Online Mens Tailor And Custom Tailoring
Common Questions about Product Features
12) I want to know more about various silk types
13) What is a gorge?
14) What is the difference between ready-to-wear/off-the-peg, made-to-measure, and full Bespoke Suits?
15) I am afraid to take sizes. Can I send measurements off a garment I am happy with?
16) What are the prices for suits, shirts, pants?
17) What is a Peak Lapel?
18) What is the difference between a single breasted and a double breasted jacket?
19) What is difference between "Slim or Snug Fit", "Athletic Cut" and "Full Fit"?
20) How can I be sure of a perfect fit?
- How do I best take sizes, with clothes on or without any clothes on? Should I submit sizes in centimeters or Inches ?
Our measurement form is very comprehensive and can be used for all garments, including shirts, suits, pants, etc. Two-dimensional measurements such as lengths, shoulder widths, etc, can be taken off another piece of clothing that fits well but three-dimensional measurements such as chest circumference, stomach, etc., should be taken off the body. Use the video tutorials on the forms to see how to best take measurements. When taking Measurements, we recommend a thin shirt or t-shirt and a well fitting pair of pants. Tights, jogging suits, corsets or any other body binding garments should not be worn when taking the sizes.
For pant and trouser measurements, wear items that sit exactly where you want your custom pants to sit. The position of the pants waist band on the waist at the sides, front and back are required when taking measurements for the pants out seam and U-crotch.
Jacket lengths do not necessarily have to conform to the second knuckle on the thumb since some people have long arms and others short arms as well as styles selected also make a difference. Ideally, the standard jacket length should cover at least the buttocks at the back and the crotch in the front.
Do not take the neck size of shirts tightly or snugly. Make sure a finger is kept between the tape and the body for comfort allowance for the collar. We do not recommend using off the rack measurements for custom clothing. When submitting shirt sleeve lengths, measure sleeve length from the top of the shoulder to the length desired as is described in the measurements forms.
For your convenience, each measurement requirement for each kind of garment is indicated using icons so that those minimal sizes get submitted as necessary.
Measurements can be submitted in centimeters or in inches. Since our legacy is the traditional school of tailoring, we work with inches and should sizes be submitted in centimeters we will convert them to inches. So, it is safe to say that we prefer inches. Remember to select the appropriate unit of measurement when submitting the sizes.
- I want to know more about various silk types
- Squirrel tail silk is a matte finish light weight, flowing drape, easy care, wrinkle resistant, washable silk synthetic blend. It works well in a very light summer suit or a heavy evening shirt.
- A Thai Silk blend, a shirt fabric, is a gloss finish, shiny, easy care, light weight, wrinkle resistant, washable silk terelene blend fabric and excellent for evening dress wear.
- Pure Thai Silk is a stiffer, gloss finish, hand woven, pure silk fabric with a glossy dressy finish that is ideal for an elegant evening shirt, worn without a jacket.
It makes a very rich suit for evening wear. Pure Thai Silk should only be dry cleaned.
- Chinese silks are sand washed and have a velvety finish. These silks are extremely light weight, with a flowing drape. These two-tone matte finish materials should be hand washed only.
Chinese silks are mainly used for but in different weights can be used for different types of garments.
- The silk-cashmere blend is an excellent 10 ounce weight material, ideal for a suit that can be worn year-round. It has a soft feel and a gloss finish.
Imbued with subtle elegance, this silk, cashmere, wool and viscose blend make it very wrinkle resistant.
- Raw silk is a fancy, 9 ounce weight fabric for year-round wear. It has a matte nubby fleck finish that brings out a raw appearance. This is a silk/terelene blend material and extremely wrinkle-resistant for men´s and women´s suits, and sports jackets or blazers.
- What is a gorge?
The gorge is the point where the lapels meet in the front to create the V between which the necktie is visible against the background of the shirt. The coatÂ´s design determines its positioning. While there is some flexibility in its placement on the upper chest, moving it outside this area to where it becomes a focal point courts instant obsolescence.
There are three kind of gorges on a suit coat:
1. Low/Long Gorge: is when the lapels are cut very low towards the stomach so that more of the shirt and tie are visible.
2. Mid Gorge: is when the lapels are slightly lengthened in proportion to the overall length of the jacket but not so much as to make it a visibly low gorge.
