Online Mens Tailor And Custom Tailoring

Common Questions about Product Features

• What is a Mandarin Collar, a Thai Collar, and an Oiental Collar?
  These are styling features found mostly in shirts and sometimes in jackets. Mandarin Collars and Oriental Collars are sometimes referred to as Band Collars. A Mandarin collar is a band around the collar that meets up in the front. In this style, it clips closed together in the front above the buttons. An Oriental Collar is similar to the Mandarin collar where the two ends of the collar panel join in the front. A Thai Collar is of similar style but does not join in the front, creating a space between the two ends of the band above the first button in front.

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• How can I order custom-made denim jeans?.
  We make denim jeans to measure in light blue, dark blue and black. Two kinds of denim are available. Light weight, thin denim is ideal for pleated pants and heavier sturdy denims are ideal for typical 501 style classic jeans. All our denims are prewashed and preshrunk for maximum comfort and ideal fit.
  To order, visit our catalogs to check out available styles and colors.

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• What is the ´Allow us to make a Suggestion´ Feature?
  This special feature allows you to ask for suggestions from our expert tailors on helping you determine what custom made item best meets your wishes and needs. Our Master Tailors will ask a few basic questions on the included form, and you will receive answers and feedback within 24 hours. This is a great opportunity to get custom advice based on specific information you provide. Our tailors can make suggestions relative to fabric, style, color, pattern, and accessory suggestions for expanding your wardrobe.

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• What is manufactured – man made fabrics and manufactured fiber types?
  Manufactured fabrics are usually made of filaments extruded as liquid and formed into various fibers. Because many fibers start as a liquid, many of them are colored before they become filament. This makes the difficult to dye after the fiber is woven into a fabric.
  ACETATE is not a strong fiber but can be extruded into fibers of different diameter and woven into fabrics that have the luxurious look of silk but do not wear like silk. Acetate does not absorb moisture readily but dries fast and resists shrinking. This is a resilient fabric that resists wrinkling in addition to being pliable and soft with a good drape. Tri-acetate is an improved acetate fabric which doesn´t melt easily and is easier to care for. Remember, acetate in nail polish and nail polish remover will melt acetate as will alcohol so take care with perfumes and nail products including SuperGlue.
  ACRYLIC is a fine soft and luxurious fabric with the bulk and hand of wool. Light weight and springy, this fabric is non-allergenic, dries quickly, draws moisture away from the body and is washable. Acrylic will not take even a moderate amount of heat. Mod-acrylics are used in pile fabrics like fake fur and are more flame resistant.
  LASTEX is an elastic fiber made from Latex. It is most often used with other fibers to create fabrics such as Spandex and foundation garments. Lastex will deteriorate after repeated washing and drying, losing its elasticity.
  NYLON became a household word in 1940 when it was knitted into hosiery. In 1942 it was called into service for the armed forces use in parachutes, flak vests, combat uniforms, tires and many other vital military uses. Until the war was over nylon was not available to the public. Nylon became one of the most versatile fibers of the man-made fabrics. In addition to hosiery, nylon is used in tricot, netting for bridal veils, and in carpeting. Nylon is stronger yet weighs less than any other commonly used fiber. It is elastic and resilient and responsive to heat setting. Nylon fibers are smooth, non-absorbent and dry quickly. Dirt doesn´t cling to this smooth fiber nor is it weakened by chemicals and perspiration. Extensive washing and drying in an automatic dryer can eventually cause piling. Nylon whites should be washed separately to avoid graying. This fabric may yellow so it should be bleached frequently with sodium perborate bleach. Nylon melts at high temperatures. If ironing is necessary, always use a low temperature on the wrong side.
  Polyester is manufactured in many weights including fiber-fill used in pillows and upholstery. Threads spun from polyester fibers are strong, wear exceptionally well, and are used extensively in home sewing and manufactured sewing.
  RAYON from cellulose, has many of the qualities of cotton, a natural cellulose fiber. Rayon is strong, extremely absorbent, comes in a variety of qualities and weights, and can be made to resemble natural fabrics. Rayon does not melt but burns at high temperatures. Rayon drapes well, has a soft, silky hand, and has a smooth, napped, or bulky surface. Rayon will wrinkle easily and may stretch when wet and shrink when washed. Technological advancements to the rayon process have produced high wet modulus [HWM] rayons such as Lyocell and Modal which makes fabric less prone to stretch when damp or wet. Washable rayon will state the care on the fabric label. Like silk, if you pre-wash rayon fabric prior to construction of the garment, you have a washable garment.
  Here is a Glossary of Rayon Fabrics
  - Fibranne is a French term for Viscose rayon.
  - Velvet, although made from silk, is most often produced from the rayon fiber.
  - SPANDEX is an elastic type fiber that can be stretched many times its length and then spring back to the original length. Spandex is more resistant to washing, perspiration, and heat than latex. Spandex is used in foundation garments and hosiery.

