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Wedding Tail Coats And Mens Tuxedo Suits

mens shirts 

WHITE TIE AND TAILS

The king of all male civilian garments is the evening tailcoat. Its long tails confer dignity while its starched white expanse of pique waistcoat, shirt, and tie flatter even the most rubicund of faces. The evening tailcoat has changed very little in the two hundred years since it was a riding coat. Its major alteration occurred when its double-breasted model was altered so it no longer buttoned in front. The single-breasted cutaway retained the button stance from the double-breasted model, as it does today. The outfit was, and still is, pretty straightforward, entailing very little choice in either color or detail. All that is needed is to tailor its established proportions to magically turn average men into movie stars.

The outfit consisted of white pique bow tie and matching stiff white pique-front evening shirt with attachable wing collar, worn with a single- or double-breasted pique vest, black worsted swallowtail coat, and matching trousers trimmed with two rows of braids on the outside of each leg. Black silk hose worn under patent leather oxfords or opera pumps with grosgrain bows completed the uniform. A white linen handkerchief with hand-rolled edges graces the breast pocket, while a colored carnation as boutonniere was optional. The only dressing errors egregious enough to scuttle its perfection were if the waistcoat's points extended below those of the tailcoat's front (a common occurrence today) or if the length of the coat's tails were not resting exactly in line with the back of the man's knees.

THE WHITE-TIE EVENING SHIRT

The pique-front evening shirt had a separate stiff wing collar whose shape evolves from turning down the corners of a stiff Beau Brummell fashion. The white pique bow tie was made to exact neck sizes, so that in addition to covering the exposed metal head of the front and back collar studs, the bow's intended width was fixed.

The wing collar sat high under the chin, giving extraordinary stature and definition to the face and chin. Its high back was to show a half inch above the jacket's collar, or a half inch higher than the black-tie's more comfortable turndown collar. The collar's wings helped to keep the pique bow in place by pressing it forward. The angle of the opening and height of the collar determined the style and size of the bow tie. The outer edges of the bow never finished outside the edges of the wing collar. This boilerplate guide for all bow-tie wear was established during that time and is respected even today.

Complementing the wing collar, the evening shirt's sleeve took single, stiff cuffs that, like the collar's height, were intended to show more than the softer French-style double cuffs of the black-tie dress shirt. The "boiled" shirtfront look took one or two studs, and the type of stud fastener determined the size and shape of the opening through which it connected with the stud's head, thus covering any evidence of the shirt's construction. The shirt's bosom, a biblike design in stiff linen or pique, was to fit so that its width did not extend under the trouser's suspenders, and its length was to stop short of the trouser's waistband. Because of its stiff front, if you sat down without it being secured to the trouser, it would billow out like a sail in full wind. A tab with buttonhole affixed the shirt to a special button in the trouser's waistband, keeping it in place and worry-free.

For all of this arithmetic to add up, the dress trouser needed to fit on the natural waist and not below it. This was accomplished with the help of suspenders (termed "braces" in the King's English). Without a high-waisted fit, the vest would not cover the bottom part of the shirt's bib and have its points finish above those of the tailcoat. With all of these studs, straps, and buttons needed to keep everything in place and in proportion, it may seem to be a form of Victorian bondage. In fact, when the clothes are tailored correctly, they are both comfortable to wear and move in graceful lockstep with the wearer.

Most of these design were transformed and worked into the classic tuxedo's final composition. Thus the stiff white-tie and "boiled" shirtfront gave way to the black-tie's softer lines without compromising its formal look, and so on. Let's move on and consider this information as it applies to today's black-tie dressing.

DINNER JACKET DOGMA - THE DETAILS

Weight

Most formal affairs are held indoors, Where central heating and air conditioning insure comfortable temperature. So most men prefer a fabric weight that provides comfort for more than a single season. Unfortunately, contrary to popular opinion, there is no such thing as a year-round weight; no cloth can both warm you in the frost of winter and cool you in the heat of summer. However, a fine worsted cloth of nine to ten ounces will get one through most climate-controlled environments rather handsomely. Since most affairs include dancing and dining, when in doubt, err on the lighter side. While your dinner jacket may never drape like the gravity-prone, fourteen-ounce ones worn in the old movies, you should not have to suffer in pursuit of elegance either. If you wear a dinner jacket frequently enough to justify owning more than one, a choice of weights will certainly expand your style and comfort quotient. You could drop to a lighter, seven-and-a-half- or eight-ounce fabric for summer wear and move up to a fuller eleven- or twelve-ounce weight for fall and winter.

