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Athletic Cut Custom Suit And Dress Shirt

bespoke suits 

ATHLETIC BUILD

For the man of average height whose chest size is at least eight inches more than his waist size, the principle is to reproportion the oversized shoulder with the smaller bottom. Jackets

  1. Shoulders should be as unpadded and natural-looking as possible.
  2. Jackets need length to balance the strong shoulder without shortening the leg line.
  3. Minimal waist suppression.
  4. Two-button single-breasted over double-breasted-avoid three-button single-breasted.
  5. Lapels should be full with slight belly.
  6. Flap on pockets.
  7. Side vents or no vents.
  8. Fabrics should de-emphasize bulk: solid worsteds, herringbones, vertical windowpanes, subtle stripe with no less than 3/4 inch spacing.

Trousers

  1. To fill out the jacket, Trouser must be worn as high on waist as comfortable.
  2. Full cut through hip and thigh with taper to 1 ¾" cuff.
  3. Trouser leg should have definite break on shoe.

Accessories

Assuming a broad face and thick neck:

  1. Vertical shirt collar such as tab or long points.
  2. Solid, striped, or patterned neckwear.
  3. Shirt with strong stripes.
  4. Shoes with larger scale to balance shoulders.

THE DRESS SHIRT

THE DRESS SHIRT COLLAR

When purchasing a dress shirt that is, one intended to be worn with a necktie - consider its collar first. Regardless of whether the shirt appears to go perfectly with your new suits, or is meticulously crafted with vast numbers of stitches to the inch, or even woven in the Caribbean's most lustrous sea island cotton, if its high-banded collar looks at if it might swallow up your neck or its diminutive collar make your already prominent chin appear more so, move on. You need to focus on that portion of the dress shirt responsible for exhibiting to best advantage the body part that should receive the most attention - your face.

The triangle formed by the V opening of a buttoned tailored jacket and extending up to the area just below a person's chin is the cynosure of a man's costume. The area is usually accentuated by contrasts between the darker jacket and lighter shirt, the jacket and tie, and the tie and dress shirt. This triangular sector offers more visible layers of textural activity than any other part of a man's outfit, and the point at which all these elements converge is directly under one's chin, where the inverted V of the dress shirt collar comes to a point.

Think of your face as portrait and your shirt collar as its frame. The collar's height on your neck as well as the length and spread of its points should compliment the shape and size of your face. Within the infinite permutations of angle, scale, and mass, no single article of apparel better enhances a man's countenance than the well-designed dress shirt collar. Since a person's bone structure is fixed, although it will be affected by a weight gain or loss, the choice of collar should be guided by the individual's particular physical requirements rather than the vicissitudes of fashion. Unlike other less visible accoutrements such as hosiery or shirt cuffs, this focal point constitutes one of a man's most revealing gestures of personal style. All sophisticated dressers have arrives at one or more collar styles that best highlight their unique features while managing to add a bit of dash along the way.

Choosing the appropriate shirt collar requires experimentation and common sense. A smallish man with delicate features would be lost in a high-set collar with points longer than 3 ¼". Conversely, a heavyset or big-boned man would loom even larger and overshadow a small collar. Collars should counterbalance the facial structure by either softening its strong lines or strengthening its soft ones. Long straight point collars - those 3" or more - will extend and narrow a wide face just as the broad-spaced points of spread collars will offset the line of long narrow one.

Tab collars or other pinned collars have the necessary height to shorten long necks. Strong-chinned men require fuller proportioned collars, just as large tabletops clamor for ample pedestals to achieve aesthetic balance. Though, admittedly, button-downs can look casually stylish, they are too often favored by exactly the kind of men who should avoid them - the double chinned set. Softer-chinned men need slightly higher and firmer collars to compensate for the lack of a strong line under their face.

Throughout the eighties and up through the mid-nineties, most dress shirts-no matter how expensive-generally had collars that were to small for the average wearer's face. In an effort to convey a more casual and less structured formality, men's fashion has explored many approaches to neutralizing the collar's conventional starched and ordered format. Consequently, collars have been lowered, shortened, and softened to such degrees that the original precepts for their correct proportioning have either been distorted or lost completely. Button-downs have little or no roll, straight point collars are so short even the smallest tie knot prevents their point from touching the shirt's chest, while spread collars are so low on the neck they have been sapped of all their strength and flair. Except for those produced by a few high-end American, English, or Italian shirt makers, most dress shirts give the impression they are apologizing for their collars.

I cannot help but wonder whether the long-understood sartorial contract between a man and the conventional format of a buttoned-up dress shirt and drawn-up necktie - which, in effect, exchanged superior stature for a measure of restriction - is no longer able to be negotiated. Since many of the contemporary, more diminutive collar styles fail to heighten the wearer's appearance, they offer little compensation for their inherent discomfort. As a result, many alternatives have been put forth in an effort to replace the classic dress shirt collar composition.

However, as Oscar Schoeffler, longtime fashion editor of Esquire, once warned, "Never underestimate the power of what you wear. After all, there is just a small bit of you sticking out at the collar and cuff. The rest of what the world sees is what you drape on your frame." Therefore, the most important factor to weigh when buying a dress shirt isn't its color, fit, or price. It is the collar and its smartness for the wearer's face.

