Online Mens Tailor And Custom Tailoring
Common Questions about Product Features
32) How do I add custom choices such as monograms, buttons, lining, etc., to pieces selected in the wardrobe specials?
33) What is linen? Is it a good choice for custom garments?
34) What does NOA mean?
35) What are off-site purchases?
36) What is a button down collar?
37) What is a split back on jackets?
38) I want monograms, working sleeve buttons, and hand stitched/pick stitched lapels. Is this possible?
39) I want to order a poplin, cotton, wool, silk suit/shirt?
40) What are hand stitched lapels and pockets?
- I would like to order a suit/shirt in white/cream/blue/yellow/pink/orange or in a color not shown on your site. What Fabric is best for such a garment?
We can certainly make a suit/shirt/tuxedo or even a coat, custom made in white/cream/blue/yellow/pink/orange or in any other color currently not displayed on our website.
We recommend fabrics such as 119, 128, 120, 116, 1011 and other silks and linens as ideal for a custom garment in special colors.
The fabric search function on the left menu can be used to type in the word ´silk´ or ´linen´ to conduct a search for all the materials with unusual colors. If the specific color you want is not found, please email us us with the color requirement so that we can source it for your particular order.
If a white/off-white/cream/ivory/other color suit or shirt is required in any of the fabrics and is not displayed in the color palette when choosing the fabric, we will find an appropriate source and get it.
In the case of white/off-white/cream/ivory colors, proceed to the appropriate category or collection and select the item you would like to have made. Then select the style you like and on the subsequent page, select the fabric. Then, for the sake of order placement, select a color from the palette. If you don´t see the color you want, go to the next page which is the special request section and specify the color you prefer. All displayed styles in each collection can be made in your preferred color. - How do I add custom choices such as monograms, buttons, lining, etc., to pieces selected in the wardrobe specials?
All accessories are selected separately by clicking the shopping cart icon on the top right of the page and choosing the accessories link next to each item in the package. - What is linen? Is it a good choice for custom garments?
A Pure Linen Suit is a wonderful garment. While it wrinkles easily, it represents a leisure image suit that no other fabric provides. Think casual, leisure, elegant, sporty, landed gentry, sunny, young, summer, tropical and mix it all up into a cocktail and that is the effect a pure Linen Suit gives.
We recommend pure Linen for summer suits if you can live with the wrinkles. Linen was originally made as a fabric for suits that would be worn only once before they would be dry cleaned and steam pressed. In fact, it is the wrinkles in a Linen Suit that give it great character. Even with the wrinkles, Linen always looks good and falls well in giving an excellent silhouette. - What does NOA mean?
NOA means NO Allowance or it designates Finished Sizes. When measurements are submitted, they are deemed to have been taken directly from the body (unless otherwise specified) and so require additional allowances from 0.5 inches to 6 inches for comfort and freedom of movement. These amount of these allowances depends on the overall size of the wearer and the type of garment chosen. The acronym NOA signifies that a particular number is the Finished Measurement for the relevant dimension/area of the garment. A waist measurement of 42 NOA for pants means that the actual waist of the pants has been finished at 42 inches.
When you see a NOA size in your measurements portfolio, this indicates that the finished size of the relevant dimension is the indicated number. If you wish to denote that a certain part of the garment should be finished at XYZ inches, simply add the term NOA at the end of that number.
Alternatively you can use the lower portion of the measurements forms to indicate which of the measurements have been taken from a garment (and not from the body) so that the finished garment we construct has the same finished size as the garment you measured from.
If all the measurements you submit are taken from a garment that fits you well, simply use the Send Sizes to Copy forms linked from the Measurements Portfolio in your account. - What are off-site purchases?
These are purchases made using promotions, emailed offers, and products bought on our auctions. In essence, these are all purchases not made directly from our website. - What is a button down collar?
The button-down collar has small buttons at the tips of the points. It is a characteristic collar style of the "preppy" look first popularized in the 1960s. Few people currently wearing button-down collars are aware of its historical origins. The button-down collar is an American adaptation of shirts worn by English polo players. It was introduced by John Brooks in 1900 after he observed English polo players wearing them to prevent collar flapping during a match. Polo players at first wore formal cotton dress shirts with the collars buttoned down to prevent flapping from becoming a distraction during matches. Today, the button-down collar is a staple of American men´s wear but is much less common in Great Britain. - What is a split back on jackets?
A split back is created when the seam at the center of the back is fitted with a pleat exactly on the seam. This pleat opens and closes with the movement of the arms forwards and backwards. This feature, from the 50s and 60s, gives the jacket a safari look. The pleat runs from the center of the back a few inches below the neck to approximately the back of the waist. There is a small additional cost for this feature. Use our Style Search function and type in the words ´split back´ in the keywords search field criteria to bring up styles with this feature. - I want monograms, working sleeve buttons, and hand stitched/pick stitched lapels. Is this possible?
Yes. These features are what distinguish a truly custom made garment from off-the-rack products. There is a small fee for these optional added value features. All these features and more, can be ordered via the accessories section of the order placement process. - I want to order a poplin, cotton, wool, silk suit/shirt?
We can certainly make a suit/shirt or even a coat, custom made in poplin/cotton/wool/silk or any other fabric. Use the fabric-search function on the left menu and type in the word ´silk´ or ´poplin´ to conduct a quick search for materials and colors. If the specific fabric or color you are looking for is not found, email us with the color requirement so that we can source it for your particular order. - What are hand stitched lapels and pockets?
Hand stitched lapels and pockets are features that were first introduced when all suits were only hand made. At that time the two shells, outer and inner shells, were constructed separately and sewn together. The jacket edges were sewn in by hand to retain integrity and smooth out the edges. Hand sewing created small ripple effects on the jacket lapels and pockets which custom tailors today replicate as a style option. In high-end suits, this is done by machine stitching tiny ´dog tooth´ stitches on the lapels. We offer this as an optional feature in our suits and utilize the original hand sewn method. Click on ´hand stitched lapels and pockets´ to see the image of this effect on the finished product.