Model

A man of any size, shape, or weight can look stylish in a double-breasted tuxedo; it just depends on how it is cut. Both single- and double-breasted models are equally authentic and correct. The single-breasted model in worn unbuttoned, requiring its exposed waistband to be covered by a cummerbund or dress vest, and providing more opportunities for accessories and thus versatility. The double-breasted model relieves you of this additional layer around the waist, but the jacket looks better buttoned when the wearer is standing. Men tend to unbutton it when seated, so this model ends up being fussed with more than its single-breasted counterpart. A double-breasted dinner coat is never worn with a vest or cummerbund underneath.

Color

Black is the norm, while midnight blue with black trimmings is also worn, Midnight blue comes across less green and more rich in artificial light than black; however, such a garment is rarely offered in the ready-to-wear world. In America, between the beginning of the summer season, June 1, and the end of august, an off-white or tan-colored dinner jacket may be worn. On trips to the South or warmer climates. These light-colored jacket are perfectly acceptable throughout the year.

Lapels

Only shawl or peaked lapels are used for dinner clothes. Peaked derive its heritage from the tailcoat, shawl from the smoking jacket. The shawl lapel produces a softer, old-world image and tends to be used on alternative tuxedo jackets such as the white summer dinner jacket, velvet smoking coat, or more idiosyncratic ones in wool tartan or cotton madras. Men with round faces or less muscular physiques generally look smarter in the uplifting, sharper-angles, pointed-end peaked lapel. Both lapels possess the sweep and self-importance that helps differentiate the black-tie coat from the less formal suit jacket.

A dinner jacket with notch lapels is a sartorial oxymoron, like sporting a dinner shirt with a button-down collar. (Actually, I've seen this done as a kind of tongue-in-cheek old-boy eccentricity.) Not only does this sportier coat lapel design lack the aesthetic logic and refinement required of formal wear, its casualness makes the rest of the ensemble look common and less dignified.

All dinner jacket lapels require a working buttonhole on the breast pocket side for a boutonniere. Many times, one finds himself in a wedding party or other official circumstances as an usher where he is asked to wear a flower. There is nothing more sophomoric-looking than having to pin one on the lapel. It makes this one flourish of tailcoat elan appear almost clown like.

Custom-made dinner clothes pay even more attention to the buttonhole area by sewing a loop as a stem keeper under the lapel. You could ask the store if they could cut a buttonhole in the dinner jacket's lapel, although they will probably discourage you. It takes a qualified tailor to correctly determine its proper location and to execute a well-finished buttonhole through the silk-faced lapel. It is done all the time in custom clothes, however, and even if the buttonhole is machine-made, the boutonniere will cover it up. The buttonhole should be no less than one inch in length.

Pockets

The tuxedo pocket must be dressy, yet simple. There is really only one type that should appear on the dinner jacket and that is the jetted or double besom pocket. Besom pockets can be of self fabric, as on a dressy day suit, or trimmed in the lapel's silk facing. Flap pockets belong with notch lapel; neither were ever intended for formal clothes. While flap pockets are cheaper to make (as are notch lapels), they also add a layer of cloth to the thip, and are thus neither slimming nor simple enough for such elegant apparel. Just as you would not expect to find peaked lapel on a tweed sports jacket or cuffs on dinner trousers, you should not see pocket flabs on a dinner jacket.

Vents

The original dinner clothes were made vent less and then later offered with side vents. Vent less jackets are more slimming while side vents provide easier access to trouser pockets and are more comfortable to sit in, something one does a lot at formal occasions. Single vents are fine for horseback riding, as they open up, providing comfort while in the saddle. Unfortunately, They also open up when a man puts his hand in his coat or trouser pocket, exposing his back side as well as a patch of dress shirt. Single vents are acceptable on single-breasted coats, never on double-breasted ones, and with their sporting heritage, they compromise the intended formality of the tuxedo.

Trimmings

Because grosgrain or ribbed silk was originally used on tailcoats, this style of trimming has always been considered a bit more refined than the shinier, more theatrical satin. In the early days of off-the-peg English tuxedos, many carried satin facings, so the ribbed silk came to be identified with the Savile Row-made tuxedo. The best facing are made of pure silk, while less expensive ones contain a synthetic component. Shawl lapels look fine in satin or grosgrain. Grosgrain facings permit some contrast in textures for the bow tie, while satin facings demand the bow tie to match which, especially if not hand-tied, will produce a more contrived effect.

