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Bespoke Mens Dress And Business Shirt

bespoke shirts 


The band of linen between coat sleeve and hand is another one of those stylistic gestures associated with the better-dressed man. It has been so ever since the first aristocrat wore his lace ruffles spilled out from beneath his jacket cuffs. Some fashion historian mark the decline in modern men's style from the point at which ready-made buttoned cuffs replaced cuff-linked ones and men found their wrists swathed in excess fabric, which either fell down their wrists or pulled up too short.

Whether you choose a button cuff or a French cuff, the shirt cuff should fit snugly around the wrist so that the additional length required to keep it from moving as the arm stretches does not fall down over the hand. If you can slide your hand though the cuff opening without first unfastening it, it is too large. If the sleeve is long enough and the cuff fits correctly, you should be able to move your arm in any direction without influencing how the cuff sits on top of your hand. The shirt cuff and hand should be able to move as a unit.


During the 1960s peacock era, when dress shirts had the fit of a second skin and were worn to flaunt the chest and arm muscles, the wearer had to pay particular attention to gaping shirtfronts if he inhaled too deeply or Sat down. Today, with comfort driving the fit of men's clothes, issues such as these are no longer of much concern.

The shirt should certainly be full enough to allow its wearer to sit without concern. Normal shrinkage or a slight weight gain should not render it uncomfortable across the chest or waist. Since shirts with blousier fits tend to have lower arm holes, one should pay attention that the jacket's armhole does not pull up the shirtsleeve, making it too short to rest on the top of the hand. A shirt's armhole should fit comfortably up into the armpit for easier movement and consistent length. The shirt's overall length should be such that you can raise your arms without pulling the garment out of the trouser top.


The most expensive component of any dress shirt is its fabric. As the layer in closest contact with the wearer's skin, the most comfortable and luxurious fiber to wear is unquestionably 100 percent cotton. Anyone doubting this need only examine the fiber content of almost all men's undergarments.

Better dress shirts are made in two-ply cotton or two-fold yarns, less expensive ones in single-ply. Cotton-poly blends are never two-ply, therefore these fabric tend to be found only in cheaper shirts. In a true two-ply fabric, the yarns used in the vertical warp and horizontal weft are made from two fibers long enough to twist around each other to produce the incremental strength, silk ness, and luster associated with the two-fold luxury fabric. The finer the yarn, the higher its threads per-inch count. Two-ply fabrics start at 80/2 (the 2 representing two-ply) and progress to as fine as 220/2 (which feels more like silk than cotton and is so expensive it is use only in custom-made shirts). Since two-ply dress shirt are costlier, most manufacturers will include this designation on the label. If it is not so designated, it usually means the shirt is of a single-ply fabric and its cost should reflect this.

Most two-ply dress shirts begin retailing at $75 for those privately labeled in large department stores and go to well over $200 for those more highly crafted with finer-count two-ply fabrics. This is not to suggest that single-ply dress shirts are necessarily inferior to or automatically less desirable than two-ply versions. Since we know how a poorly designed collar can scuttle the most expensive dress shirt, the two-ply designation reflects a garment's intrinsic quality and not its relative value.

The better dress shirt is one of the few products whose craft has been relatively uncompromised by modern manufacturing technology. Due to the many pieces that must be put together and the exacting sewing procedures required, there is no substitute for the skilled, highly trained labor needed to produce a fine dress shirt. As it is not covered over by linings and such, a dress shirt's construction, with the exception of collar and cuff, can be more easily evaluated than that of tailored clothing or neckties. All of its stitching, seams, and finishing are plainly exposed to the inquiring eye, especially if one knows what to look for and why.

There can be some details of workmanship that, should even one be found present, signal your investigation is at an end and the shirt's dearer price has been confirmed. Most of these benchmarks are holdovers from a less mechanized age when the standards for deluxe quality were set by bespoke shirt makers. No manufacturer would willingly invest in the labor required to make such a shirt without ensuring the fabric was of a quality that justified the product's retail price. He would be hard-pressed to recoup the cost of such craftsmanship if it was wasted on a shirt composed of inferior cloth.

