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Mens Dress Shirts And Dinner Suits

mens suits 


While the dress shirt functions as a backdrop for necktie, braces, jacket, and pocket square, there are two options in furnishing this stage. The first and by far the more popularly practiced method employ the dress shirt as a neutral foundation. As such, the elements are either harmonized upon it or one is emphasized over the others, such as the bold print tie against a solid white shirt. In this presentation, the shirt acts purely in a supporting role.

The alternative approach casts the dress shirt as leading man at center stage. This style emanated from England and is reasonably easy to execute if the principles governing its execution are well understood. In socially conscious London, an upper-class man would signal his membership in a particular club, regiment, or school through his choice of tie. Since these neckties' designs were fairly standard and limited in number (there being, after all, only so many organizations the wearer could claim as his own), he tended to punctuate his somber and predictable business ensembles with more strongly patterned dress shirt, the very reason that London's Jermyn Street became so renowned for gentlemen's dress shirts. In this approach, the tie and pocket square act as subordinate players to the shirt. A well-endowed collar was essential to convey the shirt's leading role and the wearer's loftier station, which is why English-bred dress shirt tend to have more prominent collars than their European or American counterparts.

As either of these approaches can project considerable sophistication, one last issue remains in guiding a man toward an informed dress shirt purchase. This concerns the stylistic consistency of the shirt's parts. For example, regardless of how beautiful its fabric or fit, a double-breasted jacket with a center vent remains a half-breed, a mixed metaphor, a sartorial mutt. A garment's detailing must be in character with its fabric, or else, like a pinstriped suit with patch pockets or flap pockets on a tuxedo, the wearable's integrity and classiness is compromised

Here are some general guidelines specific to the styling of men's dress shirts:

The smoother and more lustrous the fabric, the dressier the shirt. On the scale of relative formality, blue broadcloth ranks above blue end-on-end broadcloth which, in turn, ranks above blue pinpoint oxford, which in finer and dressier than regular blue oxford. But royal or queen's oxford, which is made of a two-ply yarn that gives the oxford weave greater sheen and a finer texture, is comparable to end-on-end broadcloth in its formality. The more white that shows in the ground of a check or stripe, the dressier the shirting.

Different collar styles also connote varying degrees of dress-up. Spread collars are generally dressier than straight point collar and become even more so with each degree of openness. White contrast collars dress up any shirt no matter its pattern or color, and should only be worn with a French cuff in either self fabric or contrasting white. However, a straight point contrast collar in white is as much a sartorial oxymoron as button cuffs on a dress shirt. White collars look even less authentically classy in collar models less open than a semi-spread, because their progenitors could only accommodate a four-in-hand if there was enough width to the collar opening. Tab, pinned, or eyelet collars can also give a fabric a more decorous look. If you see a blue oxford shirt decorated with a white spread collar or a button-down collar loitering on a dressy white ground English striping, avoid these mongrel offerings, for their questionable propriety will do nothing for yours.

Most of the criteria for purchasing a classically styled dress shirt have little to do with price or even the quality of the fabric. If a relatively inexpensive shirt made with a mediocre fabric has a collar that is flattering to your face and affords you the right fit, it will render greater value to you than a more expensively made shirt with neither of these attributes. Value has to do with longevity of wear, as ultimately, the most expensive clothes a man can buy are those that rarely come out of the closet.


If a man's suit ranks as the most articulate garment in the language of cloths, them his formal wear should guarantee sartorial eloquence. Due to the ritual surrounding the way it is worn and what accompanies it, formal wear's original spirit has been relatively well preserved. The simple combination of richly textures black accented by fresh white contrasts bespeaks refinement. And so it is that this last vestige of upper-class attire continues to live on in the dinner jacket, with its comforting certainly that all men look good in it.

Acquiring high-pedigree dinner clothes represents one of the more difficult challenges facing today's male consumer. That is not because, as with neckwear or sportswear, its variety can overwhelm one; rather it is because truly classic dinner clothes are so different from his normal business attire that the average man is ill prepared to accept it easily. This not only applies to commercially produced tuxedos, but to the majority of expensively hand-tailored ones offered in fine specially stores as well. In some cases, straying from the archetype particular trimmings is expensive because of the requirement of more labor. Often, however, its lack of pedigree is a function of simple ignorance resulting from not having been sufficiently exposed to the genuine article.