FIT

Other than the Italians, who are almost fetishistically meticulous about the fit of their dress shirts, most men wear theirs too short in the sleeve, too small in the collar, and too full around the wrist. The explanation for this is relatively straightforward: successive washings shrink collar size and sleeve length, while most shirting manufacturers allow enough breadth in a man's cuff to accommodate a large wrist girded by a Rolex-type watch.

The best dress shirt is useless if its collar does not fit comfortably. With the top button closed, you should be able to slide two-dress shirt. Most better dress shirt makers add an extra 0.5 inch to the stated collar size to allow for shrinkage within the first several washings. I would never wear a new dress shirt unless it fits perfectly around the neck in the store or when first tried on at home. If this not be the case, it is best return it or risk being strangled by a smaller collar before too very long.

The back of the shirt collar should be high enough to show 0.5 inches above the rear portion of the jacket's collar. Its points should be able to touch the shirt's body and rest smoothly on its front. When a tie is fitted up into the collar, its points should be long enough to remain in contact with the shirt's body, regardless of how sharply the wearer turns his head. No part of the collar's band should be able to be seen peeking over the tie's knot. Semi spread to cutaway collars should have no tie space above the tie's knot. In other words, both sides of the collar's inverted V should meet or touch each other while the edges of their point should be covered by both sides of the jacket's lapels.


We invite you to check out some of our other useful custom tailoring related information:



funeral home

funeral home

    As a custom tailoring company for both men and women in all service industries, we take great pride in understanding every single one of our client’s needs. As the years have gone by we have seen more and more people in the funeral and burial industry coming in for hand tailored suits that are more work-friendly. At first glance a funeral home might not seem like the kind of place where looks and your clothing may matter, but the truth is that in any business appearance is important and as a funeral director you know that a funeral home is certainly no exception, and that formal suits for funerals are always part of the job’s dress code. When a client comes to you with the intention to lay a loved one to rest they expect you to not only look professional, but they also look to see if you have a sophistication about you because then they will know that they can trust you to ensure that a funeral for a loved one will never come off as tacky or unprofessional. Many funeral directors understand this and strive to always look their best in a classic dark suit for funerals. It is understandable why this has also meant giving up comfort, because working any job in a funeral home can be rather demanding and we all know that suits are not exactly made for a busy working man that needs to constantly be on the move. The good news is that we can offer you a little help with both your style and your comfort. As a custom tailors who have been in business for many decades with expert tailors, it is easy for us to understand your need for both style and comfort all while remaining respectful. Imagine yourself in a gorgeous hand tailored funeral suit and your reliable staff in dapper comfortable matching funeral home uniforms all made to measure by industry professionals specifically for them, and best of all at a price you can certainly afford. With our promise of the latest styles, all day comfort, and affordability when it comes to our suits for funeral professionals we also guarantee quality in every stylish formal suit that we hand tailor.



Classic dark suit for funerals

Classic dark suit for funerals

    As someone who works in a funeral home, your see your classic black suit as a type of funeral uniform that you need to wear to work. Many people might not understand just how much thought goes in to choosing the most stylish yet comfortable and respectful funeral home uniform or funeral suit as a funeral director. When it comes to finding stylish yet respectful formal suits for funerals, the truth is that there is a lot of pressure for you as a funeral director or a staff member at a funeral home to look at your very best always in the most appropriate manner.

    Most funeral directors opt for a traditional black funeral suit and their funeral home staff dress in the same classic dark suits for funerals. Not that there’s anything wrong with this classic look, it works and its always very simply to pull off, but that also means that it is all you ever see people in the funeral home and burial industry wearing. If you ever get tired of the classic look, you will be happy to hear that it is definitely not the only option you have when it comes to what you can wear to work. How about a little color? This might sound crazy, but we’re certainly not suggesting a bright orange suit or a lemon yellow tie. How about you add a little character to your work wardrobe by adding a few custom hand tailored suits in beautifully subtle colors such as dark greys, charcoal, and a slick dark navy. If you’re a little nervous about wearing a dark grey suit or navy suit, you could also try an accessory such as a handkerchief or tie instead. The really daring might just even pull off a lightly pinstripe suit.

    Of course, color is not the only style component to consider when picking out suits for funeral directors, the cut and style of the suit itself is important. A tuxedo is a popular mistake made by many for funerals, what people don’t understand is that a tuxedo suit is more of a festive piece than it will ever be for working a funeral. Another choice of suits that we would not recommend for someone who is on their feet all day is a double breasted suit or a full three piece suit. This is because although these two formal suit styles fit the part when it comes to mourning aesthetics, they may be a little harder to keep looking neat all day long as a funeral director.

    A style the you can always count on is the classic single breasted suit made up of a pair of hand tailored suit pants, a crisp white dress shirt, topped off with a classic single breasted suit jacket. A made to measure suit of such ravishing esteem will look great on you and the families you work with will appreciate you more for the extra effort you take to look good for them at such a difficult time. We can hand tailor stylish bespoke suits for funerals that not only look great on you, but are also tailored from the worlds finest and most breathable fabrics that are comfortable to wear any time of the year for long periods of extensive work.