The handmade buttonhole is a detail rarely found in shirt made outside of France or Italy. If you have a shirt with handmade buttonholes it represents a piece of workmanship that literally comes from the old country. Now, some custom shirt makers will argue in favor of a fine machine-made buttonhole over a handmade one, but handmade buttonholes are a mark of top-drawer threads. Ironically, their imperfect and visible portion can only identify them. As with legitimate custom tailored clothes, buttonholes are to be handmade, nothing less.

When dress shirts were worn closely fitted to the torso, their side seams were much in evidence and their width and finishing were considered two of the most important criteria for judging their shirt making craft. I can recall visiting Italy during the sixties and observing the Romans wrapped in their skintight, darted blue voile shirt with side seams that seemed to disappear into minute lines that traced the body. These side seams were of a single-needle construction. If the shirt you are considering has this feather, you are no doubt holding a garment that will command a better price.

Single-needle side seams are sewn twice, once up and once down the shirt's seam, using only one needle and leaving just a single row of stitches visible on the outside. This is time-consuming and requires greater skill on the part of the operator than other seams. Most shirts' side seams are sewn on a double-needle machine, which is much faster and produces two rows of visible stitching. Unfortunately, the double-needle side seam can, depending on the quality of its execution, pucker over time due to the thread and fabric's different reactions to washing. However, since most modern shoppers are not that informed, the single-needle side seam is rarely found on ready-made shirts, and is almost exclusively reserved for those dress shirts found in the world of the bespoke.

Another telltale sign of an expensively made dress shirt can be found in the bottom tail's design and finishing. Charvet, the famed French chemisier, designs its shirts with a square bottom and side slits or vents, which they feel produce less bulk under the trouser. They also believe their deeper sides keep the shirt better anchored. Turnbull and Asser, the Jermyn Street shirt maker, prefers the rounded bottom but reinforces its side seam at the bottom with a small triangular gusset. Either of these designs demands greater labor and expertise than the typical hemmed bottom. Prior to World War II, the gusset was a common feature on better shirts, but production costs forced many manufacturers to abandon this old-fashioned finishing technique.

The next nuance of detail that signals a dress shirt's loftier pedigree is the direction of its sleeve placket's buttonhole. All better shirts come with a small placket button and buttonhole to close the opening running up the inside sleeve from its cuff. However, a horizontally sewn buttonhole is evidence of meticulous crafting, since the button must be lined up perfectly with the buttonhole, unlike a vertical placement, which allows a greater margin for error. Since this detail is easily detectable, it can make any examination a short one.

The last sure giveaway of rarefied shirt making can only be detected in a shirt made of a striped fabric. Should the stripe of its sleeve line up exactly with the horizontal line of the yoke's stripe when they meet at the shoulder seams, you are in the presence of shirt making art. Generally, this kind of work is reserved for the custom-made dress shirt, but should you find it in one ready-made, be prepared to pay at least $150.

The next passel of workmanship details should be present on all deluxe-priced ($125 and up) dress shirts whether they are representing themselves as better ready-to-wear, made-to-measure, or even custom-made. While it is more difficult for the beginner to identify these details once learned, less well-made dress shirts become much easier to spot.

The stitching on a shirt's collar and cuffs should be so fine as to be nearly invisible. If you can clearly see each individual stitch sitting on top pf the fabric, its manufacturer is less costly. All better dress shirt collars have removable stays. The shape or pattern on either side of a shirt's collar parts or cuffs should match exactly. Pockets should be lined up so that they virtually vanish from sight. Buttonholes should be finished so that it is difficult to see their individual stitches. Buttons should be cross-stitched for extra strength, an operation that cannot be performed by machine.

Real pearl buttons are to fine shirt what authentic horn buttons are to expensive sports jackets. If a sewing machine needle hits a plastic button, the button shatters; should that same needle strike a pearl button, the needle shatters. Authentic mother-of-pearl buttons, especially thicker ones, are incredibly sensual to the hand and eye, as well as costing ten times the price of the typical plastic button.