In spite of male evening clothes being highly formulaic and regimented by their very nature, opportunities to observe this particular masculine attire being worn correctly today are surprisingly rare. Mens wear designers offer their alternative renditions for each year's televised awards ceremonies. Most of the innovations they concoct are motivated by the desire for individuality and comfort, and the resulting confection usually turns out to be less than classic. The fact is that many men go to considerable effort to look special in a tuxedo when to do so is simply a matter of having the right information.

I feel that before one attempts to improvise in the ceremonial world of men's evening attire, it's important to understand the original design's intention and aesthetic logic. Trying to improve upon its ordered predictability in an effort to achieve a more personal expression is to be encouraged. But to create something unique and stylish, one should base such decisions on practical knowledge, rather than personal opinion or ephemeral fashion.

Since the culmination of the dinner jacket's final format in the late 1930s, nothing has improved upon the genius of its line or the refined aesthetics of its component furnishings. This does not mean that to own a fine tuxedo, one must have it cut or even tailored like those from the tuxedo's heyday. It does mean that its modeling and detailing must respect the exquisite relationship of form and function that were worked out through the collaboration of English tailors and shirt makers with their fastidiously dressed customers of that stylish era. No other period could have produces such a success, because each step of the new form's evolution was being compared to and measured by the perfection of the outfit it was intended to replace, the grand daddy of male refinement, the evening tailcoat and white tie. Not only did the tuxedo's final form end up projecting the same level of stature and class as its starched progenitor, it did so while providing considerably more comfort.

I will introduce briefly the dinner jacket's unusual history and its relationship to the tailcoat-and-white-tie ensemble, so that we may apply its rationale to selecting proper dinner clothes today. As W.Fowler said in his 1902 book, Matter of Manners, "The man who knows what to avoid is already the owner of style."


Black Tie, Tuxedo

As the name suggests, the original dinner jacket was to be exactly that, a less formal dining ensemble for use exclusively in the privacy of one's home or club. The original design was created during the mid-nineteenth century for the English prince who later became Edward VII. He decides there should be a comfortable alternative to the constricting swallowtail evening coat and bone-hard white-tie getup worn at the dinner table. The consensus is that the very first model of this shortened jacket must have been a rolled collar (shawl) double-breasted lounge suit in black worsted with grosgrain facing. The same design in velvet was worn as a smoking jacket by gentlemen at home, its grosgrain facings lifted from that of the tailcoat's lapels. Victorian ladies did not smoke and insisted any husband who did should confine this activity to his den. The smoking jacket could then be left there, in situ, so as not to radiate the noxious fumes around the rest of the house.

Edward's dinner jacket was admired by the husband of an American houseguest visiting him at Sandringham, his country estate, and the man asked the prince if he could copy it. Edward consented and the American brought the innovation back to his millionaires' club in Tuxedo park, New York. In 1886, one Griswald Lorillard, sporting his version to the club's autumn ball, scandalized his hostess and hastened his departure, but forever established the jacket's place alongside the tailcoat-and-white-tie ensemble.

From the point in the late nineteenth century up through the early days of the 1920s known as the golden age of the British gentleman, black-tie attire continued as an option at home or in a men's club. However, for an evening in public, white-tie remained the dress of choice by polite society. The 1920s produced men wear's first unofficial designer, the new arbiter of fashion, David, the Prince of Wales, who was later crowned as Edward VIII but is better known by the title he took after his 1936 abdication, the Duke of Windsor. Clothes-conscious and bit of a maverick, he was determined to throw off the stuff formally of his father's generation of court-ruled attire and make clothes more comfortable for himself and his fellow aristocrats.

The prince often arrived for dinner in dinner coat and black tie when everyone else was decked out in full tails. Sometimes he would wear a lounge-coat-like double-breasted dinner jacket with silk facings on the lapels or he would take the pique dress vest from the tailcoat outfit and wear it with a single-breasted dinner jacket. Before giving up the throne, he abdicated the boiled-front evening shirt and its separate stiff wing collar, replacing them with a soft, pleated-front dinner shirt and its attached soft turndown collar. He devised a backless a waistcoat with lapels to wear in warmer climes. Although he was not the first to wear it, he helped popularize midnight blue for dinner clothes, which by artificial light looked richer than black. By the end of the 1930s, with his international coterie of friends adopting such elegant comfort in public, the dinner jacket, an amalgam of the tailcoat and lounge suit, began to replace the swallowtail dress coat and white tie.