3. High Gorge: When the lapels is cut very high towards the neck so as to reduce the amount of tie visible between the two lines of the jacket on the chest.
The length of the gorge depends on several factors; styles used, the height of the wearer, and the number of buttons on the jacket.
- What is the difference between ready-to-wear/off-the-peg, made-to-measure, and full Bespoke Suits?
A true bespoke suit is of greater value than anything else available. They look better, fit better, and last years longer than anything else.
Even so, Â£2000 [about $4000 USD, at time of writing] is a lot to pay. With modern technology there are acceptable ready-to-wear, manufactured suits being made, starting at only a few hundred pounds. So regardless of your budget, you have a lot of options. Here is the basic hierarchy to consider:
1. A totally machine made, off-the-peg suit
These cost around Â£100 to Â£600. The production systems are simple, a suit is literally made in minutes. With machine-made suits, all manufacturers have pattern designers who create a basic pattern that will be acceptable to most people. So, you are guided by the fit and the feel of the jacket around the neck and shoulders.
If youÂ´re in-between sizes, get the larger size and pay an alteration tailor Â£20-Â£30 to have it taken in.
Not to be confused with Â´bespokeÂ´, you are getting the same machine-made suit as number one, but the basic pattern will reflect slight alterations to improve the overall fit. Expect to pay anywhere between Â£450 to Â£800. You have more opportunities to personalize the suit, pocket details, style, etc.
The person who measures you may have limited experience; they are only running a tape around you and checking style boxes on the order form.
There are retail chains that offer this service and even proper tailors are out there. A.J. Hewitt, an excellent tailor, is a good example. The tailors at My Custom Tailor offer true Â´bespokeÂ´ that ranks with the best. They also offer made-to-measure which isnÂ´t the same quality as their best Â´bespokeÂ´ suits. They are simply offering the option of only climbing halfway up the sartorial ladder. Ultimately with made-to-measure, your suit is at the mercy of the manufacturer. However, when you have an experienced cutters like those at My Custom Tailors to measure you, there is far less chance of disappointment.
3. Hand-made, off-the-peg
These are made by hand and the quality is generally very good. But it is still an assembly line, using humans instead of machines to cut from generic, standardized patterns, not your own individual measurements. Yes, the button holes will be hand-sewn, just like Â´bespokeÂ´ and your coat will be made with a floating canvas. But the assembly line will still crank out twenty five Â´size 40sÂ´ in a single shift. The quality is acceptable and you can order the suit in the morning and be wearing it by the afternoon.
- I am afraid to take sizes. Can I send measurements off a garment I am happy with?
We can certainly work from measurements you submit from a finished shirt, suit or pants according to the list below. However, DO NOT submit these measurements as part of your measurements profile, as the profile will assumed these are off-the-body sizes resulting in the finished sizes being different due to allowances for comfort we always make.
The sizes in this list should be emailed to us or this list can be printed out and faxed to us at (66) 2 650 0956.
The sizes used for replicating your own clothing are as follows:
a. The length of the front of the shirt taken from the side of the collar at the fold down to the edge of the shirt.
b. The length of the back of the shirt taken from the bottom of the collar seam at the center of the back to the edge of the shirt.
c. Chest circumference at the point where the arm holes join the torso taken across the front and doubled for full circumference.
Take the measurement across the front of the chest and across the back on the same line and indicate each measurement separately.
d. Stomach circumference at the middle of the shirt where it tapers to its narrowest.
Take the measurement across the front of the stomach/waist and the back on the same line, separately.
e. Hips circumference at the bottom of the shirt at the highest point of the shirt tails.
The front half and the back half of the hips should be taken separately.
f. Shoulder width from where the shoulder and sleeve seams join on one side to the other.
g. Sleeve length from the point where shoulder and sleeve join to the lowest edge of the cuffs.
h. Neck circumference from center of button to center of button hole.
i. Cuff circumference from center of button to center of button hole as well as from one outer edge of the cuff to the other outer edge of the cuff.
j. The height of the cuffs.
k. The length of the collar points in front. The height of the collar at the back.
l. The height of the collar band in the front where it buttons. The height of the collar band at the back.
m. The width of the back yoke where the joint across the back joins from one arm to the other.
n. The under arm length where the armhole and chest join to the edge of the cuff under the sleeves.
o. The distance of collar and first button and the distance of first and second button. The total number of buttons on the shirt.