We invite you to check out some of our other useful custom tailoring related information:

funeral home

funeral home

    As a custom tailoring company for both men and women in all service industries, we take great pride in understanding every single one of our client’s needs. As the years have gone by we have seen more and more people in the funeral and burial industry coming in for hand tailored suits that are more work-friendly. At first glance a funeral home might not seem like the kind of place where looks and your clothing may matter, but the truth is that in any business appearance is important and as a funeral director you know that a funeral home is certainly no exception, and that formal suits for funerals are always part of the job’s dress code. When a client comes to you with the intention to lay a loved one to rest they expect you to not only look professional, but they also look to see if you have a sophistication about you because then they will know that they can trust you to ensure that a funeral for a loved one will never come off as tacky or unprofessional. Many funeral directors understand this and strive to always look their best in a classic dark suit for funerals. It is understandable why this has also meant giving up comfort, because working any job in a funeral home can be rather demanding and we all know that suits are not exactly made for a busy working man that needs to constantly be on the move. The good news is that we can offer you a little help with both your style and your comfort. As a custom tailors who have been in business for many decades with expert tailors, it is easy for us to understand your need for both style and comfort all while remaining respectful. Imagine yourself in a gorgeous hand tailored funeral suit and your reliable staff in dapper comfortable matching funeral home uniforms all made to measure by industry professionals specifically for them, and best of all at a price you can certainly afford. With our promise of the latest styles, all day comfort, and affordability when it comes to our suits for funeral professionals we also guarantee quality in every stylish formal suit that we hand tailor.

Classic dark suit for funerals

Classic dark suit for funerals

    As someone who works in a funeral home, your see your classic black suit as a type of funeral uniform that you need to wear to work. Many people might not understand just how much thought goes in to choosing the most stylish yet comfortable and respectful funeral home uniform or funeral suit as a funeral director. When it comes to finding stylish yet respectful formal suits for funerals, the truth is that there is a lot of pressure for you as a funeral director or a staff member at a funeral home to look at your very best always in the most appropriate manner.

    Most funeral directors opt for a traditional black funeral suit and their funeral home staff dress in the same classic dark suits for funerals. Not that there’s anything wrong with this classic look, it works and its always very simply to pull off, but that also means that it is all you ever see people in the funeral home and burial industry wearing. If you ever get tired of the classic look, you will be happy to hear that it is definitely not the only option you have when it comes to what you can wear to work. How about a little color? This might sound crazy, but we’re certainly not suggesting a bright orange suit or a lemon yellow tie. How about you add a little character to your work wardrobe by adding a few custom hand tailored suits in beautifully subtle colors such as dark greys, charcoal, and a slick dark navy. If you’re a little nervous about wearing a dark grey suit or navy suit, you could also try an accessory such as a handkerchief or tie instead. The really daring might just even pull off a lightly pinstripe suit.

    Of course, color is not the only style component to consider when picking out suits for funeral directors, the cut and style of the suit itself is important. A tuxedo is a popular mistake made by many for funerals, what people don’t understand is that a tuxedo suit is more of a festive piece than it will ever be for working a funeral. Another choice of suits that we would not recommend for someone who is on their feet all day is a double breasted suit or a full three piece suit. This is because although these two formal suit styles fit the part when it comes to mourning aesthetics, they may be a little harder to keep looking neat all day long as a funeral director.

    A style the you can always count on is the classic single breasted suit made up of a pair of hand tailored suit pants, a crisp white dress shirt, topped off with a classic single breasted suit jacket. A made to measure suit of such ravishing esteem will look great on you and the families you work with will appreciate you more for the extra effort you take to look good for them at such a difficult time. We can hand tailor stylish bespoke suits for funerals that not only look great on you, but are also tailored from the worlds finest and most breathable fabrics that are comfortable to wear any time of the year for long periods of extensive work.

Our elegantly designed and tailored suits for funeral professionals are so soft, comfortable, and easy to care for, you’ll be very happy you invested in this made to measure burial suit. As someone who has to spend most of their day on their feat doing all kinds of different tasks, you need a black funeral suit that is comfortable enough for you to work with ease. As long as the day gets, when you work a job that is not only asking a lot from you physically but also emotionally, you deserve to at the very least be dressed as comfortably as possible. It is definitely no secret at all that off the rack suits do not exactly offer the most comfort throughout the day. What you may not realise is that this is because most of the rack suits are cheaply manufactured with poor fabric quality as they are made for a working class that primarily sits at a desk all day and they are also not manufactured to last you any longer than a few months. This is why after a few trips to the cleaners your black funeral suit may begin to fray, the color may begin to fade, and the fit of the suit may also feel a little uncomfortable.