The dinner jacket's buttons can be plain or covered in the lapel's facing. Some of the more old-world custom tailor cover their dress buttons in a fine, woven silk design, which at first may look a bit fancy, but can be quite subtle and distinguished. Like the tailcoat and better lounge suit, the jacket sleeves are to be finished with four buttons, their edges touching. Forever buttons is not dressy enough, more is frivolous.


We invite you to check out some of our other useful custom tailoring related information:



funeral home

funeral home

    As a custom tailoring company for both men and women in all service industries, we take great pride in understanding every single one of our client’s needs. As the years have gone by we have seen more and more people in the funeral and burial industry coming in for hand tailored suits that are more work-friendly. At first glance a funeral home might not seem like the kind of place where looks and your clothing may matter, but the truth is that in any business appearance is important and as a funeral director you know that a funeral home is certainly no exception, and that formal suits for funerals are always part of the job’s dress code. When a client comes to you with the intention to lay a loved one to rest they expect you to not only look professional, but they also look to see if you have a sophistication about you because then they will know that they can trust you to ensure that a funeral for a loved one will never come off as tacky or unprofessional. Many funeral directors understand this and strive to always look their best in a classic dark suit for funerals. It is understandable why this has also meant giving up comfort, because working any job in a funeral home can be rather demanding and we all know that suits are not exactly made for a busy working man that needs to constantly be on the move. The good news is that we can offer you a little help with both your style and your comfort. As a custom tailors who have been in business for many decades with expert tailors, it is easy for us to understand your need for both style and comfort all while remaining respectful. Imagine yourself in a gorgeous hand tailored funeral suit and your reliable staff in dapper comfortable matching funeral home uniforms all made to measure by industry professionals specifically for them, and best of all at a price you can certainly afford. With our promise of the latest styles, all day comfort, and affordability when it comes to our suits for funeral professionals we also guarantee quality in every stylish formal suit that we hand tailor.



Classic dark suit for funerals

Classic dark suit for funerals

    As someone who works in a funeral home, your see your classic black suit as a type of funeral uniform that you need to wear to work. Many people might not understand just how much thought goes in to choosing the most stylish yet comfortable and respectful funeral home uniform or funeral suit as a funeral director. When it comes to finding stylish yet respectful formal suits for funerals, the truth is that there is a lot of pressure for you as a funeral director or a staff member at a funeral home to look at your very best always in the most appropriate manner.

    Most funeral directors opt for a traditional black funeral suit and their funeral home staff dress in the same classic dark suits for funerals. Not that there’s anything wrong with this classic look, it works and its always very simply to pull off, but that also means that it is all you ever see people in the funeral home and burial industry wearing. If you ever get tired of the classic look, you will be happy to hear that it is definitely not the only option you have when it comes to what you can wear to work. How about a little color? This might sound crazy, but we’re certainly not suggesting a bright orange suit or a lemon yellow tie. How about you add a little character to your work wardrobe by adding a few custom hand tailored suits in beautifully subtle colors such as dark greys, charcoal, and a slick dark navy. If you’re a little nervous about wearing a dark grey suit or navy suit, you could also try an accessory such as a handkerchief or tie instead. The really daring might just even pull off a lightly pinstripe suit.

    Of course, color is not the only style component to consider when picking out suits for funeral directors, the cut and style of the suit itself is important. A tuxedo is a popular mistake made by many for funerals, what people don’t understand is that a tuxedo suit is more of a festive piece than it will ever be for working a funeral. Another choice of suits that we would not recommend for someone who is on their feet all day is a double breasted suit or a full three piece suit. This is because although these two formal suit styles fit the part when it comes to mourning aesthetics, they may be a little harder to keep looking neat all day long as a funeral director.

    A style the you can always count on is the classic single breasted suit made up of a pair of hand tailored suit pants, a crisp white dress shirt, topped off with a classic single breasted suit jacket. A made to measure suit of such ravishing esteem will look great on you and the families you work with will appreciate you more for the extra effort you take to look good for them at such a difficult time. We can hand tailor stylish bespoke suits for funerals that not only look great on you, but are also tailored from the worlds finest and most breathable fabrics that are comfortable to wear any time of the year for long periods of extensive work.