B - For pants and trousers:
a. Waist circumference for the pants by measuring the outside of the waistband from the center of the hook or button to the center of the clasp or buttonhole.
b. Hips circumference at the widest part of the buttocks. If the pants are pleated, make sure the pleats are fully opened. Typically, the widest part of the hips is around an inch above or exactly at the end of the zipper placket.
c. Out seam length taken from the top of the waist band to the lowest edge of the pants cuffs down the side of the pants taken along the seam. Lay the pants flat and make sure there are no folds or creases along the length. It helps to pull the pants absolutely flat by stretching them a bit along the length.
d. U crotch taken from the top of the waistband in front, down between the legs and up to the top of the waist band at the back. Take three measurements for the U crotch, one is the overall length of the U, next is the distance from the top of the waistband in front to the joint of the U below the zipper placket, and the third is from the top of the waistband at the back down to the joint of the U between the legs. The second and third measurements should add up to the first measurement forthe full U crotch length.
e. Thighs and Legs - finished size to be taken off another pair of pants that fit well and taken around 2 inches below the U crutch joint. This is the circumference of the legs at the widest part. The leg measurements should be taken as multiple measurements each around 3 to 4 inches below the other. That is, take the circumference measurement at exactly the point where the U crotch and the thighs join, then measure 4 inches down and take them again, then measure another four inches down and take them again and so on, all the way to the bottom of the pants. This way, essentially, we would have the finished pants legs circumference from the U crotch/top of the thighs all the way down to the leg at 3 to 4 inch intervals. This will provide the proper silhouette of the pants legs to ensure perfect replication.
f. Bottoms- is the circumference of the pants at the cuffs and can be taken off another well fitting pair of pants.
C - For Jackets
a. The length of the jacket in front taken from where the shoulder and neck join on the top of the shoulder to the lowest point in front, taken vertically down the length and typically along the nearer end of the front pockets.
b. The length of the jacket at the back taken from where the back center seam joins the collar to the lowest edge at the back, typically along the center seam.
c. Chest circumference at the point where the armhole joins the torso. Individual measurement of each of the typically six panels on the jacket will help greatly in correct proportioning. The first is from the edge of the lapel fold (where it folds back onto the chest to create the lapel) to the seam in front just under the arm. The second is from the first seam under the arm in front to the second seam at the back under the arm. The third is from the second seam under the arm at the back to the center seam in the middle of the back. The other three are the same on the other side and should typically equal the corresponding measurements of the opposite side.
d. Stomach circumference at the middle of the jacket where it tapers to its narrowest. This is typically at the first button on a two-button jacket and the second or third button of a three or four button jacket. Here too, measurements of all the six panels as described in point 3 above will help.
e. Hips circumference at the bottom of the jacket at the widest point - typically just under the pocket flaps or just at the middle of the back vents. Again, the six-panel dimension will help.
f. Shoulder width from where the shoulder and sleeve seams join on one side to the other on the top of the sleeves.
g. Sleeve length from the point where shoulder and sleeve join to the lowest edge of the cuffs.
h. Half shoulder - from where the shoulder seam joins the side of the neck to where the seam joins the top of the sleeve.
i. Bicep circumference is taken at the top of the sleeves at its widest part - typically at the same level as the bottom of the armhole where it joins the sleeves.
j. The armhole circumference.
k. The length of the sleeve from where it joins the top of the shoulder to the edge of the cuff.
l. The width of the back yoke where the joint across the back joins from one arm to the other.
m. The under arm length where the armhole and chest joins the sleeve to the edge of the cuff under the sleeves.
n. The distance of side of the neck and first button and the distance of first and second button and the total number of buttons on the jacket. This tells us the gorge or button depth and is taken from the side of the neck where neck and shoulder join to the location of the first button.
o. Your height.
p. Chest circumference off the body.
q. Stomach circumference off the body.
r. Hips circumference off the body.
s. Shoulder width off the body.
t. Sleeve length that you would like (as opposed to the ready to wear sleeve lengths).
u. Neck circumference off the body.
v. Back width taken from the sample where the arm joins the back on one side at the point where the back seam of the sleeve hits the back of the sample jacket to where the back and arm joins on the other side at a corresponding location.
w. The lower back taken from the sample jacket where the side seams under the arm joins the sleeves and back to the corresponding point on the opposite side.
x. Width of the lapels at their widest point.