Our elegantly designed and tailored suits for funeral professionals are so soft, comfortable, and easy to care for, you’ll be very happy you invested in this made to measure burial suit. As someone who has to spend most of their day on their feat doing all kinds of different tasks, you need a black funeral suit that is comfortable enough for you to work with ease. As long as the day gets, when you work a job that is not only asking a lot from you physically but also emotionally, you deserve to at the very least be dressed as comfortably as possible. It is definitely no secret at all that off the rack suits do not exactly offer the most comfort throughout the day. What you may not realise is that this is because most of the rack suits are cheaply manufactured with poor fabric quality as they are made for a working class that primarily sits at a desk all day and they are also not manufactured to last you any longer than a few months. This is why after a few trips to the cleaners your black funeral suit may begin to fray, the color may begin to fade, and the fit of the suit may also feel a little uncomfortable.

Burial suit and funeral suit

Burial suit and funeral suit






Suit hand tailored and made to measure funeral suit

Suit hand tailored and made to measure funeral suit



    Our solution for you is a suit hand tailored specifically for you and your lifestyle. We have been custom tailoring garments for industry professionals for three generations and we truly understand what fabrics work best for your busy work life. There is certainly always so much that goes into tailoring a great suit; like many things it takes years of experience to understand the very anatomy of the garment and how best it fits a client. This is what we do, for every dress shirt or formal suit jacket we stitch together we try to understand how this piece of clothing will fit into your life and how it will benefit you as a funeral director or as a funeral home staff member. Our best solution is that each piece of this made to measure suit should be made from a fabric that is soft to the touch, wrinkle resistant, stain resistant, easy to clean, breathable, light in the warm summer months but cosy enough for a chilly day. We travel all over the world looking for the best possible cloths for suits for funeral directors and we use these fabrics to create stylish, breathable, comfortable, and affordable funeral director suits and funeral home staff uniforms.

    An off the rack dark suit for funerals may seem appealing to you when it comes to suits for funerals because it is generally a less expensive then getting a fully made to measure funeral suit for a funeral director or for someone who works in a funeral home. The truth is that although yes, most off the rack suits are cheaper than a hand tailored custom suit for funeral professionals, but after only a few weeks you begin to see why. Off the rack suits are not worth your hard earned money, but our hand tailored suits are. We do our best to make everything that we custom tailor affordable for you while still offering you garments that will not begin to fray after only one wash.


Funeral suits rose



    We are offering you the highest quality fabrics hand tailored into burial suits and exquisite staff uniforms for all your funeral home employees. It takes a lot of money to run a business, and with a funeral home sometimes the profit is a little slim, which is why we are offering you special prices on suits for funeral directors and staff uniforms for the dedicated staff team that keeps your funeral home working like a well-oiled machine. This also means that you as a funeral home director can start thinking about branding your business through unique funeral home staff uniforms that are made to measure perfectly for every member of staff without going over your budget. Just as style and comfort are a priority for us when it comes to funeral homes that order any of our elegant dark suits for funerals, affordability will also always be at the top of our list.
    Basically, yours is a one of a kind business that caters to people at a very difficult time in their lives. It is imperative to look professional, sober, gentle and compassionate on your job. As funeral home directors and funeral home staff you need funeral suits and uniforms that are understated yet elegant, sober yet stylish, affordable, and most importantly comfortable. As a world renowned custom tailoring company we at My Custom Tailor not only understand your needs but we will always do our very best to meet them exactly per your requirements and requests. We are constantly on the hunt for the latest and best possible suit styles out there for the working man. We always do our best to deliver the most fitting option for our clients.



Special prices to funeral directors

Special prices to funeral directors

    For a funeral director this would mean something stylish but not over the top so that it always remains a respectful suit. We do the exact same thing for your staff, we only source the finest fabrics to create gorgeous staff uniforms that are sophisticated for the staff in your home. As well as style, we definitely stress comfort. This is because we know that as someone who may run or work at a funeral home you are constantly on your feet and also moving things around, for example when you are preparing a venue for a funeral or memorial service. This means that you not only need a suit that looks good, but it needs to so comfortable that it almost feels like a second skin. You need a suit that fits so well you never have to worry about it busting open or feeling so heavy you mistaken it for a wet blanket. We offer you variety and quality all in one stop, a suit you can wear day in and day out. We also offer affordability. It is no secret that getting a custom bespoke suit could cost you a pretty penny or two. We believe that everyone deserves to own at least one made to measure suit, especially people who work in this form of formal clothing every day, it is easy for us to help you out when it comes to a reliable beautiful formal uniform for both men and women.

    We offer special prices to funeral directors for hand tailored elegant suits and also for men and women’s made to measure funeral home staff uniforms. Take advantage of our great offer of suits for funeral professionals custom tailored for comfort, style and affordability. Order yourself a great custom made garment today!





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