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• Can you do big and tall size custom clothing?
  Yes. We are very experienced in working with very large sizes and helping these clients get the most comfortable, best fit possible. There is no extra charge for big and tall sizes.

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• What is Glen Plaid?
  Glen Plaid (or glenurquhart) is the genus and Prince of Wales Plaid is a species. Glen-Plaid refers only to the plaid pattern, whatever its color or scale. The particular rust-red, large-scale plaid described above is an old Scottish "district check" that was popularized by David, Prince of Wales, in the 1920s. Thus it came to be known as the "Prince of Wales Plaid." In later years, the terms came to be conflated, so that people would refer to any glen-plaid as a PoW plaid. But, technically, the true PoW plaid is the particular district check first popularized by the prince who became Edward VIII and then the Duke of Windsor. Keywords: glen-plaid, glen, plaid, glen plaid, check, squares, checks, checkered, checquered, plaids, Prince of Wales plaid, district check, prince of wales, jackets, sports, sports jackets, blazer, blazers, suit, suits, men´s, plaid suit, check suit, Prince of Wales Suit, plaid jacket, check jacket, prince of wales jacket, coat, coats, hunting jacket, plaid hunting jacket, check hunting jacket.

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• What is button stance?
  On jackets, blazers and coats the position where the first button starts on the chest is called a button stance. This is usually defined as a standard, low, or high button stance. A low button stance essentially means a longer gorge and a high button stance means a higher gorge.

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• What are Morning Pants?
  Morning Dress Pants are a specific category of men´s formal dress. They are worn with a Top Hat and Tails and are most frequently worn by male members of a wedding party. In common with Court Dress, Mess Dress and White Tie Dress, Morning Dress is usually reserved for particularly prestigious or very formal occasions. Despite the name, Morning Pants are usually worn any time before 5pm. It is also becoming increasingly common to continue wearing them into the evening. Morning Pants should not have turn-ups (cuffs), and should have one pleat to each leg. Braces should be worn to prevent the waistband from appearing beneath the waistcoat. Typically Morning Pants are charcoal grey with stripes and are worn with Dove Tail Morning Coats and White Waistcoats. We recommend the highest quality Exclusive and Deluxe Selections for Morning Pants. These fabric types are imported from Italy, France and the U.K., and are all pure wool and cashmere, unless otherwise specified.

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• Can I order shirts with contrast collars and cuffs? Can you make shirts with white collars and white cuffs?
  We can make to measure, almost any style of shirts or suits per your requirements. Dress shirts with contrast collars and cuffs or business shirts with white collars and cuffs are frequent requests and there is no additional charge. All fabrics and colors for shirts can be used with a white or contrasted collar and cuff. All collar styles and all types of Barrel or French Cuffs can be made in white or other contrasting colors with a different base color of the shirt.
  Use our Style search page and type in the words,´white collar´ or ´white cuffs´ in the keywords field to view these options.

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• What are Ticket Pockets?
  Ticket Pockets are Vintage Style Pockets found mostly on jackets, coats and suits. They originate from the days of train travel when gentleman often traveled by train and found this extra pocket useful for holding train tickets, cash, and coins. Ticket pockets are typically found on the outside of a jacket as slits with or without flaps, above the lower hip jacket pockets. On pants they are found as invisible/barely visible slits just under the waistband in the front a few inches from the pants opening.To review styles with ticket pockets, type in the words ´Ticket Pocket´ in the keywords field of our Style Search page.

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