Burial suit and funeral suit

Burial suit and funeral suit

Suit hand tailored and made to measure funeral suit

Suit hand tailored and made to measure funeral suit

    Our solution for you is a suit hand tailored specifically for you and your lifestyle. We have been custom tailoring garments for industry professionals for three generations and we truly understand what fabrics work best for your busy work life. There is certainly always so much that goes into tailoring a great suit; like many things it takes years of experience to understand the very anatomy of the garment and how best it fits a client. This is what we do, for every dress shirt or formal suit jacket we stitch together we try to understand how this piece of clothing will fit into your life and how it will benefit you as a funeral director or as a funeral home staff member. Our best solution is that each piece of this made to measure suit should be made from a fabric that is soft to the touch, wrinkle resistant, stain resistant, easy to clean, breathable, light in the warm summer months but cosy enough for a chilly day. We travel all over the world looking for the best possible cloths for suits for funeral directors and we use these fabrics to create stylish, breathable, comfortable, and affordable funeral director suits and funeral home staff uniforms.

    An off the rack dark suit for funerals may seem appealing to you when it comes to suits for funerals because it is generally a less expensive then getting a fully made to measure funeral suit for a funeral director or for someone who works in a funeral home. The truth is that although yes, most off the rack suits are cheaper than a hand tailored custom suit for funeral professionals, but after only a few weeks you begin to see why. Off the rack suits are not worth your hard earned money, but our hand tailored suits are. We do our best to make everything that we custom tailor affordable for you while still offering you garments that will not begin to fray after only one wash.

Funeral suits rose

    We are offering you the highest quality fabrics hand tailored into burial suits and exquisite staff uniforms for all your funeral home employees. It takes a lot of money to run a business, and with a funeral home sometimes the profit is a little slim, which is why we are offering you special prices on suits for funeral directors and staff uniforms for the dedicated staff team that keeps your funeral home working like a well-oiled machine. This also means that you as a funeral home director can start thinking about branding your business through unique funeral home staff uniforms that are made to measure perfectly for every member of staff without going over your budget. Just as style and comfort are a priority for us when it comes to funeral homes that order any of our elegant dark suits for funerals, affordability will also always be at the top of our list.
    Basically, yours is a one of a kind business that caters to people at a very difficult time in their lives. It is imperative to look professional, sober, gentle and compassionate on your job. As funeral home directors and funeral home staff you need funeral suits and uniforms that are understated yet elegant, sober yet stylish, affordable, and most importantly comfortable. As a world renowned custom tailoring company we at My Custom Tailor not only understand your needs but we will always do our very best to meet them exactly per your requirements and requests. We are constantly on the hunt for the latest and best possible suit styles out there for the working man. We always do our best to deliver the most fitting option for our clients.

Special prices to funeral directors

Special prices to funeral directors

    For a funeral director this would mean something stylish but not over the top so that it always remains a respectful suit. We do the exact same thing for your staff, we only source the finest fabrics to create gorgeous staff uniforms that are sophisticated for the staff in your home. As well as style, we definitely stress comfort. This is because we know that as someone who may run or work at a funeral home you are constantly on your feet and also moving things around, for example when you are preparing a venue for a funeral or memorial service. This means that you not only need a suit that looks good, but it needs to so comfortable that it almost feels like a second skin. You need a suit that fits so well you never have to worry about it busting open or feeling so heavy you mistaken it for a wet blanket. We offer you variety and quality all in one stop, a suit you can wear day in and day out. We also offer affordability. It is no secret that getting a custom bespoke suit could cost you a pretty penny or two. We believe that everyone deserves to own at least one made to measure suit, especially people who work in this form of formal clothing every day, it is easy for us to help you out when it comes to a reliable beautiful formal uniform for both men and women.

    We offer special prices to funeral directors for hand tailored elegant suits and also for men and women’s made to measure funeral home staff uniforms. Take advantage of our great offer of suits for funeral professionals custom tailored for comfort, style and affordability. Order yourself a great custom made garment today!

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