We invite you to check out some of our other useful custom tailoring related information:

funeral home

funeral home

    As a custom tailoring company for both men and women in all service industries, we take great pride in understanding every single one of our client’s needs. As the years have gone by we have seen more and more people in the funeral and burial industry coming in for hand tailored suits that are more work-friendly. At first glance a funeral home might not seem like the kind of place where looks and your clothing may matter, but the truth is that in any business appearance is important and as a funeral director you know that a funeral home is certainly no exception, and that formal suits for funerals are always part of the job’s dress code. When a client comes to you with the intention to lay a loved one to rest they expect you to not only look professional, but they also look to see if you have a sophistication about you because then they will know that they can trust you to ensure that a funeral for a loved one will never come off as tacky or unprofessional. Many funeral directors understand this and strive to always look their best in a classic dark suit for funerals. It is understandable why this has also meant giving up comfort, because working any job in a funeral home can be rather demanding and we all know that suits are not exactly made for a busy working man that needs to constantly be on the move. The good news is that we can offer you a little help with both your style and your comfort. As a custom tailors who have been in business for many decades with expert tailors, it is easy for us to understand your need for both style and comfort all while remaining respectful. Imagine yourself in a gorgeous hand tailored funeral suit and your reliable staff in dapper comfortable matching funeral home uniforms all made to measure by industry professionals specifically for them, and best of all at a price you can certainly afford. With our promise of the latest styles, all day comfort, and affordability when it comes to our suits for funeral professionals we also guarantee quality in every stylish formal suit that we hand tailor.

Classic dark suit for funerals

Classic dark suit for funerals

    As someone who works in a funeral home, your see your classic black suit as a type of funeral uniform that you need to wear to work. Many people might not understand just how much thought goes in to choosing the most stylish yet comfortable and respectful funeral home uniform or funeral suit as a funeral director. When it comes to finding stylish yet respectful formal suits for funerals, the truth is that there is a lot of pressure for you as a funeral director or a staff member at a funeral home to look at your very best always in the most appropriate manner.

    Most funeral directors opt for a traditional black funeral suit and their funeral home staff dress in the same classic dark suits for funerals. Not that there’s anything wrong with this classic look, it works and its always very simply to pull off, but that also means that it is all you ever see people in the funeral home and burial industry wearing. If you ever get tired of the classic look, you will be happy to hear that it is definitely not the only option you have when it comes to what you can wear to work. How about a little color? This might sound crazy, but we’re certainly not suggesting a bright orange suit or a lemon yellow tie. How about you add a little character to your work wardrobe by adding a few custom hand tailored suits in beautifully subtle colors such as dark greys, charcoal, and a slick dark navy. If you’re a little nervous about wearing a dark grey suit or navy suit, you could also try an accessory such as a handkerchief or tie instead. The really daring might just even pull off a lightly pinstripe suit.

    Of course, color is not the only style component to consider when picking out suits for funeral directors, the cut and style of the suit itself is important. A tuxedo is a popular mistake made by many for funerals, what people don’t understand is that a tuxedo suit is more of a festive piece than it will ever be for working a funeral. Another choice of suits that we would not recommend for someone who is on their feet all day is a double breasted suit or a full three piece suit. This is because although these two formal suit styles fit the part when it comes to mourning aesthetics, they may be a little harder to keep looking neat all day long as a funeral director.

    A style the you can always count on is the classic single breasted suit made up of a pair of hand tailored suit pants, a crisp white dress shirt, topped off with a classic single breasted suit jacket. A made to measure suit of such ravishing esteem will look great on you and the families you work with will appreciate you more for the extra effort you take to look good for them at such a difficult time. We can hand tailor stylish bespoke suits for funerals that not only look great on you, but are also tailored from the worlds finest and most breathable fabrics that are comfortable to wear any time of the year for long periods of extensive work.

Our elegantly designed and tailored suits for funeral professionals are so soft, comfortable, and easy to care for, you’ll be very happy you invested in this made to measure burial suit. As someone who has to spend most of their day on their feat doing all kinds of different tasks, you need a black funeral suit that is comfortable enough for you to work with ease. As long as the day gets, when you work a job that is not only asking a lot from you physically but also emotionally, you deserve to at the very least be dressed as comfortably as possible. It is definitely no secret at all that off the rack suits do not exactly offer the most comfort throughout the day. What you may not realise is that this is because most of the rack suits are cheaply manufactured with poor fabric quality as they are made for a working class that primarily sits at a desk all day and they are also not manufactured to last you any longer than a few months. This is why after a few trips to the cleaners your black funeral suit may begin to fray, the color may begin to fade, and the fit of the suit may also feel a little uncomfortable.