D - For vests:
a. Front length from top of shoulder where it meets the neck to the tip of the V at the bottom.
b. Back length from the nape of the neck at the back to the edge of the vest/waistcoat. Typically 2 to 3 inches below waistline.
c. Chest for men and upper bosom for women and also bosom for women at the level of the nipples taken from the sample vest.
d. Stomach for men/narrowest part of the torso for women taken from the sample vest.
e. Hips for men/stomach for women at the navel level and hips for women at the widest part.
f. Shoulders from one end to the other on top of the armholes.
g. Neck circumference taken off the body.
h. Armhole for women off the body and circumference of the armhole desired on the vest.
i. Gorge of the buttons taken from the side of the neck where neck and shoulder seam join, down the front to the location of the first button.
j. Half shoulder, taken from the sample vest, where the side of the neck and the shoulder seam join to the top of the armhole along the top shoulder seam.
- What are the prices for suits, shirts, pants?
Prices depend on the custom collection category you intend to order from. Click here to view a complete price list. The workmanship or construction of the custom clothing is the same in all the collections. Prices include shipping to any part of the globe via International Couriers.
- What is a Peak Lapel?
With a Peak lapel , the lapel rises up and beyond the collar in creating a slight peak. The separation between the collar and the lapel is less than 1 degree as the lapel rises upwards and runs parallel to the outer rim of the collar. This positions the tip pointing towards the shoulders.
- What is the difference between a single breasted and a double breasted jacket?
Single-breasted refers to a jacket or similar garment having one row of buttons and a narrow overlap of fabric in the front. Double-breasted refers to a very wide overlap in the front and, usually, two parallel rows of buttons or snaps. In most cases one column of buttons is simply decorative. Only those at the outer edge of the overlap actually fasten the two layers together. The others, placed on the outside of the outer layer, either serve no purpose or allow the overlap to be reversible. The wide overlap puts extra fabric layers where the opening occurs to retain body heat. Pea coats and some trench coats are traditionally double-breasted.
- What is difference between "Slim or Snug Fit", "Athletic Cut" and "Full Fit"?
A snug fit garment fits close to the body and projects a natural shape. This is similar to the cut and shape of jackets made in the 50Â´s and 60Â´s, and very British in proportion with narrower armholes and sleeves. This is more suited to very slim and lanky physiques.
An athletic fit is wider at the shoulders and has more of an hourglass shape, narrowing at the waist for a steeper drop and then following the curvature of the hips, more like an Italian Cut. This is perfect for the well built body and the accent to the shoulders is well suited to those with wider shoulders and narrower, tighter torsos.
A full cut drapes and flows and minimizes the curves of the body. This is ideal for larger more substantial or Big and Tall physiques.
- How can I be sure of a perfect fit?
We have been online for three years but have been customizing apparel for three generations. So, we have a great deal of experience and knowledge in custom tailoring business. About half our online clients are repeat customers who were once new to us online. The only time we have problems delivering a perfect fit is when incomplete or incorrect information is sent to us. We sometimes receive suits that need very small adjustments to fully meet client expectations, usually in the form of adjustments to waist size, shorter sleeves, a longer inseam, etc.
We are very confident that our tailoring will meet any and all expectations.
When an order is delivered we are always accessible from anywhere in the world by email to resolve any issues you have with the quality of our work. We have never received a complaint about the timeliness of our response. It may take us 18 to 24 hours to reply to your inquiry, but we are fully committed to doing whatever it takes to get the order right. Our customer testimonials attest to the quality of our work.
Should there be any adjustments needed we will work with you to get them done as quickly as possible. We only ask that you cover shipping expenses associated with getting work completed.
One of the reasons we get the order right on a very consistent basis is the integrity of our measurement forms. They are comprehensive and exacting in getting your measurements accurately and efficiently. online. Apart from our measurement forms, we provide online video tutorials that assist you in taking the measurements. Clicking on the camera icon will play the short video for each measurement.
When we receive measurements, we review them carefully to check for possible errors and discrepancies. When we identify issues that need clarification or review, we get back to the client and ask for confirmation of certain measurements and supply guidelines for what we think certain proportions should be. Only after receiving confirmation do we complete the order. We request that clients send us front, back and side view images to serve as one more indication of a correct measurement profile.