Our elegantly designed and tailored suits for funeral professionals are so soft, comfortable, and easy to care for, you’ll be very happy you invested in this made to measure burial suit. As someone who has to spend most of their day on their feat doing all kinds of different tasks, you need a black funeral suit that is comfortable enough for you to work with ease. As long as the day gets, when you work a job that is not only asking a lot from you physically but also emotionally, you deserve to at the very least be dressed as comfortably as possible. It is definitely no secret at all that off the rack suits do not exactly offer the most comfort throughout the day. What you may not realise is that this is because most of the rack suits are cheaply manufactured with poor fabric quality as they are made for a working class that primarily sits at a desk all day and they are also not manufactured to last you any longer than a few months. This is why after a few trips to the cleaners your black funeral suit may begin to fray, the color may begin to fade, and the fit of the suit may also feel a little uncomfortable.

Burial suit and funeral suit

Burial suit and funeral suit






Suit hand tailored and made to measure funeral suit

Suit hand tailored and made to measure funeral suit



    Our solution for you is a suit hand tailored specifically for you and your lifestyle. We have been custom tailoring garments for industry professionals for three generations and we truly understand what fabrics work best for your busy work life. There is certainly always so much that goes into tailoring a great suit; like many things it takes years of experience to understand the very anatomy of the garment and how best it fits a client. This is what we do, for every dress shirt or formal suit jacket we stitch together we try to understand how this piece of clothing will fit into your life and how it will benefit you as a funeral director or as a funeral home staff member. Our best solution is that each piece of this made to measure suit should be made from a fabric that is soft to the touch, wrinkle resistant, stain resistant, easy to clean, breathable, light in the warm summer months but cosy enough for a chilly day. We travel all over the world looking for the best possible cloths for suits for funeral directors and we use these fabrics to create stylish, breathable, comfortable, and affordable funeral director suits and funeral home staff uniforms.

    An off the rack dark suit for funerals may seem appealing to you when it comes to suits for funerals because it is generally a less expensive then getting a fully made to measure funeral suit for a funeral director or for someone who works in a funeral home. The truth is that although yes, most off the rack suits are cheaper than a hand tailored custom suit for funeral professionals, but after only a few weeks you begin to see why. Off the rack suits are not worth your hard earned money, but our hand tailored suits are. We do our best to make everything that we custom tailor affordable for you while still offering you garments that will not begin to fray after only one wash.


Funeral suits rose



    We are offering you the highest quality fabrics hand tailored into burial suits and exquisite staff uniforms for all your funeral home employees. It takes a lot of money to run a business, and with a funeral home sometimes the profit is a little slim, which is why we are offering you special prices on suits for funeral directors and staff uniforms for the dedicated staff team that keeps your funeral home working like a well-oiled machine. This also means that you as a funeral home director can start thinking about branding your business through unique funeral home staff uniforms that are made to measure perfectly for every member of staff without going over your budget. Just as style and comfort are a priority for us when it comes to funeral homes that order any of our elegant dark suits for funerals, affordability will also always be at the top of our list.
    Basically, yours is a one of a kind business that caters to people at a very difficult time in their lives. It is imperative to look professional, sober, gentle and compassionate on your job. As funeral home directors and funeral home staff you need funeral suits and uniforms that are understated yet elegant, sober yet stylish, affordable, and most importantly comfortable. As a world renowned custom tailoring company we at My Custom Tailor not only understand your needs but we will always do our very best to meet them exactly per your requirements and requests. We are constantly on the hunt for the latest and best possible suit styles out there for the working man. We always do our best to deliver the most fitting option for our clients.



Special prices to funeral directors

Special prices to funeral directors

    For a funeral director this would mean something stylish but not over the top so that it always remains a respectful suit. We do the exact same thing for your staff, we only source the finest fabrics to create gorgeous staff uniforms that are sophisticated for the staff in your home. As well as style, we definitely stress comfort. This is because we know that as someone who may run or work at a funeral home you are constantly on your feet and also moving things around, for example when you are preparing a venue for a funeral or memorial service. This means that you not only need a suit that looks good, but it needs to so comfortable that it almost feels like a second skin. You need a suit that fits so well you never have to worry about it busting open or feeling so heavy you mistaken it for a wet blanket. We offer you variety and quality all in one stop, a suit you can wear day in and day out. We also offer affordability. It is no secret that getting a custom bespoke suit could cost you a pretty penny or two. We believe that everyone deserves to own at least one made to measure suit, especially people who work in this form of formal clothing every day, it is easy for us to help you out when it comes to a reliable beautiful formal uniform for both men and women.

    We offer special prices to funeral directors for hand tailored elegant suits and also for men and women’s made to measure funeral home staff uniforms. Take advantage of our great offer of suits for funeral professionals custom tailored for comfort, style and affordability. Order yourself a great custom made garment today!





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