Burial suit and funeral suit

Burial suit and funeral suit

Suit hand tailored and made to measure funeral suit

Suit hand tailored and made to measure funeral suit

    Our solution for you is a suit hand tailored specifically for you and your lifestyle. We have been custom tailoring garments for industry professionals for three generations and we truly understand what fabrics work best for your busy work life. There is certainly always so much that goes into tailoring a great suit; like many things it takes years of experience to understand the very anatomy of the garment and how best it fits a client. This is what we do, for every dress shirt or formal suit jacket we stitch together we try to understand how this piece of clothing will fit into your life and how it will benefit you as a funeral director or as a funeral home staff member. Our best solution is that each piece of this made to measure suit should be made from a fabric that is soft to the touch, wrinkle resistant, stain resistant, easy to clean, breathable, light in the warm summer months but cosy enough for a chilly day. We travel all over the world looking for the best possible cloths for suits for funeral directors and we use these fabrics to create stylish, breathable, comfortable, and affordable funeral director suits and funeral home staff uniforms.

    An off the rack dark suit for funerals may seem appealing to you when it comes to suits for funerals because it is generally a less expensive then getting a fully made to measure funeral suit for a funeral director or for someone who works in a funeral home. The truth is that although yes, most off the rack suits are cheaper than a hand tailored custom suit for funeral professionals, but after only a few weeks you begin to see why. Off the rack suits are not worth your hard earned money, but our hand tailored suits are. We do our best to make everything that we custom tailor affordable for you while still offering you garments that will not begin to fray after only one wash.

Funeral suits rose

    We are offering you the highest quality fabrics hand tailored into burial suits and exquisite staff uniforms for all your funeral home employees. It takes a lot of money to run a business, and with a funeral home sometimes the profit is a little slim, which is why we are offering you special prices on suits for funeral directors and staff uniforms for the dedicated staff team that keeps your funeral home working like a well-oiled machine. This also means that you as a funeral home director can start thinking about branding your business through unique funeral home staff uniforms that are made to measure perfectly for every member of staff without going over your budget. Just as style and comfort are a priority for us when it comes to funeral homes that order any of our elegant dark suits for funerals, affordability will also always be at the top of our list.
    Basically, yours is a one of a kind business that caters to people at a very difficult time in their lives. It is imperative to look professional, sober, gentle and compassionate on your job. As funeral home directors and funeral home staff you need funeral suits and uniforms that are understated yet elegant, sober yet stylish, affordable, and most importantly comfortable. As a world renowned custom tailoring company we at My Custom Tailor not only understand your needs but we will always do our very best to meet them exactly per your requirements and requests. We are constantly on the hunt for the latest and best possible suit styles out there for the working man. We always do our best to deliver the most fitting option for our clients.

Special prices to funeral directors

Special prices to funeral directors

    For a funeral director this would mean something stylish but not over the top so that it always remains a respectful suit. We do the exact same thing for your staff, we only source the finest fabrics to create gorgeous staff uniforms that are sophisticated for the staff in your home. As well as style, we definitely stress comfort. This is because we know that as someone who may run or work at a funeral home you are constantly on your feet and also moving things around, for example when you are preparing a venue for a funeral or memorial service. This means that you not only need a suit that looks good, but it needs to so comfortable that it almost feels like a second skin. You need a suit that fits so well you never have to worry about it busting open or feeling so heavy you mistaken it for a wet blanket. We offer you variety and quality all in one stop, a suit you can wear day in and day out. We also offer affordability. It is no secret that getting a custom bespoke suit could cost you a pretty penny or two. We believe that everyone deserves to own at least one made to measure suit, especially people who work in this form of formal clothing every day, it is easy for us to help you out when it comes to a reliable beautiful formal uniform for both men and women.

    We offer special prices to funeral directors for hand tailored elegant suits and also for men and women’s made to measure funeral home staff uniforms. Take advantage of our great offer of suits for funeral professionals custom tailored for comfort, style and affordability. Order yourself a great custom made garment today!

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