrow strip of welting onto which the outsole and ribbed insole are stitched.
Welt Pocket
Pocket that has a folded strip of material sewn into the front portion of the pocket. The welt extends upward from the seam. A set-in pocket with one wide band at the opening; usually found as the chest pocket on a sportcoat.
Welt pocket
Type of bound pocket with one edge of binding wider than the other. Of note; now updated as cell phone and pager pockets.
Whipcord Fibre: Cotton, rayon, worsted or woolen. Weave: Twill Characteristics: Very much like gabardine, but the yarn is bulkier and much more pronounced. The twill is steep 63 degrees and goes from left to right (except for cotton). It is very durable, rugged and stands hard usage and wear. In time, it shines a bit with wear. Some times back is napped for warmth. So named because it stimulates the lash of a whip. Uses: Topcoats, uniform cloths, suitings, sportswear, riding habits. In cotton, it is also used for automobile seat covers and little boys play suits.
Whipcord Fibre: Worsted or woolen, also cotton and rayon. Weave: Twill Characteristics: Very much like gabardine, but the yarn is bulkier and much more pronounced. The twill is steep 63 degrees and goes from left to right (except for cotton). It is very durable, rugged and stands hard usage and wear. In time, it shines a bit with wear. Some times back is napped for warmth. So named because it stimulates the lash of a whip. Uses: Topcoats, uniform cloths, suitings, sportswear, riding habits. In cotton, it is also used for automobile seat covers and little boys play suits.
Wide Legs
Pants or jeans that are cut extra full through the legs, with a wider leg opening.
Design formed by stripes running vertically and horizontally in an arrangement resembling the framework of a window.
Wing Collar
A collar style resembling a wing in appearance, where the tips of the collar extend out like wings.
Wing Collar
A collar with projections that cover shoulder seams of bodices and doublets
Wing collar
Tailored shirt collar with spread points.
Wing Tip Shoe
A shoe with a tip shaped like the spread wing of a bird, pointed in the center and extending toward the rear on both sides. It has heavily perforated seams and toe-cap design.
Wool Crepe
A light crinkled woven fabric made of wool.
Wool Flannel
A soft twilled wool fabric with a loose texture and a slightly napped surface. Wool Flannel Weave: Usually twill, some plain. Characteristics: Originated in Wales. Soft, with a napped surface that partially cancels the weave. Dull finish. Made in a variety of weights. More loosely woven than worsted flannel with a higher nap and bulkier hand. Shrinks if not pre-shrunk. Sags with wear, unless underlined. Does not shine or hold a crease. Watch pressing - if pressed too hard, it flattens in the nap. Comes in many colours, weights, and fancy effects. Sometimes has a prickly feel when worn. Uses: Blazers, dresses, skirts, suits and coats. Boys suits, jackets, and shirts. Shirts and sportswear.
Wool Pile
Fabric with loops on the surface, sometimes uncut. This fabric has a deep nap.
Worsted Flannel
Worsted Flannel Weave: Twill Characteristics: Made in a variety of weights. More closely woven and harder than wool flannel. Can have a very slight nap on one side. tailors very well. Presses well and holds a hard crease. Uses: Men's suits, jacksets and trousers. Women's coats, suits, skirts, and tailored dresses
Worsted Wool
More durable than regular wool, resistant to dirt, holds creases & shape.
Wrap Coat
A full cut outercoat without a button closure, worn wrapped around the body and held in place by a tied or buckled belt.
Wrap Skirt
A skirt that is made with a full length opening and adjusted to the body by wrapping it around the body and fastening it at the waist.
Wrap Top/Surplice Top
A bodice created by the cross-wrapping of fabric; may be in front or back, and associated with a high or low neckline.
Wrinkle Free
Eliminates wrinkles thru chemically treated cotton.
Y shaped neckline
A v neck style that extends down the center front neckline 4-6 inches; usually with 1-5 buttons. Considered a cardigan neckline when the center front extends to the hem of the garment.
A fabric in which the yarns are dyed before weaving or knitting. Yarn that has been dyed prior to the weaving or knitting of the garment. Yarn-dyed garments hold their color after repeated cleaning.
A fitted or shaped piece at the shoulders of a shirt.
The fitted top of a garment across the shoulders in front or back, usually a separate piece seamed across the front and back; sometimes lined.
Contains a fitted portion over the neck and shoulder area and fullness in the body, The yoke can also be found on the front or back of a pant.
The Spanish word for shoe.
Trademark of E. I. Du Pont for a compound used to make a fabric stain repellent.
Zibeline Fibre: Wool from cross-bred yarns. Weave: Satin. Characteristics: The fabric is napped then steamed and pressed. The nap is long and lies in one direction. It is very lustrous and sleek. It may or may not be given a soft finish and feel. It is usually strong colored and sometimes stripings (removal of color) is noted in the cloth. Named for the "zibeline" a small animal found in Siberia. It belongs to the sable family and has fine black fur. Uses: Coats, cloaks, capes and winter suits for women.
Zip-In/Zip-Out Lining
A completely removable lining inserted into a coat or jacket by means of a zipper or buttons around the coat facing. Also called a shell.
Zipper fly
First used for jeans by H.D. Lee in 1926. Invented in 1893 by W. Lit comb Judson.
Zipper pull
A metal accessory that allows for the opening of a zipper; usually in various shaped and sizes.

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