Online Mens Tailor And Custom Tailoring

Common Questions about Product Features

• What is a Sulptured Collar?
  A Sculptured Collar, also called the Pat Riley Collar or a dove-tail collar, is found on some trendy shirt styles. It is a spread collar where the front edges of the collar curve away from each other in an arc. This gives the appearance of two semi-curved arcs in the front on the sides of the tie space. Review the Style search page and type in the words ´sculptured collar´ in the keywords field to view multiple shirt styles with this collar.

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• Can I make changes to styles that are displayed in the various collections?
  Yes. Click the special requests page that comes up for the style that comes closest to what you have selected.

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• What is PVC ? What is Pleather ?
  Pleather is PVC leather, also known as poly vinyl chloride, that is imitation leather. It is synthetic material.

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• What is wool? What are the different kinds of wool and their advantages?
  Wool fabric brings to mind cozy warmth. Some wool is scratchy giving some people the idea that they are "allergic" to wool. Although wool fiber comes from a variety of animal coats, not all wool is scratchy and some wool is extremely soft. The wool fibers have crimps or curls which create pockets to give wool a spongy feel. This quality often creates insulation for the wearer. The outside surface of wool fiber consists of a series of serrated scales which overlap each other much like the scales of a fish. This characteristic allows the fibers to cling together and produce felt. The same serrations will also cling together tightly when wool is improperly washed and that makes the material shrinks. Wool will not only return to its original position after being stretched or creased, it absorbs up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling damp. Its unique properties allow shaping and tailoring, making wool the most popular fabric for tailoring fine garments. Wool is also dirt resistant, flame resistant, and, in many weaves, resists wear and tearing.
  
  Basically, there are two different processes used in wool production. Woolen fabrics have a soft feel and fuzzy surface, very little shine or sheen, will not hold a crease, and are heavier and bulkier than worsted materials. Blankets, scarves, coats and some fabrics are considered woolens. Worsted wool is smoother than woolen, takes shine more easily, does not sag, holds a crease well, is lighter and less bulky, and wears longer than regular wool. Worsted wool requires a greater number of processes, during which fibers are arranged parallel to each other. The smoother, harder-surface worsted yarns produce smoother fabrics with a minimum of fuzziness and nap. Fine worsted wool is even seen in clothing for athletics such as tennis. No, they are not hotter than polyester but actually cooler, as the weave of the fabric allows wool to absorb perspiration and the fabric "breathes," unlike polyester.
  
  WOOL SPECIALTY FIBERS - although still classified as wool, they are further classified by the animal the fiber comes from:
  - Alpaca Fleece is very rich and silky with considerable luster. It comes from the Alpaca.
  - Mohair is from the Angora Goat and is highly resilient and strong. Mohair´s luster, not its softness, determines its value. Mohair is used in home decorating fabrics as well as garment fabrics including tropical worsted materials.
  - Angora Wool is from the Angora Rabbit. This soft fiber is used in sweaters, mittens and baby clothes.
  - Camel Hair comes from the extremely soft and fine fur from the undercoat of the camel. Camel´s hair can be used alone but is most often combined with fine wool for making overcoats, topcoats, sportswear and sports hosiery. Because of the beauty of the color, fabrics containing camel´s hair are usually left in the natural camel color or dyed a darker brown. Light weight and soft, 22 oz. camel fabric is as warm as a 32 oz. woolen fabric.
  - Cashmere comes from Cashmere Goat down. Separation of the soft fibers from the long, coarse hair is tedious and difficult, contributing to the expense of the fabric. The soft hair is woven or knitted into fine garments and is blended with silk, cotton, or wool.
  - Vicuna is the softest coat cloth in the world. The amount of coarse hair to be separated from the soft fibers is negligible and yields the finest animal fiber in the world. Vicuna is a member of the Llama family and is small and wild. Since it is generally killed to obtain the fleece, it is protected by rigorous conservation measures. This fiber is rare and very expensive, costing several hundred dollars per yard.

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• I have a shirt I want sizes taken from. How is this accomplished?
  Please contact us with the following shirt sizes taken from your perfect fitting shirt:
  a. The length of the shirt in front
  b. The length of the shirt in the back
  c. Chest circumference at the point where the arm hole joins the torso.
  Take the measurement across the front of the chest and across the back in the same line separately and email us the separate measurements.
  d. Stomach circumference at the middle of the shirt where it tapers to its narrowest.
  Take the measurement across the front of the stomach/waist and the back in the same line, separately please.
  e. Hips circumference at the bottom of the shirt at the highest point of the tails and once again, the front half and the back half should be taken seperately
  f. Shoulder width from where the shoulder and sleeve seams join on one side to the other
  g. Sleeve length from the point where shoulder and sleeve join to the lowest edge of the cuffs
  h. Neck circumference from center of button to center of button hole.
  i. Cuff circumference from center of button to center of button hole as well as from one outer edge of the cuff to the other outer edge of the cuff.
  j. The height of the cuffs
  k. The length of the collar points in front, the height of the collar at the back and the height of the collar band in the front and in the back.
  l. The width of the back yoke where the joint across the back joins from one arm to the other
  m. The under arm length where the armhole and chest join to the edge of the cuff under the sleeves.
  n. The distance of collar and first button and the distance of first and second button and the total number of buttons on the shirt.
  o. The style of the collar and the cuffs.
  Having these measurements will help us correctly custom make the shirt to your exact specifications. Your order can then be placed via our website in the normal manner.

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• Are your jackets hand-basted or fused? Can you do hand-basted canvas fronts? Are shirt collars fused? What about the seams? We use a mix of traditional old-world construction and modern techniques in the construction of our jackets/coats/shirts. Normally, the panel interlinings in our suits and coats are a combination of fusion and canvas. The top-breast panels are fused and incorporate hand-basted canvas interlinings for added support and the lower half of the jacket front is fused for increased flow and drape. We prepare full canvas or full fusion interlinings on jackets and coats if this is desired, for a small premium. Only the finest threads are used for hand-basting so that the outer shell of the jackets and coats seem to float on the body when worn. All our shirt collars are double fused for added durability and stiffness for top of the line construction quality.
  
  Here are some of the TRUE MARKS OF OUR BESPOKE SHIRTS:
  - All our shirts are sewn with a minimum of 12 to 18 stitches per inch, depending on the fabric being used, with full single needle construction resulting in strong, flat seams that do not separate.
  - Premium interlinings are fused into the collar and cuffs, giving a smooth, even appearance.
  - Our shirt collars are hand-cut and hand-turned.
  - Built-in stay pockets prevent the removable stay from showing through the fabric.
  - Sleeve-to-cuff pleating gives balance to the sleeves.
  - Pearl coated Mylar buttons are cross stitched for extra strength.
  - Hand-finishing and hand-pressing insure individual attention to each shirt.
  
  Our clothes are made to wear well and look good for years. Off-the-rack clothing is made close to the edge in every seam; our custom clothing is made with large margins. If needed, pant waists can be increased by three inches and jackets can be expanded by three to four inches. We maintain a high standard of QUALITY AND WORKMANSHIP with dedication to customer service.
  Click Here to find out more about our standards of custom garment construction.

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• When, how, and where do I submit my measurements?
  There are two ways measurements can be submitted. You can set up a measurements profile at our website by logging into your account and setting up a profile before placing the order. The other way is to place the order and on the last page, after the order is submitted, you will find a link for submitting your measurements. You can also print out our Measurements Forms and fax them to us at +66 2 650 0956 before or after an order has been placed. Remember to include your name, email address and Customer ID number with the faxed documents.

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• What is the Buy-a-Gift feature?
  This feature allows you to place gift orders and purchase certificates that can be redeemed for custom clothing. You can specify custom garments or certain styles and let the recipient submit his/her measurements. Or, you can select a particular item and let the recipient choose the style, fabric and color. If selecting a fixed value gift, a link to our home page will be emailed to the recipient along with any message you want delivered. You would select the option of sending the home page link on the recipient´s information submission page. If a particular item is being given, the recipient would be directed to the appropriate section in the Collection Category that describes the item you specify. After choosing the items, select the "buy a gift" feature from the menu on your left. You will be taken to the page where the recipients information needs to be submitted and a link to the page you came from will be emailed to the recipient. You need to select the option to email a link from the page you came from on this form.
  
  If you would like to have the gift delivered to you so you can personally give it to the recipient, DO NOT use the "buy a gift" feature. Simply add the recipients measurements into the MY ACCOUNT feature. After the measurements have been added to your account and this profile given a name, you can then order the custom made-to-measure gift to be delivered directly to you by simply placing the item in your shopping cart. This feature also enables you to add profiles of friends or family members into your account so that combined orders can be placed at the same time.
  
  The following policies apply to this process:
  A. If a certificate or swatch payment redemption coupon if lost, it is irrecoverable. It is the receivers responsibility
  to retain and save the coupon or certificate for subsequent use at our site.
  B. Certificate or redemption coupons cannot be exchanged for cash.
  C. A certificate or redemption coupon cannot be utilized or redeemed with an order already placed.
  Coupons or certificates only be redeemed for subsequent orders.
  

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• What is fabric popularity and how is it judged?
  Our assessment of fabric popularity depends on many factors such as price, personal tastes, color, availability, and other such issues. Fabric popularity does not in any way imply that any fabric with low popularity is an inferior material. All our fabrics are high grade fabrics that have gone through extensive quality testing prior to being offered on our website.
  The more a fabric is selected by a client the higher its popularity is assessed to be. Use our Fabric Search pages to access our most popular fabrics and materials.
  You can also access fabrics using composition, climate, weight and pattern criteria.

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• What is a Notch Lapel?
  On a coat, a notch is a cut between the collar and the lapel. A Notch lapel is a 45 to 90 degree angle of separation between the collar and the lapel at the point where they join. The collar is the piece that goes around the neck and the lapel is the piece that sits on the front of the chest. In a Notch lapel, there is a wide space separating the outer most tip of the collar from the outer most tip of the lapel.

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